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Old 06-20-2013, 08:07 PM   #11
wgc68nyc
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another thing: the ac condenser has the honeycomb as the same orientation than the radiator right?
The pic is pre AC installation so none of it is picture. Here is a video of the gap. The trans cooler has been moved and this is pre fan #2

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Old 06-20-2013, 08:23 PM   #12
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Here is a video of the gap.

ah ok, thank you now I can see.

mmm three mass radiators... yep maybe it could be a problem.

is it overheating whatever the AC is off or on right?

I don't know if you have the plastic undercover, if so you could redirect a bit of airflow between the condenser and the radiator.

By the way, for what I understood, it's overheating only on certain speeds but not on idle right?
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:26 PM   #13
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ah ok, thank you now I can see.

mmm three mass radiators... yep maybe it could be a problem.

is it overheating whatever the AC is off or on right?

I don't know if you have the plastic undercover, if so you could redirect a bit of airflow between the condenser and the radiator.

By the way, for what I understood, it's overheating only on certain speeds but not on idle right?
Runs warm at higway speeds with ac off or on. At idle so slow speed with both fans the temp drops rapidly. Dont know what you mean by plastic undercover but I have blocked off some gaps.
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:44 PM   #14
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Dont know what you mean by plastic undercover but I have blocked off some gaps.
Sorry for my English tech terminology

on the bottom of the engine bay, usually there is a plastic cover to close the engine bay from outside. this part is fundamental for the aerodynamics on the cooling airflow. But I'm not sure if these models still have this.

BTW you need to follow up two path: one is to check the waterpump but now that I see the radiators I could follow up better this one.
it seems at high speeds, it creates a turbulence that slow down the airflow creating a counter pressure. I know it sounds too much sophisticated but it's easy to change the radiator effect using a wrong airflow

if you have a car thermometer with in/out temp, you can use it to put the sensor before the ac condenser, between and after the radiator to see if it's something related to that or if it's something on the pump.
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Old 07-01-2013, 01:10 AM   #15
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So a quick update

Did a oil change and went all out and got Royal Purple. Car runs slightly cooler but still gets around 200-205 in 80 degree weather with humidity doing highway speeds. The dual fans work great. With both of them off the engine cools to the point that I hit the temp where thermostat would close.

Burped the coolant a few days ago on a hill...waited till the the therm opened up and ran it. Coolant expanded almost to the point where it overflowed. Dont know if I should have done it for longer. Could it be overfilled? I have a overflow thingy but its always empty.


Couple of thoughts/possibilities:

- Timing could be off? She runs very smooth and has a Pertronix 2 with the resistor wire bypassed.

- If my termostat was in backwards wouldn't the highway pressure be pushing the termstat closed or partially close?

- Could the carb be tuned to thin? Again we are talking in the 2100-2400 rpms and it take a while for the heat to build (does not overheat but AC is off)

- I had my torque convert stall speed increased (2200 I think) so probably getting some slippage? Trans temp in the deep pan rarely goes over 150 and I have a cooler but could the slippage be causing extra heat.

- Heat builds quicker on uphills which couple with a hipo oil pump and a regular pan could the engine be pumpin the oil too quick while the rest slides to the back? Again it seems a little weird that I would need a baffle for street driving.

- I still thing the primary issue is probably the AC condensor blocks the air and there is too big a gap. Anyone with AC please let me know how close you have your condensor to the rad. I can move them together but its going to be a pain.
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Old 07-01-2013, 02:42 AM   #16
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What's wrong with 200-205? That's fine, most new engines run around 215.

If the temp keeps climbing up in hotter weather or going up hills and can't be kept under 230, then your radiator either sucks, is clogged, or is damaged.

I run ~200* when it's 20* outside.
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:18 AM   #17
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another thing: the ac condenser has the honeycomb as the same orientation than the radiator right?
Compressor has its own belt

PICS HERE
https://picasaweb.google.com/1025608...eat=directlink

I do not think the fins match and again there is like a 2inch space between the rad and the condensor

I should mention I have two temp gauges

The center one is coming from a port right at the thermostatand will creep up to 210ish (maybe go over) without the AC on highway driving (I have a switch so it can read the trans or the coolant)

Click the image to open in full size.

The normal gauge which come off the manifold closer to the carb will end up 75-80% to the hot side which is why I am concerned it is running warm but not overheating.

Click the image to open in full size.

I am concerned in 95 degree weather it will be worse and forget about flipping the AC switch.
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:18 AM
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