BabyHuey

Hello.... I jsut ran a compression check on my 302 in my 65. I'm a little concerned, but think it will make it thru the summer. My numbers are

162....145
160....162
155....162
175....152

I'm not sure of the year as I can't find the damn casting numbers. What is the usual gap for the plugs? It's a points system.

My next question is, will a Edelbrock RPM air gap or RPM fit under the hood of my 65?

Should I get a 500 or 600cfm carb? Engine is stock with a 2 barrel currently. I plan to go to another 347 in the future though. Just deciding on EFI or carb. I know very little about Carbs

Thanks

Starfury

The 145 number is a little low compared to the rest. Not catastrophically low by any means, just out of the expected range. Did you do the test with the engine cold? If so, do it again after warming up the car and post the numbers.

The 500CFM carb would better suit a plain jane 302. You'll see better throttle response out of the smaller carb. The 600 would be better for the stroker in the future, but you can always upgrade the carb later, after you build/buy the motor.

BabyHuey

Engine was cold. You think being warm would change the readings much? As far as the carb, i'm just trying to get parts I can use on the build if I go that route. Any advice on the Intake? Plug gap?

Starfury

Yes, being warm can change the readings. Definitely do a hot test and see what happens. I bet they even out a bit.

Parts for a stroker build are not going to be the same as parts for a stock 302. A Performer 289 intake and 500CFM carb would do well on the engine you have. The stroker will want something akin to a Weiand Stealth or Performer RPM and a 600CFM carb.

Either upgrade the motor you have with parts that will compliment each other, or save up and build the stroker the way you want it. Don't try to do both at the same time; you'll just end up with a poor-performing motor and less money when it comes time to build the stroker.

kenash

Hi,
Check the Edelbrock site as they have the spec on those intakes. However, I'm running a RPM with 1/2" separator. This setup was very close but did not touch when running a 680 Holly, with a 3" K&N. I think I recall the air gap & RPM were the same when I checked The Eddy site. As far as the plug gap goes, it's somewhat dependent on the overall condition of your secondary ignition system. But, without checking my books, I'd say .025-.030?
I haven't run a points system since the 80s.

Diputado

Stock plug gap is .035. The Motorcraft BSF-42 is a good choice of plug for a SBF. Without knowing the year model, pull one of the current plugs to see if they are 18mm or 14mm thread diameter. ALL the 60's vintage SBFs used 18mm plugs, but during the late 70's, I believe they changed to 14mm.

I tend to agree with Starfury....if you're going to do that 347 anytime soon, why spend the money now on the 302 that you will definitely need later? But...BUT...if you do, then I would go with a good dual-plane intake and nothing bigger than a 600 cfm carb. Summitt Racing has Weiand Stealths for about $176 and the Holley model 1850C 600 cfm for about $265...so a fairly economical way to really improve your induction system. In fact, this is the combo I have now on a 289 on my '65. I'm running a 1/2" phenolic spacer and the hood closes just fine. I think if I used a 1"spacer, though, I might have clearance issues.

clowe1965

Leave the two barrel alone for now and save up.

Warming up the car allows the metal to expand, getting a tighter seal and thus providing higher pressure. Also it is a better indicator of the health of the engine, as you're not running it when it is cold.

BabyHuey

I plan to run a check after it's warm. Been side tracked with the Harley since and trying to decide what to do (5.0L EFI or 347 Carb).

Excuse my Ignorance here, but when you say a "Dual Plane" Intake. Are you referring to something like an "Air Gap"? Where there is a seperation between the oil valley cover and the Air/Fuel intake?

Also I have to do something if I want to keep driving her till I do the Engine. The current 2 barrel is junk and it smokes like a bonfire.

Starfury

You could rebuild it. The factory autolite carbs are about as simple as they come.

clowe1965

Dual plane manifolds will be specified in the product description when you purchase it. Single planes are basically a giant box with ports in it, allowing the air to go straight from the carb to the intake ports without anything blocking it. Dual plane has, in laymans terms, baffling that causes the air to take a longer path resulting in a better low to mid range rpm power band.