4reboy

Thanks for that explanation, that makes total sense. I definitely don't want a truck motor!

FMX 3-speed and factory 9", I don't remember what gearing but I have a feeling it's a 3.73? (I can't find a picture of my door tag or marti report at the moment). It would be the gearing that came with the M Code Mach 1 (351 4 barrel)

67mustang302

Double check to be sure of the gear ratio, since it has a somewhat large impact on what cam you should run.

If you do start building some power though, there are some things you want to invest money in. Suspension, brakes, fuel system, and oiling system. Transmission also if it isn't set up to handle some power.

The thing with cars, they're like a chain...only as strong or as fast as the weakest link.

4reboy

I just checked my door tag when I got home, I was wrong, the car has a 3:25:1 rear end. Would these lower gears mean I would need a cam that would make more torque to get off the line? I eventually plan to put a T5 and a locking rear end in the car, but that won't be happening in the immediate future.

I agree that the car is only as strong as the weakest link, plenty experience with that. The transmission doesn't have many miles on the rebuild and FMX's are build like tanks, brakes are in good working order, and the suspension is all rebuilt (shelby drop, roller rockers, 1" sway bar, 4.5 leaf rear springs, etc.). I could probably take advantage of an electric fuel pump to upgrade that system.

67mustang302

Taller gear means a softer cam. Not necessarily bad for you, still a blast to drive; but not so much power that you break stuff or get yourself into trouble.

Also it means cheaper, because less power and less rpm (which means less valvetrain).

The reason I say a good fuel and oiling system, is that a problem with either one can destroy an engine.

If you stay carb'd, might as well stay with a mechanical pump for now, a PROPER electrical setup is expensive to do right. Either way, use good lines; braided stuff with AN fittings, you get rid of leak points and create a system that's hard to damage and lasts longer.

Depending on how you plan to drive it, invest in some kind of a baffled oil pan, especially something with more capacity.

4reboy

Good tips.

So then it looks like I have two comp cam choices for the 210cc Victor Jr. Heads:

XE268H

• 1600-5800rpm range
• 2200rpm+ stall recommended

XE274H

• 1800-6000rpm range
• 2500+ stall recommended

My car doesn't have a stall so maybe the XE268H would be better? What does everyone think? Would either provide clearance issues? Edelbrock claims their victor jr. is compatible with OE valve train and pistons, but the cam clearly won't be OE.

67mustang302

I'd go with a hyd roller if you have the money.

Part of what cam you get will also depend on the heads you can find, what valvetrain it has.

4reboy

The heads I'm looking at are the Edelbrock 210cc Victor Jr.'s

I'd prefer to put the $300 savings into a better intake since I don' plan on redlining it too often, unless that type of cam is particularly better for what I'm doing. This cam mentions it works well with my gearing and stock converter:

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=895&sb=2

67mustang302

Flat tappets get all pissy these days with modern oils, and have to be methodically broken in. Roller gets rid of that, provides more power and better mileage for the same cam specs. But then you are spending more money etc.

The Vic. Jr heads are decent, so they'll like a bit more cam better and some gear. Alternatively, you could get a custom grind for a bit more money (flat or roller) that will work with your gear, heads, vehicle weight etc.

http://www.flowtechinduction.com/

Send Ed an email, he's the SBF wiz bang cam expert.

Regardless, I'd keep the engine limited to 6k max shift point, until you're ready to spend serious money later down the road.

Edit: the 270 roller is a decent cam too. Check to make sure of total cost for lifters as well (I prefer link bar style).

bartaqtb

Come on, you can do better.

boogerschnot

Hmmm.... Vic Jr? Maybe you could drive mine just to see if there is much of a difference from what you already have. Ive got 3.70 gears, EDL performer cam and intake.. I feel like I want more out of my car. But I remember when I first changed out the intake and cam, I felt like I had a beast compared to the 2bbl stocker..

I found a guy on CL in Miramar that puts together rear ends for about $500.. ish.. depending on what you want and what you give him to start. 3.25's should be just fine with your FMX though.

(none of this probably helped.. lol)