ClesusChrist

Hey All,

I am currently looking to pick up a 65 to 70 mustang coupe, most likely around 67....love fastbacks but want to try to spend around $10 to $12k max and as such am looking mainly at 80k to 100k mileage range (barring a few exceptions) and while I know V8's have a pretty long lifespan I am wondering what kind of common problems most of the mustangs this age tend to have around this mileage. Obviously I realize this varies with how the car was cared for but I want to get a general sense of what potential issues I am looking at so I could be preemptive and start replacing certain parts (i.e. is radiator likely to go, should I be looking to replace water pump, etc.). Any input is appreciated! Thanks!

67mustang302

It's too hard to tell. And are you talking total vehicle mileage? Or just powertrain?

Anything ranging from engine, transmission, diff, suspension, chassis, electrical. Depending on where it was kept, how often it was driven and maintained etc.

If you're buying a never been restored or restomodded classic, look for a car with a good chassis, and then expect to replace everything else.

ClesusChrist

I assumed that there would be a range of potential problems, was more wondering if the classic stangs had anything in particular they were known for having issues at high mileage or in general anything at that mileage that's more a priority to replace than anything else.

I am not 100% sure but I would assume total vehicle mileage, obviously when I go to actually buy the car I will be able to tell if there have been parts replaced (i.e. - transmission, driveshaft, etc). In terms of spotting a solid chassis, how would I go about that in short of taking to my mechanic and having him put the car on a lift and inspect it? Anything in terms of visual walk around and test drive to pick up on clues there's something off with the chassis?

67mustang302

Is it straight, is it rusted? Does it creak and pop when you drive it (indicating cracks in the chassis someplace)?

cashbgtp97

Clesus,
I am watching my buddy's 67 coupe while he's on deployment. he asked me to take care of it and fix her up if i find things wrong with her (he's sending the parts/money for the repairs). I am wondering the same thing, but I think the best thing to do might be to find someone local that can take a look at it with you. I am working on getting in touch with some local folks here to do a good general inspection to see what is wrong with it. I have never owned an older car either so i'll put some questions i have about it on here, maybe you might have similar questions:

He told me when I first start the car it has to warm up before I should drive it around or else it will stall out. I first started it and it just stalled without me putting a little gas to you for a while so I adjusted the idle screw to give it more throttle when it's sitting in park. Unfortunately i think this messed with the air/gas mixture because now she blows out stinky blueish/white smoke out the exhaust. is this from increasing the idle screw or is there another issue with this?

she leaks oil (he told me the oil pan screw just needs an o-ring)

she leaks water into the cabin from under the engine (drops in right next to the vent on the far left). my base auto hobby shop told me it's likely the seal in the engine bay or the seal is clogged with debree and is flooding into the cabin. also going to check the ventilation to make sure there isn't any tears.

i'm not sure if this is normal but when i am driving around and stop at a stop sign she shakes pretty violently at idle in drive.

i have no idea what type of engine is in it. i guess i could look under the hood but i'm lazy? he told me it's a 289, 4.0L inline-6? it's has an automatic transimission. anyone know a specific model number/engine description to help when i'm looking up parts?

why the hell is there no right side mirror?!?!? guess they were better at turning their heads than we are now..?

passenger side window regulator is shot (gears are grinded down). he is sending me the part and i'm replacing that (figured that one out kind of on my own).

there is plenty of cosmetic problems on the inside, things loose, wires dangling, this and that. the trim on the hood needs a screw right in the middle (i feel like i'm going to break it off when i pop the hood)

as for things with the engine i really don't know anything about this engine. it feels sluggish when i drive it and i'm afraid to push her any more than just grandma driving. he did tell me that if i drive it and stop somewhere real quick i should leave it running, take the spare key and lock the doors to avoid re-starting it more than necassary. he said the starter wheel (i think that's what he said) is going bad as well as something else that has to do with the starter and the flywheel is going to need to be replaced eventually.

the passenger side door gets stuck when it's opened (by stuck i mean you have to shove it pretty hard to close it). i believe he's sending me the part to fix that, something about a door handle roller pin? i can see where it's rusted and gets stuck, but it looks more like the door and could just use some wd-40

hope i didn't hijack your post! just throwing some questions and things out there that you migth be experiencing as well!

-cash

LynnBob Mustang

With old cars mileage is kind of moot at this point.
Even if the car only has 10-15K on it and it has rotted or dried out rubber parts, seals, bushings, etc. they need to be replaced anyway regardless of mileage.

At this point, anything mechanical is suspect to break or fail just due to age and you can expect it and should be looked into.

Until old parts are replaced It is not a matter if it will fail, just when. That when is going to be the least you want it to.

Lynn

ClesusChrist

Thanks for all the input, and Cash I don't mind you adding that in at all these might be issues I run into when I pick mine up. If I bought one that does not have A/C and ultimately decide that I want to have that installed anyone have any idea what the cost is? I know you can buy kits for anywhere from $1k to $1.5k but what's the actual installation cost?

cashbgtp97

i'd suggest installing it yourself. nothing more entertaining than yelling at an inanimate object for not allowing installation to be as simple as a flicking a switch. :-D

MonsterBilly

to be honest, it sounds like you have no mechanical abilities what so ever. You must remember that these cars are nearly 50 years old. although they were made with good steel, they were also made to be cheap economical cars. Any car you pic will have a host of issues.
doing your homework now as you are is a good thing. however at almost 50 years old there is no way to speculate what shape any car will be in. Here are things to look to determine whether you have a good car or not.

frame rails- (look for rust first not surface rust but rotting rust) a good way to check is poking it with a small screwdriver and see if it goes all the way through

condition of cowl- this is the area under the vent on top of the car behind the hood ( ford rarely covered all the steel in there with paint. so over the years they rust out. way too much work for a new mechanic to repair. it is a massive job) pour water in the vent to see if it leaks on the floor inside the car. if it leaks then its No Good!

Door/Fender alignment- if the doors and the fenders do not line up correctly this can be a sign of damage. now they will not be perfect unless it has been restored. usually they were off a little from the factory.

rust -around suspension parts and rear leaf spring bolts. this is not a total deterrant however it can add a lot of time and cussing when completing a repair

Wiring-some people get it some dont. if your not the kind of guy that can wire a car, make sure its in good shape. look for areas where it is spliced or things being disconnected.

other than these, most anything can be repaired in a garage over a weekend with the help of an auto parts store and the internet.