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Old 08-29-2013, 10:42 PM   #11
Coupe
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Oh, that. I guess I could have worded it differently, but to be fair, as written it was bad advice.

I was more concerned with someones car metal warping than your feelings I guess.
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:43 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasAxMan View Post
BTW, if you don't have experience, or use caution, you shouldn't attempt any restoration procedures.

No need for a snotty, dismissive tone.
I did find this to be snotty and dismissive BTW. I guess everyone that comes here asking advice should just "not do it" then....
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:51 PM   #13
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I could have worded it better, but it is good advice. The OP original question indicated he/she had some skills.

No disrespect, you're car looks good from pics. You've given good advice on this forum.

But, I stand by my advice and think it is the BEST advice for someone in his situation with his/her advertised skills.
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:25 AM   #14
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An interesting addition given some of the feedback provided...I spoke with one of the guys at RediStrip yesterday about the process and what they recommend regarding washing, priming, etc.

In short, he indicated that their wash process is a second dip, which sounds appropriate given the tight areas the first dip would get into. The interesting part was that they don't recommend the body be primed for over a week after it is stripped. He indicated the extra time provides for additional drying/evaporation of anything left over from the dips.

That seemed completely counter-intuitive to me. However, since this is my first time through, maybe you guys can offer your experiences: won't the car flash rust almost immediately? If left in a mostly non-climate-controlled work area won't it most definitely start with some surfance rust?

Second question regarding the seam sealing...I have read a couple places that seam sealing over primer is best done with a metal-etching primer. Coupe, you mention seam sealing over epoxy primer. Any thoughts on the differences?

Just for clarity on the side conversation, I am a 'he'. I have limited skills in this stuff, but I am not afraid to fail.

Last edited by neptune2528; 08-30-2013 at 07:27 AM.
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Old 09-01-2013, 10:46 PM   #15
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Sorry I haven't been back to this.

I now know you are a he.

I still suggest blaster over dipping, because you can take care of problems as you find them. Use some common sense with the pressure and you'll be fine. If you can handle a quarter replacement, shouldn't be any big deal.

Strip the outer panels with aircraft stripper and save the cost of stripping for fun stuff.

Remember, Foose never dips cars ...
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Old 09-02-2013, 07:51 AM   #16
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you guys should see how many parts ive had to fix by people deciding to blast their cars..i remember one trunklid a guy brought in for an impala you could feel an outline of the inner bracing after the customer blasted it... honestly chemical aircraft stripper for your large parts and a blaster is great for things like the door jambs(or soda blasting on large areas since it doesnt do as much damage as sand)
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmodel65 View Post
you guys should see how many parts ive had to fix by people deciding to blast their cars..i remember one trunklid a guy brought in for an impala you could feel an outline of the inner bracing after the customer blasted it... honestly chemical aircraft stripper for your large parts and a blaster is great for things like the door jambs(or soda blasting on large areas since it doesnt do as much damage as sand)
I'm one of the guys that learned the hard way. Had OEM doors, hood, trunk lid blasted by someone that told me they have blasted numerous body parts and did not warp a single one. I had to replace the hood, 1 fender, and trunk lid - warped them all. Doors are a little heavier so I got lucky on that.

I blasted parts of the car where metal was thicker (jambs, engine bay, underneath) but found aircraft stripper to be the best for larger flatter surfaces.
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:24 PM
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