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body restoration question

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Old 08-28-2013, 05:42 PM   #1
neptune2528
 
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Default body restoration question

I purchased my first project a few weeks back (65 convertible) and have gotten to work pulling everything off the vehicle. I will be needing a new passenger apron and probably passenger rear quarter panel (TBD based upon what I find when the paint/bondo come off) and possibly a passenger B pillar....so the net of it is that I have some known body work to do and some unknown body work.

I have a first-timer question at this point...

Should I do the body work that I know of (e.g. Apron) now before having the body stripped?

As for stripping, what do you guys suggest regarding dipping vs. soda blasting, etc? After some research, I feel better about the dipping as there is a TON of stuff in very tough spots (e.g. leaked hydraulic fluid by the convertible pump) and, as a first timer, don't know if blasting would get that stuff. Also, I am in Indy where there is a Redi Strip. It feels like dipping will get that stuff completely cleaned out. That said, there are also a good number of spots that will be very difficult to prime if it isn't dipped for priming as well.

Ultimately, I am at a juncture where a little bit of expert advice would be helpful on the steps/sequence/pros-cons of getting the torn-down vehicle through stripping, body repair and priming.

Thank you very much for all of your help.
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Old 08-28-2013, 06:12 PM   #2
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I have not found anyone in Indiana that dips, but I have heard others say they have, If Redi does it then it's a no-brainer. Soda would be my last choice due to issues after the fact. I have seen newer sandblasters that use water, I really want one of those someday.

I would get the car striped and then seal it right away with SPI epoxy and then start my rebuild work.

What part of IN are you in? Southsider here... CU@ The Suds!
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:08 PM   #3
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Buy a Harbor Freight blaster and some black beauty and blast as you go. That way you're sure to get everything while it's apart.
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Old 08-29-2013, 07:52 AM   #4
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Yeah, don't do that. The outer skins could warp if you are not experienced with that kinda stuff, its fine for nooks n cranny's if you have the work space to make the mess.
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Old 08-29-2013, 08:30 AM   #5
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Coupe - the firm here in Indy that dips is: www.redistripindy.com. I am on the Northside, but redistrip is very close to where I used to live.

So follow-up question...if I go the dipping route, will an epxoy primer cover all of the newly exposed areas? Does that mean I need to find a place that will dip the car for priming as well?

Kinda related: Do you seam seal after the car is primed, or do you seam seal as you do the body work. For example, grind down edges on panels, weld, seam seal and then spot re-prime? Also, if priming immediately after dipping, what about the existing seams...do you not seal those at all?

Sorry for the beginner questions, but I am a...well...beginner.
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:41 AM   #6
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See if they have an epoxy dip, I dont think Redi does but they may spray it for you? If they wont get a cheap gun at harbor freight and some SPI epoxy and spray everything you can to prevent flash rust. I used a dixie cup as a flat funnel to pour some down into the cowl but I think you mentioned that you are going to service that area so it may not matter.

I would bomb the heck out of the car with epoxy and let it flow into seams, then wait till all of the body work is done and seam seal, then re-prime over that.

I used a brush to push the seam sealer into the voids, then primed over the stuff when I did the entire car inside and out. ALL REPAIRS GO OVER EPOXY,EVEN BODY FILLER, so dont get overly hung up if you need to mess an area up after you have primer on it. The point is to seal up clean metal, if primer gets on rust it will get cut out anyway.

Also, get some good weld through primer if you are jointing metal in an overlap method (Cowl spot welds for instance), coat everything and then weld right through and it will help prevent flash rust.
Click the image to open in full size.


In reality the seam sealer is the last thing I like to do, even if it's on a per area (repair) basis. Just be sure to have a good coat of epoxy on the area first, even if you just brush it on.

Last edited by Coupe; 08-29-2013 at 10:44 AM.
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:55 AM   #7
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A friend and I blasted the entire underside and inside of his car, as well as many other areas without issues. Stripper works best on body panels. Be cautious of dipping, if not very carefully rinsed you will have problems down the road. Friend found out the hard way on his Porsche.
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:58 AM   #8
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BTW, if you don't have experience, or use caution, you shouldn't attempt any restoration procedures.

No need for a snotty, dismissive tone.
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Old 08-29-2013, 04:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasAxMan View Post
BTW, if you don't have experience, or use caution, you shouldn't attempt any restoration procedures.

No need for a snotty, dismissive tone.

I was just pointing out that nobody should use a blaster on a cars body without experience for obvious reasons. Reading what you posted you mentioned NOTHING about the underside only.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasAxMan View Post
Buy a Harbor Freight blaster and some black beauty and blast as you go. That way you're sure to get everything while it's apart.
If you think that was Snotty or dismissive I apologize as that was not my intent.
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Old 08-29-2013, 08:49 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coupe View Post
Yeah, don't do that
is the comment I was referring to.

Dipping leaves behind residuals that take longer than the "warranty period" to show up. Been there, done that.

Blasting while the car is cut up gets everything clean and rust free. There's a reason Foose blasts cars instead of dipping them.

And, no one should attempt the contemplated repairs without some experience or, at least, some sense. Reading the OP's post, I assumed he had both.

No war, just don't respond like that to a valid post.
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:42 PM   #11
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Oh, that. I guess I could have worded it differently, but to be fair, as written it was bad advice.

I was more concerned with someones car metal warping than your feelings I guess.
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:43 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasAxMan View Post
BTW, if you don't have experience, or use caution, you shouldn't attempt any restoration procedures.

No need for a snotty, dismissive tone.
I did find this to be snotty and dismissive BTW. I guess everyone that comes here asking advice should just "not do it" then....
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:51 PM   #13
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I could have worded it better, but it is good advice. The OP original question indicated he/she had some skills.

No disrespect, you're car looks good from pics. You've given good advice on this forum.

But, I stand by my advice and think it is the BEST advice for someone in his situation with his/her advertised skills.
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:25 AM   #14
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An interesting addition given some of the feedback provided...I spoke with one of the guys at RediStrip yesterday about the process and what they recommend regarding washing, priming, etc.

In short, he indicated that their wash process is a second dip, which sounds appropriate given the tight areas the first dip would get into. The interesting part was that they don't recommend the body be primed for over a week after it is stripped. He indicated the extra time provides for additional drying/evaporation of anything left over from the dips.

That seemed completely counter-intuitive to me. However, since this is my first time through, maybe you guys can offer your experiences: won't the car flash rust almost immediately? If left in a mostly non-climate-controlled work area won't it most definitely start with some surfance rust?

Second question regarding the seam sealing...I have read a couple places that seam sealing over primer is best done with a metal-etching primer. Coupe, you mention seam sealing over epoxy primer. Any thoughts on the differences?

Just for clarity on the side conversation, I am a 'he'. I have limited skills in this stuff, but I am not afraid to fail.

Last edited by neptune2528; 08-30-2013 at 07:27 AM.
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Old 09-01-2013, 10:46 PM   #15
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Sorry I haven't been back to this.

I now know you are a he.

I still suggest blaster over dipping, because you can take care of problems as you find them. Use some common sense with the pressure and you'll be fine. If you can handle a quarter replacement, shouldn't be any big deal.

Strip the outer panels with aircraft stripper and save the cost of stripping for fun stuff.

Remember, Foose never dips cars ...
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Old 09-02-2013, 07:51 AM   #16
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you guys should see how many parts ive had to fix by people deciding to blast their cars..i remember one trunklid a guy brought in for an impala you could feel an outline of the inner bracing after the customer blasted it... honestly chemical aircraft stripper for your large parts and a blaster is great for things like the door jambs(or soda blasting on large areas since it doesnt do as much damage as sand)
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmodel65 View Post
you guys should see how many parts ive had to fix by people deciding to blast their cars..i remember one trunklid a guy brought in for an impala you could feel an outline of the inner bracing after the customer blasted it... honestly chemical aircraft stripper for your large parts and a blaster is great for things like the door jambs(or soda blasting on large areas since it doesnt do as much damage as sand)
I'm one of the guys that learned the hard way. Had OEM doors, hood, trunk lid blasted by someone that told me they have blasted numerous body parts and did not warp a single one. I had to replace the hood, 1 fender, and trunk lid - warped them all. Doors are a little heavier so I got lucky on that.

I blasted parts of the car where metal was thicker (jambs, engine bay, underneath) but found aircraft stripper to be the best for larger flatter surfaces.
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:24 PM
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