Classic Mustangs (Tech)Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.
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I purchased my first project a few weeks back (65 convertible) and have gotten to work pulling everything off the vehicle. I will be needing a new passenger apron and probably passenger rear quarter panel (TBD based upon what I find when the paint/bondo come off) and possibly a passenger B pillar....so the net of it is that I have some known body work to do and some unknown body work.
I have a first-timer question at this point...
Should I do the body work that I know of (e.g. Apron) now before having the body stripped?
As for stripping, what do you guys suggest regarding dipping vs. soda blasting, etc? After some research, I feel better about the dipping as there is a TON of stuff in very tough spots (e.g. leaked hydraulic fluid by the convertible pump) and, as a first timer, don't know if blasting would get that stuff. Also, I am in Indy where there is a Redi Strip. It feels like dipping will get that stuff completely cleaned out. That said, there are also a good number of spots that will be very difficult to prime if it isn't dipped for priming as well.
Ultimately, I am at a juncture where a little bit of expert advice would be helpful on the steps/sequence/pros-cons of getting the torn-down vehicle through stripping, body repair and priming.
Thank you very much for all of your help.
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I have not found anyone in Indiana that dips, but I have heard others say they have, If Redi does it then it's a no-brainer. Soda would be my last choice due to issues after the fact. I have seen newer sandblasters that use water, I really want one of those someday.
I would get the car striped and then seal it right away with SPI epoxy and then start my rebuild work.
What part of IN are you in? Southsider here... CU@ The Suds!
Coupe - the firm here in Indy that dips is: www.redistripindy.com. I am on the Northside, but redistrip is very close to where I used to live.
So follow-up question...if I go the dipping route, will an epxoy primer cover all of the newly exposed areas? Does that mean I need to find a place that will dip the car for priming as well?
Kinda related: Do you seam seal after the car is primed, or do you seam seal as you do the body work. For example, grind down edges on panels, weld, seam seal and then spot re-prime? Also, if priming immediately after dipping, what about the existing seams...do you not seal those at all?
Sorry for the beginner questions, but I am a...well...beginner.
See if they have an epoxy dip, I dont think Redi does but they may spray it for you? If they wont get a cheap gun at harbor freight and some SPI epoxy and spray everything you can to prevent flash rust. I used a dixie cup as a flat funnel to pour some down into the cowl but I think you mentioned that you are going to service that area so it may not matter.
I would bomb the heck out of the car with epoxy and let it flow into seams, then wait till all of the body work is done and seam seal, then re-prime over that.
I used a brush to push the seam sealer into the voids, then primed over the stuff when I did the entire car inside and out. ALL REPAIRS GO OVER EPOXY,EVEN BODY FILLER, so dont get overly hung up if you need to mess an area up after you have primer on it. The point is to seal up clean metal, if primer gets on rust it will get cut out anyway.
Also, get some good weld through primer if you are jointing metal in an overlap method (Cowl spot welds for instance), coat everything and then weld right through and it will help prevent flash rust.
In reality the seam sealer is the last thing I like to do, even if it's on a per area (repair) basis. Just be sure to have a good coat of epoxy on the area first, even if you just brush it on.
A friend and I blasted the entire underside and inside of his car, as well as many other areas without issues. Stripper works best on body panels. Be cautious of dipping, if not very carefully rinsed you will have problems down the road. Friend found out the hard way on his Porsche.
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