Installing Torque Boxes
10-04-2013, 04:28 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SC
Posts: 30
Installing Torque Boxes
Spent the last week cutting out rusted/poorly installed floor pan and toe board patches from my 68 fastback. Discovered some serious corrosion in the RH side so decided to cut that out and replace also. The torque box required quite a bit of cutting and grinding to get out but finally got all the surround sheet metal cleaned up yesterday.
I had coated the interior of the new replacement box with POR 15 after seeing how much rust was inside the old one. When I tried to get it fitted, I quickly realized that it is almost impossible to get it worked into place because of all of the flanges sticking out of the various sides and bottom.
I noticed several of the vendors offered a two piece box for "easier installation" but charged $20-30 more so went with the standard one piece welded box. I now see that I will probably have to drill out the spot welds on the box and take it apart to get it to fit so in hindsight the two piece box would have been better but couldn't understand why it would cost more for a part that had not been welded together.
Regardless, anyone else run into this issue? Any solutions or do I need to go ahead and take my box apart?
Many thanks!
I had coated the interior of the new replacement box with POR 15 after seeing how much rust was inside the old one. When I tried to get it fitted, I quickly realized that it is almost impossible to get it worked into place because of all of the flanges sticking out of the various sides and bottom.
I noticed several of the vendors offered a two piece box for "easier installation" but charged $20-30 more so went with the standard one piece welded box. I now see that I will probably have to drill out the spot welds on the box and take it apart to get it to fit so in hindsight the two piece box would have been better but couldn't understand why it would cost more for a part that had not been welded together.
Regardless, anyone else run into this issue? Any solutions or do I need to go ahead and take my box apart?
Many thanks!
10-04-2013, 07:00 AM
#2
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location:
Posts: 356
Hi,
Don't know how much difference there is between my early 65 cvt and your 68 Coupe(?), but, I replaced both TQ boxes, toe boards, side rails, and both floors.
I installed 1 pc. boxes, before 2 pc were available (10-15 years ago). Personally, I would go with the I pc. After cleaning up all of the surround metal, I was able to slip the TQ box in from the front wheel well side (obviously). I went on to replace both You can not do this? Sorry, perhaps not much help. Good Luck!
Don't know how much difference there is between my early 65 cvt and your 68 Coupe(?), but, I replaced both TQ boxes, toe boards, side rails, and both floors.
I installed 1 pc. boxes, before 2 pc were available (10-15 years ago). Personally, I would go with the I pc. After cleaning up all of the surround metal, I was able to slip the TQ box in from the front wheel well side (obviously). I went on to replace both You can not do this? Sorry, perhaps not much help. Good Luck!
10-05-2013, 05:18 AM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SC
Posts: 30
Thanks for the information.
I spent about 45 minutes yesterday morning trying to get the torque box positioned into place but the welding flanges (especially the bottom one) kept getting in the way. I finally spent 30 minutes drilling out the spot welds and grinding the panels smooth.
The bottom piece slid right in so I can see that taking the box apart was the right choice. I still need to tweak a couple of the flanges but that is easier with out the top piece in place.
There is another advantage to taking the box apart other than you pretty much have to for it to fit. I cut out the old one because of sever corrosion around the lower joint. The box is not sealed from the elements so any time the car is on a wet road, water get up inside the box and settles in the welded joints. By taking the box apart, I'm able to get either a coat of POR15 or weld thru primer on the inside. Hopefully this will prevent any rust from forming for quite a few years.
Thanks again.
I spent about 45 minutes yesterday morning trying to get the torque box positioned into place but the welding flanges (especially the bottom one) kept getting in the way. I finally spent 30 minutes drilling out the spot welds and grinding the panels smooth.
The bottom piece slid right in so I can see that taking the box apart was the right choice. I still need to tweak a couple of the flanges but that is easier with out the top piece in place.
There is another advantage to taking the box apart other than you pretty much have to for it to fit. I cut out the old one because of sever corrosion around the lower joint. The box is not sealed from the elements so any time the car is on a wet road, water get up inside the box and settles in the welded joints. By taking the box apart, I'm able to get either a coat of POR15 or weld thru primer on the inside. Hopefully this will prevent any rust from forming for quite a few years.
Thanks again.
10-09-2013, 06:00 PM
#4
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,195
i put the two piece TB in my 66, and other than some fitment issues, and making subtle changes, they went in very easy and very nice, very clean fit. One thing I did was modify the rocker panel side flange, and reversed the flange downward, rather than upward through the floor. My floors were in very good condition and I didn't want to cut them to slide this lip through, so reversing it was the best option. Worked great!
I also created a cap for the rear of the TB to eliminate junk and road gunk from blowing back into the box. A couple of simple body screws will hold the cap in place.
The two piece is definately the way to go. Fitting is time consuming if you want to get it just right. I must have put these darn things on 20 times, grinding, tweaking, bending, before they were welded in place.
I also created a cap for the rear of the TB to eliminate junk and road gunk from blowing back into the box. A couple of simple body screws will hold the cap in place.
The two piece is definately the way to go. Fitting is time consuming if you want to get it just right. I must have put these darn things on 20 times, grinding, tweaking, bending, before they were welded in place.
Last edited by groho; 10-09-2013 at 06:04 PM.
10-10-2013, 05:26 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SC
Posts: 30
Thanks for the information.
I finished the RH box and toeboards yesterday. I'm happy with how everything turned out but took plenty of trimming and grinding. Definitely having the box in two pieces was the easier way to get it welded in place. At least I know it will never be a place for rust again.
I think I may have lucked out and won't have to replace the LH torque box. There is a little surface rust inside but not too bad. Will spray it with Metal Ready and use a small brush on a stick and coat the inside with POR15. The driver side toe board and floor pan replacement should be a piece of cake!
I finished the RH box and toeboards yesterday. I'm happy with how everything turned out but took plenty of trimming and grinding. Definitely having the box in two pieces was the easier way to get it welded in place. At least I know it will never be a place for rust again.
I think I may have lucked out and won't have to replace the LH torque box. There is a little surface rust inside but not too bad. Will spray it with Metal Ready and use a small brush on a stick and coat the inside with POR15. The driver side toe board and floor pan replacement should be a piece of cake!
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