1969 Coupe suspension build
12-30-2013, 05:37 PM
#51
What I have decided to do with the baer tracker kit is the following:
cut both ends of adjusting sleeve 3/8"
cut inner tie rods 1/2"
Method I chose to do this? Jim the machinist at NAPA. I went around town to 5 different places to find 11/16" hardware, no one has any. Had I anticipated this problem I would have ordered nuts online (for thread cleaning). Not sure what I would have done to cut sleeve.
I am not happy about needing to modify these pieces, I paid a lot of money for a 'quality' piece and I am unsure why it works fine for most, while some others I have read about had to do the same thing. Regardless BAER should look into this and consider updating their design.
Good new is that when I picked up the car from the frame shop I immediately noticed it was level and not leaning anymore. I am thinking the unibody was tweaked from being in the air for awhile, because as far as I can tell it sits level now, and the frame printout shows it wasn't that far out of spec (a few mm). So hopefully I will be driving this beast by the end of the week.
cut both ends of adjusting sleeve 3/8"
cut inner tie rods 1/2"
Method I chose to do this? Jim the machinist at NAPA. I went around town to 5 different places to find 11/16" hardware, no one has any. Had I anticipated this problem I would have ordered nuts online (for thread cleaning). Not sure what I would have done to cut sleeve.
I am not happy about needing to modify these pieces, I paid a lot of money for a 'quality' piece and I am unsure why it works fine for most, while some others I have read about had to do the same thing. Regardless BAER should look into this and consider updating their design.
Good new is that when I picked up the car from the frame shop I immediately noticed it was level and not leaning anymore. I am thinking the unibody was tweaked from being in the air for awhile, because as far as I can tell it sits level now, and the frame printout shows it wasn't that far out of spec (a few mm). So hopefully I will be driving this beast by the end of the week.
12-30-2013, 09:42 PM
#52
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 2,682
Sucks that you are javang to shorten those. Maybe it would be a good idea to put in some frame supports at this point. Since everything is straight. Tie the front and back together and bolt in a export brace and Monte Carlo bar if you haven't. I'm curious to find out how your alignment goes..
12-30-2013, 09:54 PM
#53
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 2,682
Ha! I noticed that your wheels are sitting forward in the front fenders just like mine. I still have to shim my upper a arms and realign and hopefully it puts the suspensions in the right spot. Just keep that in mind for your alignment. They may not be able to get the caster and camber set up to spec without the shims, and it won't be the cars fault. It's our great idea of doing the Shelby drop. Go back and look at some of the Shelby race cars.. they actually cut the bottom lip of the valance out to keep it from rubbing the tire at full turn. I'm running 245 45 17's up front.
12-31-2013, 02:53 AM
#54
Already installed monte carlo bar, have tinmans in house, that's next project. I have driven the car already, so far no signs of rubbing 235/45/17. What I will say is these gas a justs are freaking stiff! Supposedly I have one of the heavier year/combo cars (351w fmx) but I'm kinda shocked how stiff they are. I don't think shocks break in, and at this point I'm ready to call BS to anyone that says these are not stiff shocks. Not firm, stiff!
I kind of like the look of where the tire sits, but it isn't aligned obviously so that may change. Either way I'm not worried, shimming if necessary isn't the end of the world. Then adjustable stuff still lets you get it that much more dialed in. Jack at frame shops exact words were, "should be no problem getting this car aligned", we'll see.
One thing that I'm sure of is that the car looks great with the new stance, different car. She's due for a deep cleaning and after the alignment I will take some decent photos...
I kind of like the look of where the tire sits, but it isn't aligned obviously so that may change. Either way I'm not worried, shimming if necessary isn't the end of the world. Then adjustable stuff still lets you get it that much more dialed in. Jack at frame shops exact words were, "should be no problem getting this car aligned", we'll see.
One thing that I'm sure of is that the car looks great with the new stance, different car. She's due for a deep cleaning and after the alignment I will take some decent photos...
12-31-2013, 05:05 PM
#55
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: CA, Bay Area
Posts: 266
Already installed monte carlo bar, have tinmans in house, that's next project. I have driven the car already, so far no signs of rubbing 235/45/17. What I will say is these gas a justs are freaking stiff! Supposedly I have one of the heavier year/combo cars (351w fmx) but I'm kinda shocked how stiff they are. I don't think shocks break in, and at this point I'm ready to call BS to anyone that says these are not stiff shocks. Not firm, stiff!
I kind of like the look of where the tire sits, but it isn't aligned obviously so that may change. Either way I'm not worried, shimming if necessary isn't the end of the world. Then adjustable stuff still lets you get it that much more dialed in. Jack at frame shops exact words were, "should be no problem getting this car aligned", we'll see.
One thing that I'm sure of is that the car looks great with the new stance, different car. She's due for a deep cleaning and after the alignment I will take some decent photos...
I kind of like the look of where the tire sits, but it isn't aligned obviously so that may change. Either way I'm not worried, shimming if necessary isn't the end of the world. Then adjustable stuff still lets you get it that much more dialed in. Jack at frame shops exact words were, "should be no problem getting this car aligned", we'll see.
One thing that I'm sure of is that the car looks great with the new stance, different car. She's due for a deep cleaning and after the alignment I will take some decent photos...
01-01-2014, 03:51 PM
#56
Hi all, so the mods I made to the baer tracker worked perfectly. Toe adjustment should be fine now. I have a question for ya'll with short/cut springs. How do you keep the spring centered in the isolators when setting the car back on the ground? I couldn't think of anything that would work well. I ask because when my car was leaning it looks like the spring was on the edge of the isolator and it got chewed up a bit.
In other news, the upper control arms will HAVE to be shimmed to get proper camber adjustment. The lower control arm eccentric kit is already as inboard as it will go so the uppers need to go outward. No signs yet if shims will be needed to relocate wheel in well. Alignment shop was closed for holiday so tomorrow I drop it off.
In other news, the upper control arms will HAVE to be shimmed to get proper camber adjustment. The lower control arm eccentric kit is already as inboard as it will go so the uppers need to go outward. No signs yet if shims will be needed to relocate wheel in well. Alignment shop was closed for holiday so tomorrow I drop it off.
01-03-2014, 03:00 AM
#59
Finally got car to alignment shop. The employee knew that I am familiar with cars, but still was insisting that shimming the upper control arms isn't that easy. I argued how simple it is (uninstall lower shock mount, and sway bar end links to allow droopage) then loosen the bolts and when you can pull the control arm out a little bit slide the shims in. Don't even need to remove the spring, but its easy if you want to anyway. I think he got the picture eventually lol. Their estimate of $199 seems reasonable seeing as how this isn't an everyday vehicle they encounter.
Still having issues with the spring isolators. Its pretty much impossible for one person to guide the spring and actuate a jack at the same time. I think I will be doing what opentracker did with a cable limiter attached to the spring cover. However I am hesitant to drill through these nice control arms! I was thinking of using some kind of strap that I could just wrap around it, but that might leave rub marks unless I came up with some creative solution. Maybe a cable with some sort of isolation (rubber etc) on part around upper c.a. with something to prevent the loop from widening as the suspension moves (crimp/clamp of some kind). I will probably be purchasing new isolators cuz the ones I got are chewed up.
And for those that read the fine print, I take back my statement about the kyb's. They are not soft or a comfort shock but after another drive I changed my mind and like them. Spring may not have been resting properly first drive. It could be the adjustable strut rods adding to the harshness, however I never could really wrap my head around why they would affect the comfort/smooth ride quality. Essentially they are part of the lower control arm, and my intuition tells me that the 'give' the rubber stock ones had would only contribute to sketchiness in the handling, especially as the rubber ages then it changes your caster (albeit slightly).
Still having issues with the spring isolators. Its pretty much impossible for one person to guide the spring and actuate a jack at the same time. I think I will be doing what opentracker did with a cable limiter attached to the spring cover. However I am hesitant to drill through these nice control arms! I was thinking of using some kind of strap that I could just wrap around it, but that might leave rub marks unless I came up with some creative solution. Maybe a cable with some sort of isolation (rubber etc) on part around upper c.a. with something to prevent the loop from widening as the suspension moves (crimp/clamp of some kind). I will probably be purchasing new isolators cuz the ones I got are chewed up.
And for those that read the fine print, I take back my statement about the kyb's. They are not soft or a comfort shock but after another drive I changed my mind and like them. Spring may not have been resting properly first drive. It could be the adjustable strut rods adding to the harshness, however I never could really wrap my head around why they would affect the comfort/smooth ride quality. Essentially they are part of the lower control arm, and my intuition tells me that the 'give' the rubber stock ones had would only contribute to sketchiness in the handling, especially as the rubber ages then it changes your caster (albeit slightly).
01-06-2014, 10:07 PM
#60
So I picked up the car today, and was immediately disappointed because the steering was off center. The effort wasn't nearly as bad as I was expecting, still hard though. As soon as I hit a pothole I could tell they didn't listen to the specific instructions printed out I gave them about guiding the spring into the isolators when the car is getting lowered to the ground. So the car wasn't sitting quite right thus the alignment will be off. I am going to demand a re-do of the whole damn thing. I don't know if this is a California thing, but almost all of the mechanics I have had encounters/transactions with have done really bad work or pi$$ed me off for so many reasons. The place I chose was recommended by the frame shop, and had good reviews. Anyway, the process is an uphill battle, today I saw over the top of the hill but didn't quite get there.
The car was aligned to -.75camber +2.5caster and with the equivalent of 1/8" toe in
but this was most likely measured after the spring was not in the right position.
Also, my return to center was really bad, and since the effort really was manageable I am thinking of going to +3caster if they'll do it for free. So far the steering sucks in terms of response/feel, I might do a box adjustment when the rest is right.
The car was aligned to -.75camber +2.5caster and with the equivalent of 1/8" toe in
but this was most likely measured after the spring was not in the right position.
Also, my return to center was really bad, and since the effort really was manageable I am thinking of going to +3caster if they'll do it for free. So far the steering sucks in terms of response/feel, I might do a box adjustment when the rest is right.