1966 Coupe Drum to Disc Brake Conversion
#11
Yes, you will have to replace the m/c, change the distribution block (or add an in-line prop valve), and replumb some hard lines. Most kits come with a new m/c, but the hard lines can be purchased at any parts store.
I have the OE-style CSRP disc kit without the booster. I did it initially to save a couple bucks, with the knowledge that I could always add a booster down the road if I felt I needed it. But after driving it for a while as a manual setup, I'm very happy with it. It's leaps and bounds better than the original manual drum brakes, and I don't ever find myself wishing that I had a power booster.
Power brakes are good for a lazy weekend car, or maybe a daily that you wanted to be as easy to drive as possible. But they make modulating the brakes difficult during performance driving, as brake assist varies with engine vacuum.
I have the OE-style CSRP disc kit without the booster. I did it initially to save a couple bucks, with the knowledge that I could always add a booster down the road if I felt I needed it. But after driving it for a while as a manual setup, I'm very happy with it. It's leaps and bounds better than the original manual drum brakes, and I don't ever find myself wishing that I had a power booster.
Power brakes are good for a lazy weekend car, or maybe a daily that you wanted to be as easy to drive as possible. But they make modulating the brakes difficult during performance driving, as brake assist varies with engine vacuum.
#13
CSRP has a factory-style combo block that has a proportioning valve built in, eliminating the need for an in-line prop valve for the rear brakes. Makes for a cleaner look, and also means you don't have to cut and re-flare the rear brake line.
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