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1965 Coupe Build (Pic Heavy)

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Old 03-03-2014, 12:50 PM
  #11  
clowe1965
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Got the dash wiring removed, so the only thing left is the center console wiring, tail lights, and fuel sending unit wiring in the car. Also removed the vent assembly, heater box, pedals and otherdash components, leaving the steering column, heater controls and firewall insulation on the interior.
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Old 03-04-2014, 03:43 PM
  #12  
groho
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Go to harbor frieght and buy a $20 4-in grinder, and 4-in KNOTTED wire wheel. It will be your best friend at this stage. don't worry, it shouldn't damage the metal. the 4-in traditional wire wheel isn't sturdy enough to quickly clean off the junk and glue. I just used one to remove the undercoating in my rear wheel housing and took me less the 30 min each side. Whatever you do, don't use a metal gasket scraper or similar, you just gouge the metal.

I was looking at wiring also since I'm ready to go to paint. you have two choices, one is traditional OEM color coded or aftermarket labelled. The aftermarket is cheaper, possibly better, but looks to be more overall work to cut & terminate each connection. American Auto Wire seems to be the go to. Painless is often referred to as Painful.

Last edited by groho; 03-04-2014 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 03-05-2014, 07:08 AM
  #13  
clowe1965
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Originally Posted by groho
Go to harbor frieght and buy a $20 4-in grinder, and 4-in KNOTTED wire wheel. It will be your best friend at this stage. don't worry, it shouldn't damage the metal. the 4-in traditional wire wheel isn't sturdy enough to quickly clean off the junk and glue. I just used one to remove the undercoating in my rear wheel housing and took me less the 30 min each side. Whatever you do, don't use a metal gasket scraper or similar, you just gouge the metal.

I was looking at wiring also since I'm ready to go to paint. you have two choices, one is traditional OEM color coded or aftermarket labelled. The aftermarket is cheaper, possibly better, but looks to be more overall work to cut & terminate each connection. American Auto Wire seems to be the go to. Painless is often referred to as Painful.
Thanks for that. I used a wire cup wheel for a while and got the primer coated section and both fenders before i found the stripper disc. It took me a lot longer than 30 minutes though. it was a 4" grinder and the cup was very stiff twisted wire. it didn't reall trip the paint off though. you can see on the bare fender it appears to have almost embedded paint particles in the surface. I started on the hood with the wheel, got about 1'x2' done in 30 minutes. Lots of nice thick paint. switched to the stripper disc and finished the entire hood in another 45 minutes. So I'll use that where I can on the exterior, but the wire wheel will still be used in the tight areas everywhere else.

I've heard the same thing about painless. The AAW kit looks nice, just pricey. I'm going to eventually put EFI and other modern convieniences so I'll have a lot of splicing to do.
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Old 03-05-2014, 12:27 PM
  #14  
Diputado
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Lot of work, there, Bro!! It'll be all done one day, though. As you well know, I've been doing a ton of stuff to my '65 over the past year or so, and I ain't nearly done yet! But, as soon as you get to the phase where you can at least take it for a spin now and then, the rest is easy! (or easier!!)
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Old 03-05-2014, 09:19 PM
  #15  
clowe1965
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Originally Posted by Diputado
Lot of work, there, Bro!! It'll be all done one day, though. As you well know, I've been doing a ton of stuff to my '65 over the past year or so, and I ain't nearly done yet! But, as soon as you get to the phase where you can at least take it for a spin now and then, the rest is easy! (or easier!!)
Lol, that was my "reason" i bought the new one, at least the one I told my wife!
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Old 03-07-2014, 10:54 AM
  #16  
racer_dave
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What was the stripper disc? part number? source? picture? please :-) thanks
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Old 03-08-2014, 07:12 AM
  #17  
clowe1965
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Originally Posted by racer_dave
What was the stripper disc? part number? source? picture? please :-) thanks
This. I found the first one at sears but it's a bit to big (8") and gets to be a handful, I've since bought a smaller 4" version.

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-h...l#.UxsWxM4ZMto
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:51 PM
  #18  
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So I've started adding up my budget numbers, so far in just the exterior (sheet metal, frame reinforcement, trim, bumpers etc) and paint I'm up to 4700 in just materials. This includes the stuff to paint it myself. Sound about right so far? Here's the spreadsheet.
Sheet Metal Price
Door Skins $139.98
Subframe Connectors $250.00
Shock Tower Bracing $20.00
Front subframe bracing $15.00
Cowl repair $119.90
Floor Pan $49.99
Rear Seat Divider $75.00
Inner Rocker Panels $147.98
1 Piece Seat Pan $119.99
Rail Bracing $35.00
Engine Bay Cross Member $50.00
Shock Tower Notch $75.00
Front Fender Apron RH $23.95
Splash Shields $49.88
Torque Boxes $169.98
Bolt Kit $209.95

Fiberglass Price
Fenders $669.95

Rubber Price
Plugs $17.95
Weather Stripping for windshield, doors, trunk $172.33
Body Bumpers and Seals $48.88

Paint/Prep Price
POR 15 $50.00
Eastwood Internal Coating $60.00
Bondo $84.00
paint $1,000.00

Expendables Price
TIG welding supplies $100.00
Welding Wire $75.00
Sand Paper $100.00
Coveralls $40.00

Paint Thinner $15.00
Paper Towels $25.00
Rags $20.00
Saw Blades $40.00

Trim Price

Emblems $49.88
Bumper/Chrome Trim $204.88
Window Trim
Door Trim
Door Handles $64.95
Fasteners $13.95
Mirrors $229.90

Tools Price

Respirator $100.00
Dremel $77.88
DA $75.00
Paint Gun $275.00
Air Compressor $300.00
Buffer $75.00
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:37 PM
  #19  
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I see you've been busy Clint. Luckily you're a young man who has plenty of time to see this through.
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Old 09-26-2014, 07:10 AM
  #20  
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I can't wait until it's finished.
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