panteramatt

I have a 69 mach 1 that Im currently restoring and want to rebuild the 351w in it. It runs now but seems tired and smokes after a while. I am planning to do a stroker but need help from the pro's and want it to be reliable for the weekend cruises. My q's:

1. Shold I but a stoker "kit" for this block or buy a shortblock already built?

2. Where's the best place to buy the kit or shortblock?

3. I plan on using AFR heads but which one's?

4. What cam size? I want it to be streetable.

5. 393 or 408 for reliability?

Any help at all will be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance.

Soaring

http://www.airflowresearch.com/

dodgestang

1. Depends on factors such as...what bore is current motor, is this car used all the time and you can't afford to be without it for a couple weeks, is money no object?

2. Many places out there that people recommend. I prefer to recommend places not to go....do no go to speedomotive.com and buy anything

3. The head choice depends on what you plan to do with the motor, the total cubes you want to build, and the HP/TQ number you want to build for

4. Cam choice is the single largest determining factor if your motor with be hell on earth, run like a raped ape, or fall flat on its face. I recommend getting a custom cam from a well known source. I used Ed Curtis at Flowtech industries and I hit my performance goal square on the head with his cam grind specs.

In realaity you need to define:
First: the budget..how much you want to spend end to end
Second: the performance goal...how mouch power do you really want
Third: the projected use....sounds like you want a weekend show/street car

Once these 3 are known variables you can start to examine closer to make sure they all work together..for example
1. I want to spend $1500 end to end
2. I want 700 HP
3. I want this in my daily driver

These all seem a little at odds dont' they? You can conceivably do 2 and 3...but not with the stipulation of 1.

Other things to keep in mind when working out a budget and deciding on the power level and use...can your car take it? will current drivetrain components survive under the stess? is the unibody capable of surviving the added torque? Will my brakes the stop the car from 110 MPH in a suffieicnt space and time? Is the suspension capable of letting me turn the wheel and not skidding of the road at speed?

panteramatt

Well, Id like to spend around $3500 on the parts and achieve at least 500 flywheel hp. Im upgrading the brakes and the suspension is already done. The tranny will be built up also. I also already have the carb and intake needed.I want a weekend warrior-show car and would lke to break into the 11's.

dodgestang

I think you need more money based on what you have already stated:

AFR 205 = 1500 to 1700 setup if you downsize to 185s they are still 1300-1500 setup you might be able to shop around and find some for less
Stroker Kit = 1200 (393) / $1400 (408) / $2000 (427) are about the average prices for the entry level kits with no upgrades.

You still need for sure: block work (basic machining to prep the block, you would have to the assebmly), intake, carb, ignition, ROLLBAR (can't run in 11s without it), oil pump, fuel pump, rocker arms, push rods, lifters, cam, gaskets, traction device (underrider, cal tracks)

You might need: radiator, tires, track specific supsension, battery relocated to the rear

From an another perspective if you bought a crate motor

408w crate motor price points from coasthigh.com
Entry level: short block $2600
Entry level: long block $5599

Upgraded the prices go up tp $3500+ just for the short block and $7k for the long block

Even if you bought the long block, you still need things like ignition, carb, traction device, roll bar (to run in the 11s) etc.


Anyway....you can certainly build a stroker motor for $3500....however you might not like what you end up with....to meet an in the 11s goal you need to spend more than 3500.

For $3500 I have no doubt you can build a 393 or 408 with the block you have but would end up reusing your current heads until a later time when you can get new ones. Taking out that 1500-2000 chunk, you can then afford to get all the right upgrades to the kit get it zero balance, you will still have to do the assembly yourself, get an ignition system (unless you already have a MSD setup, I don't think you want to run your stock dizzy in a stroker do you?), get an intake, get some port work done on your stock heads, 3 angle vlave job, and get springs installed for the cam, of course buy the cam etc...

panteramatt

Sorry, I guess I should have been more specific. I alsready have a msd box and distributer, aluminum rad with elec fan, long tube headers, high rise cam, intake, carb, and suspension work etc.

hutchamatic

393. 408's beat the bearings up pretty bad.

Scott H.

Dodgestang gave you some darned good advice, based on his own personal experience. I would suggest you listen to him closely.

IMO:

1. If you have a 69 351W block, you all ready have the basis to build a bullit proof motor. According to most people the '69 block was *the* best year. You need to spend some time searching through forums on engine build ups. You also should get a copy of the book "How to Build Big Inch Ford Small Blocks", and read it cover to cover (yes even the stuff on the 302 block). You might even review Dodgestang's web site. He talks about the good, bad and the ugly of his 408 engine experience.

Then when you have thoroughly educated yourself and can seperate the BS from real knowledge...Find a competent high performance engine machine shop and work with them. They will back up their work, help you on initial start up, and teach you even more.

2. See #1

3. See #1

4. See #1

5. See #1

panteramatt

Yea thats the problem with living in South Jersey, cant really find a trustworthy shop. I found a 408 fully forged kit with h-beam rods for $1155 from the Mustang Depot. Thought that was a really good deal.

Soaring

If you don't have a speed shop in your area that will work with you, I suggest you look into a crate engine, and sell yours. Are you willing to install a roll bar in order to run in the 11's? Listen to these guys carefully, they all have their chit together.