ljrullman

I have a 1967 Convertible with 289 I took to a reputable mechanic who happens to be a mustang guy (owns 3) for suspension estimates and noticed also some engine issues. I got a quote and am looking for advice from more experienced owners - I don't mind paying for quality work but don't want to get taken advantage of. The front strut mounts are new (previous owner four years ago) and the front sway bar is good. The transmissions was rebuilt (previous owner), and the drum brakes were converted to disc (previous owner).

PARTS QUOTE (rounded up almost $800)
Rear 4 leaf springs $365
Rear shocks KYB GR2 $70
Front shocks KYB GR2 $74
Master Cylinder $145
Oil Pan gasket45
Misc parts $50
Shop supplies $23
Oil/filters $21

LABOR QUOTE (rounded up almost $900)
Springs and shocks $238
Engine leaks intake and gasket $190 (2-4 hours to diagnose where leak)
Oil pan gasket $143
Replace master cylinder/bleed system $143
Fabricate batter hold and retainer $166
Oil change $13
Envrion Disposal $27

The springs seem expensive by $100 based on what I've seen online. Any advice on whether I'm in the ball park or should scrub these a bit? Thanks.

barnett468

need the master cyl app. if it is cast iron, a new one is typically around 40.00 for raybestos etc..

the rear springs should be around 180.00. need brand he is using.

the oil should have zddp in it like valvoline vr-1.

the pan gasket should be around 20.00 at the most for a fel pro if its not a 1 piece one.

the shock price is pretty cheap. i would verify that is for a pair. amazon has them for 180.00 for all 4.



oil pan labor is dirt cheap imo.

rear spring and shock labor seems a little high imo. he can do it in all in 2 1/2 hours working slowly.

.

Starfury

The only thing I see that's out of line is the brake m/c cost. I don't see why that should run $145. Like barnett said, $40 over the counter is a good rough estimate. I could see maybe $70-80 at a shop, but I want to know what he's looking at that's getting his price to $145.

The other stuff looks ok. Figuring that most shops charge 50-100% markup (they have to in order to pay the bills), the part prices look fine. Labor costs look ok to me, maybe even a bit below what i'd expect.

racer_dave

I'm with the others, the m/c charge might be high, but again, what is he replacing it with? Is the one on there stock or an upgrade? If its an upgrade it might cost more.

I thought the labor rates are pretty good. I'd have no problem on this if he does good work.

Gun Jam

wow ive done all those jobs by myself in my driveway or garage.

I have no idea what shop rates should be but others have agreed they are okay.

let me add this: Having personally done all of this stuff some as recent at yesterday I believe that the most difficult of the above jobs is the intake gasket. If an oil pan gasket is 145 to install (about 1 hr of actual work) then an intake gasket should be 500 dollars in labor.

It requires removing the distributor and setting timing back up

partial coolant drain.

Scraping of old gasket material is essential and scrapings must not be allowed into the engine valley (this is an hr of work alone and most difficult part)

one must not use the end seals that come with some intake gaskets these will leak oil. I use a very thick bead of a sealant called "right stuff" It is expensive about 20 per can.

If you dont have exhaust cross over make sure you use the block offs that come with the gasket....I have found these dont always fit right and take time.

The gasket its self may require modification around water ports (2nd most difficult job)


With an oil pan a simple 4 piece gasket works great. I use gaskacinch to hold them all in place. A flat scraper to clean off the surfaces and a bit of rtv at the union of the font and rear seals where the meet the side gaskets....total cake walk.

Good luck!

-Gun

67mustang302

Save the money from labor and do it yourself, and use it to buy better parts.

ljrullman

Thanks everyone. This was all really helpful. I spoke to the mechanic today and they are going to work with me on pricing - they were great. The master cylinder cost seems high and we'll go with another - from Mustant Depot there ranged from $60 - $150 and I'll get a lesser one. I told him the leaf springs seemed quite costly, unless they are Eaton plus some markup. With that said, I have two more questions:

1) Since the previous owner covered from drum to disc brakes, I assume I would still install a standard two chamber drum m/c (not a disc brake m/c)?
2) Even they are pricey, I'm now thinking for the $345 the mechanic wants to charge me, if they are Eaton springs maybe it's worth it. I had been planning on Grab a Trak or Summit or something like that. But the more I read it seems like lots of people are unhappy with the ride height except with Eaton. Comments?

Thanks

67mustang302

You need a disc m/c for disc brakes.

If you're spending money on leaf springs, get Maier springs; they're worth every penny and then some.

Starfury

From an alternative viewpoint, I have 4.5-leaf Grab-A-Trak springs and I'm happy with them. They're designed to lower the rear ~1", so I can't speak for the stock-height units. They're stiff enough to give a sporty ride, but not so stiff that my Edelbrock shocks can't soak up the bumps and keep the tires on the ground.

barnett468

i have a shop and i would rather do 4 intakes than 1 pan gasket, lol.

we need to know this.

is your current master cast iron?

are all 4 wheels disc?

are your calipers 2, 4, or 6 piston.

do you have a power booster?

i can then probably give you the $40.00 master cylinder part number you need.