Go Back   MustangForums.com > Ford Mustang Tech > Classic Mustangs (Tech)
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search


Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Welcome to Mustang Forums!
Welcome to Mustang Forums.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-16-2014, 01:06 PM   #11
Gun Jam
Moderator
 
Gun Jam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 4,363
Send a message via ICQ to Gun Jam Send a message via AIM to Gun Jam Send a message via Yahoo to Gun Jam
Default

6) pull the cap off the distributor and crank the engine over does the rotor spin if no then its a stripped dizzy gear...also a very very easy test and a hypothesis that 100% fits the symptoms this is a very likely culprit...and takes about 3 min to check.
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
__________________

Masters of Industrial Technology intelligence thats why I own guns made to drop elephants.
Gun Jam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2014, 01:10 PM   #12
jckinthebox
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Vehicle: 1968 Ford Mustang
Location: Maryland
Posts: 12
Default

I apologize if Im making it seem like im disregarding your suggsetions.

1. yes pulled the covers and all valves seemed to be in order.

2 the reasoning behind the new coil was that the secondary coil was reading over 14000 ohms of resistance which by my research is too high.

3. I agree completely however I test the resistance of the new one before it went in and checked spark at the plugs after installation which was why i believed it to be functional.

5. I will give it a try tonight

And I was asking which wire haha im assuming you mean the high tension lead going to the distributor but wasnt sure

Once again really appreciate the input,
Jack
jckinthebox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2014, 02:56 PM   #13
Derf00
6th Gear Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Vehicle: '08 S197 GT
Location: AZ
Posts: 9,729
Default

still running points/condenser system or electronic? If Old school, could be the condenser is going out - heats up then fails, cools down and is fine. Electronic could be the control module is getting overly hot and failing until it cools down.

Fuel Vapor Lock, again, heats up and boils/vaporizes the fuel in the fuel line until it cools and recondenses. If it just started heating up in your area and this problem started about the same time, those are the things I'd look at first.
__________________
08 S197 GT Auto: FRPP Strut Tower Brace, FRPP Bullitt CAI, Bama 91-P Tune
Pending upgrades: Shaftmasters Aluminum 3.5" DS, FRPP 3.73 gears, Axle back exahust (?)

Quote:
Originally Posted by LostBoyz View Post
if you are getting 29mpg in your 5.0, you aren't driving it correctly
Derf00 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2014, 06:28 PM   #14
Gun Jam
Moderator
 
Gun Jam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 4,363
Send a message via ICQ to Gun Jam Send a message via AIM to Gun Jam Send a message via Yahoo to Gun Jam
Default

I am unfamiliar with whatever system uses a secondary coil. By coil voltage I meant what normally would be power to the coil typically 6 ,9 or 12v. NOT coil output which is typically 30k , 35k or 45k.

I was also unaware that you had checked and verified spark at the plugs.

SO that means

1) we have spark at the plugs and you can see it right? if yes this changes everything

2) lets make one last fuel test because now we have spark. Take some clean fresh fuel in a jar and pour a bit less than a 1/2 oz or so (a shot glass is perfect) pour a portion of the fuel down each carb barrel until there is none left in the shot glass. Get in the car and hold 1/4 throttle count to 15 then crank it over. It should run and stay alive for at least 5 seconds.

3) if after doing 3 you get nothing then its almost certainly a timing issue, timing chain skipped, dizzy skipped a tooth, dizzy is loose and rotated far enough retard the engine to the point where it wont start.... if you are sure the spark is hot at each plug then and 2 did nothing then look to here to 3
__________________

Masters of Industrial Technology intelligence thats why I own guns made to drop elephants.
Gun Jam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2014, 08:58 PM   #15
barnett468
3rd Gear Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Vehicle: 1965 shelby
Location: arizona
Posts: 672
Default

hello;

umm, check the timing. the pin on the distributor gear might have sheared or the gears might have broken.

remove number 1 plug.

hold a ling thin screw driver in the hole while someone competent rotates the engine until the screw driver goes up then just starts to go down.

back the engine up around 5 degrees.

if the timing mark is off by 40 degrees or more your chain jumped.
.
barnett468 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2014, 09:31 PM   #16
Chromeshadow
3rd Gear Member
 
Chromeshadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Vehicle: 2012 Mustang Premium 3.7 6 Speed Manual
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 524
Default

Have you checked all of the vacuum lines? Run a Vacuum test? Could be a simple as a broken rubber hose. Another thing to check on these engines is the wire from the distributor to the coil. This flexes every time the distributor rotates due to vacuum or centrifical advance. They can break inside and look good. If you grab wire in the middle and give it a good pull it will stretch if the inside wire is broken. Sometimes the insulation will hold the conductor close enough to check OK, but when the engine starts the vibration will cause it to become intermittent.
__________________
2012 Mustang Premium 6 speed Manual
Starkey Fog Lights
5 spoke chrome American Muscle 18" x 9" wheels
Nitto 255/45ZR18 Tires
H&R Sport Front and Rear Sway Bar
J&M lower control arms
TMI adjustable tilt headrests
Gaslock LED Shift ****
Shelby door subs
Sony 200W amp

2009 Solstice GXP Turbo
2013 F150 XLT 4X4
Chromeshadow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2014, 01:23 PM   #17
jckinthebox
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Vehicle: 1968 Ford Mustang
Location: Maryland
Posts: 12
Default

For anyone who is looking for an answer we had checked just about everything and drained to oil to find antifreeze coming out. As far as im concerned this is almost definitely a manifold or head gasket so we are currently tearing down the top end for a clean and rebuild. Will post after updating whether or not this has fixed the issue.
jckinthebox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2014, 05:14 PM   #18
barnett468
3rd Gear Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Vehicle: 1965 shelby
Location: arizona
Posts: 672
Default

hello;

if your intake is chinese they do not fit well.
barnett468 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2014, 12:42 AM   #19
Gun Jam
Moderator
 
Gun Jam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 4,363
Send a message via ICQ to Gun Jam Send a message via AIM to Gun Jam Send a message via Yahoo to Gun Jam
Default

Does it not fire at all?

If you have okay compression in all cylinder it should run probably even without a head gasket for a few seconds...it should do something.

If the intake gasket were missing it should also run for a few seconds when you pour fuel down the carb it would run ****ty in both cases but it would run.

You say you have:

spark

Fuel

Air

Compression

all thats left is timing

If its not doing anything then I am of the opinion that either you are mistaken about one of the above or it really is timing.

If it was just running and died typically its spark, fuel, or timing.

Intake gaskets and head gaskets are usually a slow death where you run around chasing your tail as they get worse until you have an Ah-ha! moment.

I bet if it pulled the intake off and dumped fuel down the intake runners on the head and cranked it over it would run for an instant or at least break its self.

If it does nothing...I would re-investigate the former go back to basics...


Just my thoughts

-Gun
__________________

Masters of Industrial Technology intelligence thats why I own guns made to drop elephants.
Gun Jam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2014, 12:42 AM
MustangForums
Ford Mustang




Paid Advertisement

 
 
 
Reply

Tags
390, idle, stall

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
New Sponsors
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:15 AM.

© Internet Brands, Inc.


This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company
Emails Backup