Gun Jam

6) pull the cap off the distributor and crank the engine over does the rotor spin if no then its a stripped dizzy gear...also a very very easy test and a hypothesis that 100% fits the symptoms this is a very likely culprit...and takes about 3 min to check.

jckinthebox

I apologize if Im making it seem like im disregarding your suggsetions.

1. yes pulled the covers and all valves seemed to be in order.

2 the reasoning behind the new coil was that the secondary coil was reading over 14000 ohms of resistance which by my research is too high.

3. I agree completely however I test the resistance of the new one before it went in and checked spark at the plugs after installation which was why i believed it to be functional.

5. I will give it a try tonight

And I was asking which wire haha im assuming you mean the high tension lead going to the distributor but wasnt sure

Once again really appreciate the input,
Jack

Derf00

still running points/condenser system or electronic? If Old school, could be the condenser is going out - heats up then fails, cools down and is fine. Electronic could be the control module is getting overly hot and failing until it cools down.

Fuel Vapor Lock, again, heats up and boils/vaporizes the fuel in the fuel line until it cools and recondenses. If it just started heating up in your area and this problem started about the same time, those are the things I'd look at first.

Gun Jam

I am unfamiliar with whatever system uses a secondary coil. By coil voltage I meant what normally would be power to the coil typically 6 ,9 or 12v. NOT coil output which is typically 30k , 35k or 45k.

I was also unaware that you had checked and verified spark at the plugs.

SO that means

1) we have spark at the plugs and you can see it right? if yes this changes everything

2) lets make one last fuel test because now we have spark. Take some clean fresh fuel in a jar and pour a bit less than a 1/2 oz or so (a shot glass is perfect) pour a portion of the fuel down each carb barrel until there is none left in the shot glass. Get in the car and hold 1/4 throttle count to 15 then crank it over. It should run and stay alive for at least 5 seconds.

3) if after doing 3 you get nothing then its almost certainly a timing issue, timing chain skipped, dizzy skipped a tooth, dizzy is loose and rotated far enough retard the engine to the point where it wont start.... if you are sure the spark is hot at each plug then and 2 did nothing then look to here to 3

barnett468

hello;

umm, check the timing. the pin on the distributor gear might have sheared or the gears might have broken.

remove number 1 plug.

hold a ling thin screw driver in the hole while someone competent rotates the engine until the screw driver goes up then just starts to go down.

back the engine up around 5 degrees.

if the timing mark is off by 40 degrees or more your chain jumped.
.

Chromeshadow

Have you checked all of the vacuum lines? Run a Vacuum test? Could be a simple as a broken rubber hose. Another thing to check on these engines is the wire from the distributor to the coil. This flexes every time the distributor rotates due to vacuum or centrifical advance. They can break inside and look good. If you grab wire in the middle and give it a good pull it will stretch if the inside wire is broken. Sometimes the insulation will hold the conductor close enough to check OK, but when the engine starts the vibration will cause it to become intermittent.

jckinthebox

For anyone who is looking for an answer we had checked just about everything and drained to oil to find antifreeze coming out. As far as im concerned this is almost definitely a manifold or head gasket so we are currently tearing down the top end for a clean and rebuild. Will post after updating whether or not this has fixed the issue.

barnett468

hello;

if your intake is chinese they do not fit well.

Gun Jam

Does it not fire at all?

If you have okay compression in all cylinder it should run probably even without a head gasket for a few seconds...it should do something.

If the intake gasket were missing it should also run for a few seconds when you pour fuel down the carb it would run ****ty in both cases but it would run.

You say you have:

spark

Fuel

Air

Compression

all thats left is timing

If its not doing anything then I am of the opinion that either you are mistaken about one of the above or it really is timing.

If it was just running and died typically its spark, fuel, or timing.

Intake gaskets and head gaskets are usually a slow death where you run around chasing your tail as they get worse until you have an Ah-ha! moment.

I bet if it pulled the intake off and dumped fuel down the intake runners on the head and cranked it over it would run for an instant or at least break its self.

If it does nothing...I would re-investigate the former go back to basics...


Just my thoughts

-Gun