65mechanic's 65 Mustang Build Thread
10-16-2014, 07:37 AM
#11
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: arizona
Posts: 1,398
Hello;
Looks great so far.
I would call JBA and ask them if their headers clear the plugs on the "p" heads but the JBA's aren't cheap. It looks like the Hedman Elite shorty's will and maybe their other ones too. You can order some from summit and try them on the heads even if you have the engine torn down. Just use plastic or fiber washers under the bolts and make them finger tight so the flange does not get marked up. If they don't work you can return them within 30 days no prob.
Also, many headers other than tri y's will work if you use the shorter Accel plugs and the 90 degree ceramic boots, not the 45 degree ones. Summit sells universal wire sets with these boots. tri y's will not work.
You will need 1 1/2" unless you stroke it in which case you will need bigger tubes.
The p's are definitely better than the std gt40's if you are wanting some hp. They also have big chambers so for a 302 I would mill them to around 60 cc's or .034", which ever comes first. If you back cut the intake, grind down the boss in the exhaust and blend the valve guides a bit they will be decent.
.
Looks great so far.
I would call JBA and ask them if their headers clear the plugs on the "p" heads but the JBA's aren't cheap. It looks like the Hedman Elite shorty's will and maybe their other ones too. You can order some from summit and try them on the heads even if you have the engine torn down. Just use plastic or fiber washers under the bolts and make them finger tight so the flange does not get marked up. If they don't work you can return them within 30 days no prob.
Also, many headers other than tri y's will work if you use the shorter Accel plugs and the 90 degree ceramic boots, not the 45 degree ones. Summit sells universal wire sets with these boots. tri y's will not work.
You will need 1 1/2" unless you stroke it in which case you will need bigger tubes.
The p's are definitely better than the std gt40's if you are wanting some hp. They also have big chambers so for a 302 I would mill them to around 60 cc's or .034", which ever comes first. If you back cut the intake, grind down the boss in the exhaust and blend the valve guides a bit they will be decent.
.
Last edited by barnett468; 10-16-2014 at 07:48 AM.
10-16-2014, 04:35 PM
#12
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 167
Hello;
Looks great so far.
I would call JBA and ask them if their headers clear the plugs on the "p" heads but the JBA's aren't cheap. It looks like the Hedman Elite shorty's will and maybe their other ones too. You can order some from summit and try them on the heads even if you have the engine torn down. Just use plastic or fiber washers under the bolts and make them finger tight so the flange does not get marked up. If they don't work you can return them within 30 days no prob.
Also, many headers other than tri y's will work if you use the shorter Accel plugs and the 90 degree ceramic boots, not the 45 degree ones. Summit sells universal wire sets with these boots. tri y's will not work.
You will need 1 1/2" unless you stroke it in which case you will need bigger tubes.
The p's are definitely better than the std gt40's if you are wanting some hp. They also have big chambers so for a 302 I would mill them to around 60 cc's or .034", which ever comes first. If you back cut the intake, grind down the boss in the exhaust and blend the valve guides a bit they will be decent.
.
Looks great so far.
I would call JBA and ask them if their headers clear the plugs on the "p" heads but the JBA's aren't cheap. It looks like the Hedman Elite shorty's will and maybe their other ones too. You can order some from summit and try them on the heads even if you have the engine torn down. Just use plastic or fiber washers under the bolts and make them finger tight so the flange does not get marked up. If they don't work you can return them within 30 days no prob.
Also, many headers other than tri y's will work if you use the shorter Accel plugs and the 90 degree ceramic boots, not the 45 degree ones. Summit sells universal wire sets with these boots. tri y's will not work.
You will need 1 1/2" unless you stroke it in which case you will need bigger tubes.
The p's are definitely better than the std gt40's if you are wanting some hp. They also have big chambers so for a 302 I would mill them to around 60 cc's or .034", which ever comes first. If you back cut the intake, grind down the boss in the exhaust and blend the valve guides a bit they will be decent.
.
10-17-2014, 12:04 AM
#14
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 4,462
My car has a Versailles rear axle. There was no need to relocate spring perches. I'm not sure about any 1 inch off center issues with it. We didn't notice any. The parking brake is a pain. The trick is once you get it adjusted to keep your foot on the brake when releasing the parking brake. That keeps it adjusted.
10-17-2014, 07:35 AM
#15
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 167
My car has a Versailles rear axle. There was no need to relocate spring perches. I'm not sure about any 1 inch off center issues with it. We didn't notice any. The parking brake is a pain. The trick is once you get it adjusted to keep your foot on the brake when releasing the parking brake. That keeps it adjusted.
10-18-2014, 04:48 AM
#16
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 4,462
Yeah, I agree. I'm probably going with some trickflow heads. I think I'll have too much time and money invested in the P heads for what they'll give me power-wise. I'm sure they can be great for what they are and modified, I'm sure someone could get some decent power out of them. But for my project I'll be going a different route. I sold my 2000 GT to fund the project so I've got some extra spending money.
I am looking for a good drop in rear end. I can do some fabrication, but I'd prefer to have something that's already been designed and tested and not have to worry about pinion angle and centering the diff. I'm actually not even sure what rear end the car has in it now. We got it from a local junkyard a goood while back. It might be an 8". I'll snap some pictures and try and find a axle tag.
I am looking for a good drop in rear end. I can do some fabrication, but I'd prefer to have something that's already been designed and tested and not have to worry about pinion angle and centering the diff. I'm actually not even sure what rear end the car has in it now. We got it from a local junkyard a goood while back. It might be an 8". I'll snap some pictures and try and find a axle tag.
10-18-2014, 08:32 AM
#17
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 167
10-21-2014, 05:22 PM
#18
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 167
Little update for y'all, after I tore down the motor to just the long block, I got to looking around on the block while I was spinning it around on my engine stand and it ended up having a broken motor mount "nub". The explorer it came out of was in a really bad wreck and I assume it broke in the wreck. Also found out the upper intake was cracked... sooo, long story short, the salvage yard honored a warranty on the motor and a "new" 98 motor is sitting at my bud's shop as we speak. So hopefully I'll get back on it asap.
Here's some pictures of the carnage.
Here's some pictures of the carnage.
10-23-2014, 03:38 PM
#20
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 167