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65mechanic's 65 Mustang Build Thread

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Old 07-20-2014, 08:39 PM   #1
65mechanic
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Default 65mechanic's 65 Mustang Build Thread

Whats up guys. I've been beating around the bush trying to get together a plan to get a latemodel 5.0 in my 65, so I'm gonna start a "build thread" on the process so I can ask y'all some questions with out starting a new thread for every single question, and post up pictures of the process so others can learn from it (and my mistakes). The car has already been restored so this will almost start as a build for just the drive-train and supporting components.

What I've got so far: 65 Coupe, R&C Mustang II Suspension, I believe 7.5 rear end?, (200CI and 3 speed going away forever)

What my plans are: 87+ 5.0, Fuel Injected, T-5, 8.8 or 9 Inch rear

For now, I'm staying on the cheaper side of things, so a stroker kit or any kinda aspiration isn't in the budget. I'm no car genius by any means, I've got plenty to learn, but I've got the basics down. I'm going to get some new pictures of the car, and what I've got to work with, tomorrow, to hopefully keep you guys motivated to help me out

Thanks in advance for the help/suggestions guys.
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Old 07-20-2014, 09:14 PM   #2
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sweeeeeeeet. Always up to a new build thread. Keep us posted, sounds like it will be a fun car.
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Old 07-20-2014, 10:24 PM   #3
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hi

cool.

heres some info to start. a lincoln versailles 9" rear end will sit 1" off center in your car so you need to move the sporing perches.

an explorer 8.8 rear will have the pumpkin a few inches off so you need to shorten the driver side axle tube and run a passenger side axle in the driver side.

no need for a stroker, a 351 windsor should fit nicely though its a bit tight by the steering box. they are cheap from the grave yards.
.
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Old 07-21-2014, 09:43 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by barnett468 View Post
hi

cool.

heres some info to start. a lincoln versailles 9" rear end will sit 1" off center in your car so you need to move the sporing perches.

an explorer 8.8 rear will have the pumpkin a few inches off so you need to shorten the driver side axle tube and run a passenger side axle in the driver side.

no need for a stroker, a 351 windsor should fit nicely though its a bit tight by the steering box. they are cheap from the grave yards.
.
Not sure if you read my whole post too closely or not, but my plans are a 302. Engine clearance won't be an issue because I've got the Mustang II front suspension already, like said above. Thanks for the other info though!
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Old 07-21-2014, 01:15 PM   #5
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I second your decision to go with a 5.0. My personal choice would be carburetion in place of fuel injection, even though the injection would be more efficient. T-5 is a good choice and easy enough to install. Don't know about the Versailles rear axle, as I've had several issues installing one in a 1965-66, even though an offset pumpkin was not noticed in the several I installed. Relocating spring pads was not necessary in my fit-ups. Parking brake setup is a nightmare. The 8.8" axle seems to be somewhat in favor, even though I've never felt that the 8.8" was better than a 9", and the 9" install is really straightforward. Even with budget restrictions, I would locate and install a correct 9" or even an 8" unless you plan to really rip and snort with the car.
The 351W is my favorite power plant; however, with the really tight fit in the 1965, I would not consider it a candidate.
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Old 07-21-2014, 04:30 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Newman View Post
I second your decision to go with a 5.0. My personal choice would be carburetion in place of fuel injection, even though the injection would be more efficient. T-5 is a good choice and easy enough to install. Don't know about the Versailles rear axle, as I've had several issues installing one in a 1965-66, even though an offset pumpkin was not noticed in the several I installed. Relocating spring pads was not necessary in my fit-ups. Parking brake setup is a nightmare. The 8.8" axle seems to be somewhat in favor, even though I've never felt that the 8.8" was better than a 9", and the 9" install is really straightforward. Even with budget restrictions, I would locate and install a correct 9" or even an 8" unless you plan to really rip and snort with the car.
The 351W is my favorite power plant; however, with the really tight fit in the 1965, I would not consider it a candidate.
Best,
Al
Looking towards the future, I can see some extra ponies, so I think I'll overbuild now, and go with a correct fit 9". Not sure if y'all are seeing it or not, but fitment really isn't an issue, with the Mustang II front suspension. But y'all do keep mentioning a 351 and its kinda making me do some thinking. I have heard a 351 is a scad taller, but I wouldn't mind a cowl hood on this car.
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Old 07-21-2014, 04:39 PM   #7
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Thankfully snapped some pictures this morning before work, cause it starting raining cats and dogs as soon as I got home. It's a shame I'm pulling the cool little 200 I6, but it just aint quite scratching the itch
Attached Images
File Type: jpg photo 5 (1).jpg (27.4 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg photo 4 (3).jpg (42.6 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg photo 3 (4).jpg (44.2 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg photo 2 (4).jpg (44.5 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg photo 1 (3).jpg (43.2 KB, 11 views)
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Old 07-21-2014, 06:34 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65mechanic View Post
Not sure if you read my whole post too closely or not, but my plans are a 302. Engine clearance won't be an issue because I've got the Mustang II front suspension already, like said above. Thanks for the other info though!
hello;

yes i did read it and also read that you mentiined a stroker but your budget would not allow it and also memtioned that you were not a car genius so i thought i would mention that you can put a windsor in their for near the same money and have your "stroker" but one that is much better because manny do not realize a 351 will fit.
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Old 07-21-2014, 06:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barnett468 View Post
hello;

yes i did read it and also read that you mentiined a stroker but your budget would not allow it and also memtioned that you were not a car genius so i thought i would mention that you can put a windsor in their for near the same money and have your "stroker" but one that is much better because manny do not realize a 351 will fit.
.
Gotcha man. Thanks..
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Old 10-16-2014, 06:34 AM   #10
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Alright guys. This has kinda drug on cause I'm always slow with my projects, but here's a little update with the build.

Finally got this hunk of crap out.





After I got the motor out, I pressure washed the entire engine bay, underside of the car, and all around the suspension, etc. Too many spiders made their homes in my car > Got her back into the garage and it sat for a while. Ordered up a new pair of motor mounts cause I'll probably have to hack up my old ones I welded in.

Rod and Custom Motorsport Mustang II 289/302 Motor Mounts. Shiny



From there, I went on the hunt for a good 302/T-5. I found a few on car-part but never got around to finding a decent mileage motor. Then my buddy calls me a couple weeks later saying he bought a 99 Explorer motor for his 66 Coupe and he'll be doing a swap out with the old 289 in the car :/ So I kept looking and looking, and about a month later he calls me up and offers up the motor for sale. I jumped on it quick as I could, and he even cut the shipping cost he had to pay the salvage yard. So here she is after I brought it home.

99 Explorer 5.0 with GT40p Heads.










I'll most likely start tearing it down this weekend, and I'll be sure to take some pictures. The P heads will probably come off, unless I can find a really good deal on some P head specific headers.
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Old 10-16-2014, 07:37 AM   #11
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Hello;

Looks great so far.

I would call JBA and ask them if their headers clear the plugs on the "p" heads but the JBA's aren't cheap. It looks like the Hedman Elite shorty's will and maybe their other ones too. You can order some from summit and try them on the heads even if you have the engine torn down. Just use plastic or fiber washers under the bolts and make them finger tight so the flange does not get marked up. If they don't work you can return them within 30 days no prob.

Also, many headers other than tri y's will work if you use the shorter Accel plugs and the 90 degree ceramic boots, not the 45 degree ones. Summit sells universal wire sets with these boots. tri y's will not work.

You will need 1 1/2" unless you stroke it in which case you will need bigger tubes.

The p's are definitely better than the std gt40's if you are wanting some hp. They also have big chambers so for a 302 I would mill them to around 60 cc's or .034", which ever comes first. If you back cut the intake, grind down the boss in the exhaust and blend the valve guides a bit they will be decent.
.

Last edited by barnett468; 10-16-2014 at 07:48 AM.
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Old 10-16-2014, 04:35 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barnett468 View Post
Hello;

Looks great so far.

I would call JBA and ask them if their headers clear the plugs on the "p" heads but the JBA's aren't cheap. It looks like the Hedman Elite shorty's will and maybe their other ones too. You can order some from summit and try them on the heads even if you have the engine torn down. Just use plastic or fiber washers under the bolts and make them finger tight so the flange does not get marked up. If they don't work you can return them within 30 days no prob.

Also, many headers other than tri y's will work if you use the shorter Accel plugs and the 90 degree ceramic boots, not the 45 degree ones. Summit sells universal wire sets with these boots. tri y's will not work.

You will need 1 1/2" unless you stroke it in which case you will need bigger tubes.

The p's are definitely better than the std gt40's if you are wanting some hp. They also have big chambers so for a 302 I would mill them to around 60 cc's or .034", which ever comes first. If you back cut the intake, grind down the boss in the exhaust and blend the valve guides a bit they will be decent.
.
Thanks for the information and insight my friend! Chances are I'll most likely plunk down a chunk of change and get some twisted wedge heads, probably trick flow, and sell the upper/lower intake/heads combo to give back a little cash towards the new heads. I'll keep y'all updated.
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Old 10-16-2014, 11:55 PM   #13
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I'd look for heads that work regular headers. The P heads caused a lot of grief for a friend of mine. So much so, that he abandoned his project.
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Old 10-17-2014, 12:04 AM   #14
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My car has a Versailles rear axle. There was no need to relocate spring perches. I'm not sure about any 1 inch off center issues with it. We didn't notice any. The parking brake is a pain. The trick is once you get it adjusted to keep your foot on the brake when releasing the parking brake. That keeps it adjusted.
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Old 10-17-2014, 07:35 AM   #15
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I'd look for heads that work regular headers. The P heads caused a lot of grief for a friend of mine. So much so, that he abandoned his project.
Yeah, I agree. I'm probably going with some trickflow heads. I think I'll have too much time and money invested in the P heads for what they'll give me power-wise. I'm sure they can be great for what they are and modified, I'm sure someone could get some decent power out of them. But for my project I'll be going a different route. I sold my 2000 GT to fund the project so I've got some extra spending money.

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My car has a Versailles rear axle. There was no need to relocate spring perches. I'm not sure about any 1 inch off center issues with it. We didn't notice any. The parking brake is a pain. The trick is once you get it adjusted to keep your foot on the brake when releasing the parking brake. That keeps it adjusted.
I am looking for a good drop in rear end. I can do some fabrication, but I'd prefer to have something that's already been designed and tested and not have to worry about pinion angle and centering the diff. I'm actually not even sure what rear end the car has in it now. We got it from a local junkyard a goood while back. It might be an 8". I'll snap some pictures and try and find a axle tag.
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Old 10-18-2014, 04:48 AM   #16
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Quote:
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Yeah, I agree. I'm probably going with some trickflow heads. I think I'll have too much time and money invested in the P heads for what they'll give me power-wise. I'm sure they can be great for what they are and modified, I'm sure someone could get some decent power out of them. But for my project I'll be going a different route. I sold my 2000 GT to fund the project so I've got some extra spending money.



I am looking for a good drop in rear end. I can do some fabrication, but I'd prefer to have something that's already been designed and tested and not have to worry about pinion angle and centering the diff. I'm actually not even sure what rear end the car has in it now. We got it from a local junkyard a goood while back. It might be an 8". I'll snap some pictures and try and find a axle tag.
If you already have an 8 inch, you might just want to keep it and upgrade it to the gearing you want with traction lock.
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Old 10-18-2014, 08:32 AM   #17
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If you already have an 8 inch, you might just want to keep it and upgrade it to the gearing you want with traction lock.
I agree. I'm not building a monster, but I dont wanna have issues with the rear end not being able to hold up. My bud's 02 GT just snapped a stock 8.8 axle. Although he was on 28 inch slicks @ 8psi on 10 psi of boost launching at 5200 rpms
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Old 10-21-2014, 05:22 PM   #18
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Little update for y'all, after I tore down the motor to just the long block, I got to looking around on the block while I was spinning it around on my engine stand and it ended up having a broken motor mount "nub". The explorer it came out of was in a really bad wreck and I assume it broke in the wreck. Also found out the upper intake was cracked... sooo, long story short, the salvage yard honored a warranty on the motor and a "new" 98 motor is sitting at my bud's shop as we speak. So hopefully I'll get back on it asap.

Here's some pictures of the carnage.







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Old 10-23-2014, 02:51 PM   #19
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subscribing to this build for a few reasons.
One is I believe you are the same 65mechanic as on F150forum and I really like your truck.
Trav
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Old 10-23-2014, 03:38 PM   #20
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subscribing to this build for a few reasons.
One is I believe you are the same 65mechanic as on F150forum and I really like your truck.
Trav
Yeah. Haha. Thanks man! You got me.
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Old 10-23-2014, 03:38 PM
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