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Old 09-04-2014, 06:06 PM   #1
MonsterBilly
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Default Alignment Specs

An someone post up the alignments specs that may help my ride. I have

66 mustang
Borgensen power box
620 1" drop springs
UCA drop

I drive it on the street only it is really off and I need help.

thanks
B

also, 17x8 wheels front and back
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66 coupe, Tuff Dawg forged 10.5:1 - 331, T5, TRick Flow heads, Stealth Intake, Holley 670 Street Avenger, Centerforce Clutch, Headman Headers, Ford Motorsports E303 Cam, 8.8 explorer rear end .373 gears, Cobra 4 wheel disc brakes, 17" TT2's
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:12 PM   #2
67mustang302
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~ +3.5 caster, really anywhere from +2.5-4.5, whatever you can get away with based on adjustment/clearance etc.

~ -0.5 camber, add or remove based on tire wear depending on how you drive it

A tiny hair of toe-in

Do NOT let an alignment shop cross caster or cross camber to account for road crown, the suspension on Classics is HIGHLY intolerant of asymmetric alignment and will pull quite a bit with even a minor variance.
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Untested 331, lots of suspension, chewing up corners.
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:33 PM   #3
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thank you sir
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:58 PM   #4
barnett468
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hello;

how wide are your tires?

is it just a cruiser and not a racer?

do you go to the saturday nite show in scottsdale?

if you are driving mostly on roads that have a crown the right side spec will be different from the left side.


flat roads, basic cruising.

positive caster 1.5 - 2 degrees.

negative camber .3 to .5

toe in 3/16" - 1/4"
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Old 09-04-2014, 09:52 PM   #5
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Billy, I have almost your same setup on my 67 and I run 67mustang302's alignment specs (2.7* camber, -0.3* camber, ~1/8" toe-in) and I'm pretty happy with it. Corners really well and tracks very straight. I ran -0.5* camber for a while and backed it off a bit because I was noticing some excess tire wear on the outside front tires. Still, I'd recommend starting with -0.5* camber and seeing how it works for you.
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Old 09-05-2014, 04:25 PM   #6
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Sorry, don't mean to hijack your thread B, but curious, what's the max caster you can run reliably without binding the ball joints during articulation of the suspension? I've got darn close to what's been mentioned here, 1* camber, 2+* caster, and 1/8" toe. Second, its my understanding that toe out is better than toe in for a corner carver, is that true?. . .Something about the inside wheel helping to rotate the car in a turn with a little tow out, instead of fighting against a turn with tow in.
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Old 09-05-2014, 04:36 PM   #7
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I don't think you'd ever get to a caster setting that would bind the ball joints. It would easily be past 10*. As for toe in/out. For a race only car then yes we run toe out as it does give a bit firmer feel going in the corner. If you want to carve corners and you lowered the car, you'd get better performance by getting the camber curves and bump steer correct and then set toe a bit out, maybe an 8th. This would also be assuming you get rid of all the squishy rubber parts and put in urethane, graphite or went to heim joints to keep it from toeing out even more under load.
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Old 09-05-2014, 05:24 PM   #8
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The big problem with too much caster is the steering can get really difficult and you can get steering wheel kick when you hit bumps. Toe out helps with steering response on turn in and can provide a more favorable Ackerman angle, but gives the car a tendency to wander a bit more in a straight line. I prefer setting toe to ~1/16 in max for the street, just a hair to help with straight line stability without compromising turn in too much.

For Classics, it's hard to have "too much caster," since you tend to run out of adjustment range before it gets to being crazy excessive. However, it will effect steering difficulty and how much the wheel kicks in your hand. So for manual you tend to want to stay around +2-2.5 max and with power steering you can get away with more. Extra positive caster can also be harder on steering components too.

Really with caster what you're doing is providing straight line stability, adding wheel return to center, and improving camber curves while turning (since more caster creates more favorable camber of the inner and outer wheels). So if you had +1 or 1.5 and the car was stable, handled well (camber curves where they should be) and the wheel returned to center well....they you don't really need more.
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Old 09-05-2014, 06:10 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by groho View Post
I've got darn close to what's been mentioned here, 1* camber, 2+* caster, and 1/8" toe. Second, its my understanding that toe out is better than toe in for a corner carver, is that true?. . .Something about the inside wheel helping to rotate the car in a turn with a little tow out, instead of fighting against a turn with tow in.
in addition to the answers above, the most caster you can get from a mustang arm is around 5 degrees. you can buy special arms from maier racing and others that provide more caster.


if you are turning one direction only like in nascar, you would run a split caster. the outside wheel would be forward of the inside wheel.

i would .love to see them race the short oval track in the opposite direction, lol.
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Old 09-06-2014, 02:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
i would .love to see them race the short oval track in the opposite direction, lol.
Nope, don't wanna do it... can't make me :-)

Left turn only cars are ugly in right turns, due to the caster split and a host of other things. My car is set at about 3 degrees split now. When you add in the left side weight bias and the huge amount of rear brake bias we run, turning right and braking is the scariest damn thing we have to do. That's why you see them spin when missing a car to their left, or correcting to the right. Only time I want to be steering right is coming off the corner and keeping the tail behind the front :-)
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Old 09-06-2014, 02:36 PM
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