Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

1966 smokes white and black smoke

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Old 11-20-2014, 04:32 PM
  #11  
bop11
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15 minutes is not long enough to boil out the water that has collected in the oil from condensation. You need to drive it until it is thoroughly warmed up, and then another 15 to 20 nminutes After warm up, you need to run it out on a high way. That black smoke when accelerating is carbon in the exhaust. Kids use to do this all the time when they borrowed their grandmothers cars. If it hasn't been pushed it will carbon up. Today's engines are much different with all their control stuff.
If you see a small cloud of blueish smoke after waiting at a stop light and then accelerating, that is a sure sign of valve guides and seals. If you shift down from a high speed with engine braking, and you get blue smoke that is the sign of bad rings.
As was stated, white smoke for a few minutes after starting is probably condensation in the exhaust pipes. That is what rots out the mufflers.
Next time you go for a drive, don't baby it! After warm-up, pull some power. These V8's were not made to idle around town.
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Old 11-20-2014, 06:53 PM
  #12  
racer_dave
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You're not helping it by starting it once a month, you're hurting it. If you're not going to drive it then set it up to store it for the off season. By starting it you're burning off the condensation, heating everything up and then turning it off, which will make more condensation on the warm parts which will encourage rust, especially on the exhaust.

So for the off season, stabilize the fuel, make sure the coolant is good. Park it, put it on blocks/jackstands and leave it alone. When I store the racecar over the winter I even go so far as to release the pressure off the valve springs so the valves stay closed, limiting air transfer. I also loosen the accessories to take the tension off the belts. You can oil the cylinder walls if you want as well.
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Old 11-20-2014, 07:36 PM
  #13  
150ron
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Originally Posted by Chromeshadow
Did the blue smoke start when you took off the smog stuff? Does it smoke if you take off the oil filler cap?
No, its been there for a while, when i start up the car there is lots of black smoke/sludge that comes out you mean does it smoke from the oil filler cap if i remove it while the car runs?

Originally Posted by bop11
15 minutes is not long enough to boil out the water that has collected in the oil from condensation. You need to drive it until it is thoroughly warmed up, and then another 15 to 20 nminutes After warm up, you need to run it out on a high way. That black smoke when accelerating is carbon in the exhaust. Kids use to do this all the time when they borrowed their grandmothers cars. If it hasn't been pushed it will carbon up. Today's engines are much different with all their control stuff.
If you see a small cloud of blueish smoke after waiting at a stop light and then accelerating, that is a sure sign of valve guides and seals. If you shift down from a high speed with engine braking, and you get blue smoke that is the sign of bad rings.
As was stated, white smoke for a few minutes after starting is probably condensation in the exhaust pipes. That is what rots out the mufflers.
Next time you go for a drive, don't baby it! After warm-up, pull some power. These V8's were not made to idle around town.
Yeah, i need to do this, the car has been non op for the past 10+ years, so i take it easy in the neighborhood, we moved last year and i drove it 15 miles at 55 mph and noticed it had some pretty good power, more power then me new honda accord, which is impressive for being almost 50 years old, i notice if i press it down, thats when the black smoke is behind me, i think you are right and it does in fact need to be pushed hard to clear all the gunk out.

Gotta admit, for being almost 50 years old, it still goes pretty good IMO.
Originally Posted by racer_dave
You're not helping it by starting it once a month, you're hurting it. If you're not going to drive it then set it up to store it for the off season. By starting it you're burning off the condensation, heating everything up and then turning it off, which will make more condensation on the warm parts which will encourage rust, especially on the exhaust.

So for the off season, stabilize the fuel, make sure the coolant is good. Park it, put it on blocks/jackstands and leave it alone. When I store the racecar over the winter I even go so far as to release the pressure off the valve springs so the valves stay closed, limiting air transfer. I also loosen the accessories to take the tension off the belts. You can oil the cylinder walls if you want as well.
Hi, im in SoCal, so there is no off season here, its either hot, or less hot, lol

Ive been told to drive it at least every 2 weeks or so, otherwise everything will dry out like the gaskets and crack, and by me driving it, it keeps everything lubed up and circulating.

Its a tough car.
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Old 11-21-2014, 10:10 AM
  #14  
racer_dave
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Hi, im in SoCal, so there is no off season here, its either hot, or less hot, lol
I'm in Michigan and used to live in Buffalo- I have no point of reference for this place called 'California' Where there is an ambient temperature that is considered 'hot' :-)
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Old 11-21-2014, 10:21 PM
  #15  
barnett468
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Originally Posted by racer_dave
I'm in Michigan and used to live in Buffalo- I have no point of reference for this place called 'California' Where there is an ambient temperature that is considered 'hot' :-)
California weather termninology definition.

Hot = over 90

Less hot = 75

Cold equals = 70

Snow = Something we see on the big screen tv that is happening elsewhere while we sit around drinking frosty beverages while it is..."less hot" here.


Today it was almost "cold" so I had to put on a T shirt and long pants before I went outside to mow the lawn...Monday it will be almost "hot" so we probably won't use the Jacuzzi...Maybe we'll turn the air conditioner on and just sit around drinking more frosty beverages while we watch snow on the big screen tv.
.

Last edited by barnett468; 11-22-2014 at 11:12 AM.
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Old 11-22-2014, 07:37 AM
  #16  
Chromeshadow
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Originally Posted by Chromeshadow View Post
Did the blue smoke start when you took off the smog stuff? Does it smoke if you take off the oil filler cap?
Some of the old smog stuff probably included a PVC valve or a oil filler cap with a filter to allow the air pressure in the engine to breath so it does not force the oil back though the rings. When the pistons move they create compression inside the cylinders, and (not as much) in the crankcase. If this is sealed off, your car will have blue smoke. Taking off the oil filler cap is a quick way to see if this is the prob.
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Old 11-22-2014, 04:39 PM
  #17  
150ron
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Originally Posted by barnett468
California weather termninology definition.

Hot = over 90

Less hot = 75

Cold equals = 70

Snow = Something we see on the big screen tv that is happening elsewhere while we sit around drinking frosty beverages while it is..."less hot" here.


Today it was almost "cold" so I had to put on a T shirt and long pants before I went outside to mow the lawn...Monday it will be almost "hot" so we probably won't use the Jacuzzi...Maybe we'll turn the air conditioner on and just sit around drinking more frosty beverages while we watch snow on the big screen tv.
.
LOL, this forum needs a LIKE button!

Non of this stuff around here, i think if it gets in the 50's they declare a state of emergency and police cars roll down the streets with sirens blasting to ''STAY INDOORS''

Originally Posted by Chromeshadow
Some of the old smog stuff probably included a PVC valve or a oil filler cap with a filter to allow the air pressure in the engine to breath so it does not force the oil back though the rings. When the pistons move they create compression inside the cylinders, and (not as much) in the crankcase. If this is sealed off, your car will have blue smoke. Taking off the oil filler cap is a quick way to see if this is the prob.
Even when the smog stuff was on, it was always smoking, is the oil filler cap that round thing that is connected to the air filter base?
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Old 11-22-2014, 05:43 PM
  #18  
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Sounds like- it's the round metal cap on the valve cover, may have a rubber hose to the air filter. There should also be a PVC valve that is about the size of a spark plug that plugs into a rubber grommet in the valve cover and has a rubber hose that goes to the air filter.
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