68 Mustang crash... Fixable?
#21
The Dynacorn replacement metal parts are actually as good, or better than original. They use a more modern steel (that's actually high quality) and some of the parts are a little heavier gauge than stock parts. Also comes with a weld through primer. I wouldn't trust much of the other new stuff though, since it's usually cheap metal and thin parts.
Also, even a total ball of tangled metal of a wreck can be "fixed." You can buy everything you need to assemble an entirely new chassis from scratch these days. Dynacorn even sells whole assembled chassis for fastbacks and verts, but they're not cheap.
Have it towed to an alignment shop and thrown on a rack. If the alignment is off then you know there's some kind of structural damage. Chances are the strut rod mountings are going to have to be replaced etc. Also, since the door is shoved back you need to check and make sure that it's just the door that moved on the mounts and not the unibody section between the front and rear frame rails or that the front frame rails haven't torn loose from the unibody under the driver's compartment.
And for good measure, you might want to invest in some defensive/performance driving classes (if you can find any in your area). Not only can they teach you to drive your car harder, but they can teach you methods to avoid other people's stupidity. Unfortunately defensive driving is just not taught as part of normal driver's training. Some insurance companies may also give a discount if you've had formal driver's training of some sort.
Also, even a total ball of tangled metal of a wreck can be "fixed." You can buy everything you need to assemble an entirely new chassis from scratch these days. Dynacorn even sells whole assembled chassis for fastbacks and verts, but they're not cheap.
Have it towed to an alignment shop and thrown on a rack. If the alignment is off then you know there's some kind of structural damage. Chances are the strut rod mountings are going to have to be replaced etc. Also, since the door is shoved back you need to check and make sure that it's just the door that moved on the mounts and not the unibody section between the front and rear frame rails or that the front frame rails haven't torn loose from the unibody under the driver's compartment.
And for good measure, you might want to invest in some defensive/performance driving classes (if you can find any in your area). Not only can they teach you to drive your car harder, but they can teach you methods to avoid other people's stupidity. Unfortunately defensive driving is just not taught as part of normal driver's training. Some insurance companies may also give a discount if you've had formal driver's training of some sort.
#22
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actually hust for general info, the dynacorn material is total c__p . . i have been a dynacorn dealer for around 20 years and dynacorn used to have us test fit some of the panels prior to them finalizing them . . the reason they are making some panels thicker is because it is far cheaper for them to use more cheap metal than it is to use less high quality metal.
actually hust for general info, the dynacorn material is total c__p . . i have been a dynacorn dealer for around 20 years and dynacorn used to have us test fit some of the panels prior to them finalizing them . . the reason they are making some panels thicker is because it is far cheaper for them to use more cheap metal than it is to use less high quality metal.
Last edited by barnett468; 12-17-2014 at 07:25 PM.
#23
#24
your front frame rails are also bent as well sas your lower front cross frame rail . . i absolutely positively guarantee it
it needs to be straightened on a frame rack which might be around $1,000.00 in your case.
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#25
Well today i took the radiator out and put a new belt on and went to start it up and the fuel pump wouldnt turn on... im gonna have to follow the wire tomorrow. whatever this car takes to fix im gonna do it. so far ive come to a total of $3500 for brand new parts and 1-2k for the frame to be straightened. i might actually get it for free. the college i go to has a bodyshop with a frame straightener
#26
left side original headlite housing $400.00
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/161314231022?lpid=82
right side housing $250.00
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1968-MU...6#ht_22wt_1175
nos grill chrome $230.00
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Ford...7#ht_218wt_938
this is original front valance . . the ford service replacemant paets were black and noit quite as good in some cases . . $400.00
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-67-68-19...#ht_137wt_1175
nos bumper guards $170.00 . . the repos are shinier.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Ford-1967-1968-Mustang-Front-Bumper-Guards-/141264024161?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20e3fdf261&vxp=mtr#ht_234wt_938
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/161314231022?lpid=82
right side housing $250.00
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1968-MU...6#ht_22wt_1175
nos grill chrome $230.00
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Ford...7#ht_218wt_938
this is original front valance . . the ford service replacemant paets were black and noit quite as good in some cases . . $400.00
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-67-68-19...#ht_137wt_1175
nos bumper guards $170.00 . . the repos are shinier.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Ford-1967-1968-Mustang-Front-Bumper-Guards-/141264024161?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20e3fdf261&vxp=mtr#ht_234wt_938
#27
Not sure about Dynacorn in the past, but their current stuff actually does use a good quality steel and is stamped out of the original Ford tooling (where available). It welds really nice with a flux core welder...something that a flux core doesn't do on low quality metals (the impurities and inconsistencies make it spit and pop and run uneven beads). At least that's been on structural components, can't say for certain about body panels, but it stands to reason they'd be using the same metal.
#28
Not sure about Dynacorn in the past, but their current stuff actually does use a good quality steel and is stamped out of the original Ford tooling (where available). It welds really nice with a flux core welder...something that a flux core doesn't do on low quality metals (the impurities and inconsistencies make it spit and pop and run uneven beads). At least that's been on structural components, can't say for certain about body panels, but it stands to reason they'd be using the same metal.
i actually knew a guy that mixed the metal at the foundry that made the metal for all the vehicle mfgs in the 70's and i asked him why mopars are so c__py and rust and he said the metal starts out good then different mfgs have differeny specs for the metal . . fird used the purest metal so theirs was best . .chevy added "cereal fillers" so they could get more yield per ton and chrisler used the most fillers . . for example . . the metal might be $1.00 for 10 lbs and the fillers/additives might be only .20 cents a lb so they can add fillers to get 1 1/4 ;bs of metal for 1.20 instead of 1.50 . . the fillers reduce the structural integrity of the metal and also rust easier.
now, ford made red oxide spoare parts and black promer parts . . the red ones were used for the original cars and were also sold to replace damaged parts . . well they went to black primer and at the same time they changed the metal . . i bought an nos black primer hood for $1,800.00 and i noticed that i could just squeeze it and deform the metal so i weighed it and it was maybe 8 lbs lighter than an originsal goofd, lol.
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Last edited by barnett468; 12-18-2014 at 02:20 PM.
#29
The Ford factory metal from the 60's was quite good. People did seem to care about metallurgy a lot more back then. Stuff today seems to be hit and miss though, especially with newer engineering schooling being based on the idea of "good enough" rather than "make sure it never fails."
There are newer alloys that are light years better than what was available in the 60's, but it's an issue of whether anyone uses it...or if they do, how purely is it alloyed. Some of it isn't even that expensive, but people just choose not to use it for stupid reasons like "because we just don't."
There are newer alloys that are light years better than what was available in the 60's, but it's an issue of whether anyone uses it...or if they do, how purely is it alloyed. Some of it isn't even that expensive, but people just choose not to use it for stupid reasons like "because we just don't."
#30
the insurance company said they'll only pay 50% of the repair bill because i was 50% at fault which is bs because i didnt do anything so i went ahead and called a lawyer. hopefully i can get 9k for the repairs so i can send it to mustang medic in california. they said they can fix it