WestCoastShelby

Are you out to lunch? He just wrote above your post his axle code is a "6" which indicates a 2.80:1 from factory.

Nurdyguy

The trans and axle codes are both code 6, so it's 2.80:1.

WestCoastShelby

The 2.80:1 is great for doing about 80MPH+ on the highway when your Mustang can start getting its revs over 3k, and thats about it.

Gun Jam

I found the 2:80 to be an okay match for the c4 with no OD.....No good with a T5 3:80/4:11 are good for that.

-Gun

barnett468

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ok, forget about your door tag . . your door is cracked and your latch will soon fall out on the griund . . remove the tag and install a door latch reinforcement plate.

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...atKey=EMUSTANG


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barnett468

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ok, forget about your door tag . . your door is cracked and your latch will soon fall out on the ground . . remove the tag and install a door latch reinforcement plate.

also, never, ever, close a mustang door hard, they will break at the latch.

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...atKey=EMUSTANG

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Nurdyguy

Thanks Barnett, I was going to ask about that as well. It's a pain to get the door to close properly...

69mach1377

Not out to lunch...his earlier post said transmissioin code 6, but thanks for exposing your eagerness to bash me tough guy.
I think you need to back off...

barnett468

ok try to rotate the star gear with oite finger pressure, if if moves at all, the latch is bad.

push the button in and close the door slowly, if it raises up slightly just before it closes your lower dopr pin is worn . . you can fix this by moving the lower hinge rearward around 1/8" . . good luck with that . . it also requires special tools.

if the rubber is new it might be the problem.

the latch might be dry but you need to remove the door panel to remove it.

the latch on the body might be in a bit to far . . moving it out a hair might help but make sure the door is still fliush with the body.

WestCoastShelby

Back yourself off