Nurdyguy

Well, I was worried that there was much more going on that I would be able to handle so I took the Mustang to a shop. They basically said "She runs great!" which, at first, was a little frustrating. Then they explained a couple of things to me.

First off, I wasn't letting her warm up enough. I've gotten to used to modern cars and not having to worry about that.

Second, I need to learn how to drive. I was driving on the white dot instead of the green dot...

The mechanic did notice that there would be a lot of hesitation when hitting the gas right after turning a corner. He said he wasn't sure what was causing it, possibly fuel slosh. He said he would look in to it if I wanted but it could turn into an expensive goose chase. Does this sound familiar to anyone?

gjz30075

The fuel will slosh in the bowl going around corners but it shouldn't hesitate. It sounds like the float level needs adjusting.

Gun Jam

yep probably a good indicator of incorrect float level. I found the edelbrock / afb style carbs were more prone to this than a holley 4150 style. I was never able to get the AFBs to really work well under high G forces.

-Gun

69mach1377

What are these dots of which you speak?

Gun Jam

c4 green dots I Imagine....

white dot is 2/3 it eliminates 1st gear for low traction environments

Nurdyguy

Well, I would have thought the bottom three gear positions were 1st gear, 2nd gear and drive but I was wrong. They are "Low" for 1st and 2nd gear only, "Green Dot" for 1st gear, 2nd gear and 3rd gear, and "White Dot" for 2nd and 3rd gear only. So by driving in "White Dot" all of the time I was trying to accelerate from a stop in 2nd gear. It doesn't explain the hesitation itself but does explain why it was so sluggish. The mechanic said that he is able to get the tires to break loose from a stop using the proper gear.

The mechanic said the carb looked good and didn't need adjusting. He said the first thing he would do had something to do with the gas tank (I don't remember exactly what) but that he really wasn't sure if that was the issue and even just diagnosing this could end up being costly. At that point I told him not to worry about it.

69mach1377

OK, that was the logic back then. 2 meant start in 2nd like gun said. Huge difference.
You never did tell us what rear gear ratio you have...

WestCoastShelby

+1 check your initial timing.

+1 if your running gas w/ ethanol there is more air in your fuel and you should be bumping up at least 1 jet size if not 2 to compensate.

The premium gas tank that CJPP is the way to go! Its worth the extra money. 3M sells strip caulking that works great for install.

Nurdyguy

I mentioned that it's an engine code C and transmission code 6 but honestly that's all I know. It's stock, whatever it is. This car was literally "owned by a little old lady (my grandma) who only took it out once a month to the grocery store". It was an October '64 build and still has quite a few of the 64 1/2 parts in it (my mom actually thought it was a 64 1/2 for a really long time but it isn't, it's a 65).

69mach1377

The door data plate may have a rear code also...if it's 3:1 or smaller, that would take the zip out of it at the gate.