Nurdyguy

I'm guessing I should probably pull the carb off and clean out that sediment. I just replaced both fuel filters and am thinking of adding a third glass one so I can keep a better eye on things.

barnett468

no, add a tiny 1" diameter clear plastic one just before the fuel pump . . use new fuel line if yours is old . . many parts stores have these filters sitting on the counter.

yes you can clean the sediment when you set the float level to 1/2".

WARNING - It may look like your filter is EMPTY . . if the car is running, it is NOT . . this is just an odd phenomenon that may occur depending on how it is mounted.
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Nurdyguy

I pulled the carb to clean it and noticed that the gasket for the cover is broken/torn. Anyone know where I can get a replacement gasket for this?

barnett468

it only comes in a complete carb kit available at most parts stores . . you can possibly install it and temporarily seal the broken end with a dab of silicone or aircraft sealer.

Nurdyguy

I found it at Napa for $1.29 but you have to pay $7.95 shipping... Oreily's had the kid for $20 so I grabbed that.

Carb is back on and seems to be running well. Unfortunately I can't take it out because the door won't close. I tried to replace the latch assembly but it was missing one of the clips and when I tried to remove the one from the old latch it broke. In the mean time I had to order the stupid clip from cjpp.

I'm gonna try a quick flush of the rad. I plan to hit the MB for the citric acid flush but haven't been able to yet.

barnett468

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ok, well you said your car ran "fine" before except in corners, so why would it not run "fine" or the same now?
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Nurdyguy

I realized that the clip that is broken is for the lock rod so I partially installed the assembly, enough to be able to close the door and open it from the inside.

I took her out for about 20-minutes, up and down the road by the house. Its a 45 mph zone but almost every one goes 50 so I was able to get on her a bit and see how she felt.

Overall, a major improvement.

Before she hesitated almost any time I hit the gas hard as well as accelerating out of a turn.

Now, (about about 5-minutes of warm-up) no more hesitation from a stop or out of a turn. She still hesitates sometimes (maybe 50% of the time) if I'm already on the gas but then floor it. It's a pretty big hesitation but that's the only time it happens so that's a big improvement.

barnett468

so you took the lid of the carb and put it right back on without doing anything else to it and it fixed itself.

Nurdyguy

I adjusted the float to 1/2 inch and cleaned the carb a bit. I'm sure the float adjustment was the issue, just as you said before.

barnett468

oh, that makes more sense.

was it low before you adjusted it?

does it still die in turns?

does it die in a turn by itself or only when you push the gas pedal?

did you get the numbers off the main jets like i asked?

there is a part in that kit ypu should replace . . it is a valve with a spring on it . . it is on the bottom of the carb.

remove carb

turn it upside down to drain gas.

remove small cover on bottom side.

put a piece if 220 - 280 sand paper on a granite counter top or window pane.

rub the gasket surface of the cover on the paper for around 10 seconds.

look at surface, if ot is not all shiny, it is warted . . sand some more.

remove old valve with crescent wrench.

if gasket is stuck to the body, remove with razor blate.

put new and old valve spring side up on table.

push down on both valves . . tell us if one is harder to depress.

install new gasket on new valve.

jold carb upright and install valve finger tight from the bottom . . this prevents the gasket from becoming un-centered.

tighten moderately hard with crescent.
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