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Intake valve gunk removal help

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Old 01-19-2015, 11:14 PM
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Gun Jam
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Default Intake valve gunk removal help

This issue occurred directly after switching to aluminum heads. I have been running these heads for about two years. My iron heads did not seem to have this issue.

Upon switching to the AL heads after about 2000 miles or less I had a lifter collapse and that required removal of the head. Upon inspection of the head I noticed gunk built up on the back side of the intake valves. It is soft and tar like and dissolves with carb cleaner fairly easily. All intake valves have equal amounts of gunk on them.

Today I got a bore scope and was curious about the progress of this gunk. It looks about the same it has not increased or decreased.

The engine runs well and my carb tune is as good as I can get.

I usually use chevron mid grade fuel in California. In cold weather (50s or hot (105s) makes no difference on this gunk accumulation.

I would like this crap to go away...Do you think I would have success with a fuel additive to clean this junk off? Seafoam? or something else?

Thanks for your input

Here are some bore scope photos as best I could capture being run down the intake.
Attached Thumbnails Intake valve gunk removal help-54bdb2a0.jpg   Intake valve gunk removal help-54bdb34c.jpg   Intake valve gunk removal help-54bdb2af.jpg  
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Old 01-20-2015, 02:03 PM
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Starfury
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That's what things like seafoam and techron are supposed to do.

Personally, I'd use Seafoam. Slowly pour half of a bottle down a big vacuum line (PCV, brake booster, etc) with the engine running. Dump the last half of the bottle in the gas tank.
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Old 01-20-2015, 04:08 PM
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barnett468
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Originally Posted by Gun Jam
I would like this crap to go away...Do you think I would have success with a fuel additive to clean this junk off? Seafoam? or something else?
if it is still gooey which seems odd, then eventually if you run around $500.00 worth of techron thru it and drive around 10,000 miles, it might come off.

this is typically from oil or very old gas, so my guess is that the new aluminum heads pass oil by the guide and your iron ones did not . . if you have those c_appy umbrell seals, i would change them to positive seals . . this can be done with the headss on the car.


hi starfury . . hope school goes ok.
.
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Old 01-20-2015, 04:41 PM
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.
Originally Posted by Gun Jam

I noticed gunk built up on the back side of the intake valves. It is soft and tar... ...gunk... I would like this crap to go away...

Do you think I would have success with a fuel additive to clean this junk off? Seafoam? or something else?
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . heres "somethinhg else."

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . or how bout this one?

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
.

Last edited by barnett468; 01-20-2015 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 01-20-2015, 06:47 PM
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The engine doesnt burn oil, smoke or have any indication of worn valve guides. its been a day one problem. Maybe its got to do with the heat dissipation of the aluminum heads?

its not super soft but I dont think its like charcoal hardness either.

Can I run the seafoam straight down the carb barrels?
Should I let it sit on there over night (shut the engine down right away)?

I found this any experience?

http://crcindustries.com/auto/intake-valve-cleaner.php

That rustoleum looks like good stuff
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:50 PM
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I'm kinda leaning with Barnett here. Oil getting sucked down the intake would do that. It might not be noticeable as smoke, just enough to gum up on the valves. Could also be PCV. I know mine sucks oil, especially at high rpm's, but I've yet to remedy the situation.

You can pour seafoam down the carb, but I suspect you get better atomization sucking it through a vacuum line. It's also harder to hydro-lock the motor from the vacuum line. If you really want to power clean it, let the engine die while pouring it down the vacuum line, let it sit for a minute, then fire it back up. Just don't keep pouring when it shuts down.
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Old 01-20-2015, 09:36 PM
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.
what brand of gas do you use?

you said it started after you installed aluminum heads.

ok here ya go,

step 1. Buy this . . it may still be avail from chrysler dealers . . it lingers on the valves and pistins longer than liquid stuff . . the other good item is gm top engine cleaner but i would not use that in your app . . gb44 is also good

Amazon.com: Genuine Chrysler Accessories 4318001AD Combustion Chamber Cleaner - 13 oz. Aerosol Can: Automotive Amazon.com: Genuine Chrysler Accessories 4318001AD Combustion Chamber Cleaner - 13 oz. Aerosol Can: Automotive


1. Operate the vehicle until the vehicle reaches operating temperature.
2. Remove the vacuum line from pcv on carb spacer.
3. With the engine at high idle, spray the entire contents in . . you may have to feather the throttle to keep it from stalling. Allow the vehicle to load up with the cleaner to the point of almost stalling out.
4. Shut the engine OFF after the entire can is ingested.
5. With the hood closed and the vehicle parked out of the cold, allow the vehicle to soak for two hours.
6. Drive the vehicle on a highway/freeway that will allow the vehicle to be driven safely at the posted speed limit. Upon entering the highway/freeway, accelerate hard to the posted speed limit and maintain speed. Slow down and then perform 5 to 10 Wide Open Throttle (WOT) upshifts. Continue driving at the maximum speed limit for 1-2 miles (if conditions allow).


Step 2.

Add techron concentrate plus and 1 oz of your engine oil to a near empty tank then fill it up.

Check valves after one tank.

Once clean you might run a minute amount of techron and oil with every tank or add a little marvel mystery oil.

Last edited by barnett468; 01-20-2015 at 09:40 PM.
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Old 01-20-2015, 09:43 PM
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.
Originally Posted by Starfury
I'm kinda leaning with Barnett here.
So you think he should use goo gone or wax and tar remover too . . nice!
.
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Old 01-21-2015, 09:01 AM
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lol
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Old 01-21-2015, 10:30 AM
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Yeah PCV makes sense it oil could be coming from there

Fuel is mid grade chevron

seafoam or the like hasnt been known to cause any issues (aside from hydro lock) and they are safe to use as far as I can tell BUT do I run a risk of them damaging my wideband 02 sensor by using them?. Ill give these suggestions a try and will observe results with my fancy new borescope. Im pretty curious how well the seafoam actually works.

Thanks guys!

-Gun
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