Boogie's_AutoRama

I own a radiator shop and deal with people's overheating problems on a daily basis.
From all the info you've posted on this thread so far, you're wasting your time fooling around with the thermostat.
Thermostats are seldom the cause of over heating. They can stick shut, but it is very rare in my experience.
I've seen a faulty cap cause more trouble than the Tstat.

The usual culprit is: #1, stopped up radiator; #2, poor air flow.

So, your mechanic had it right from the get go, you need more air flow. ....and/or a new radiator, as fastabckford recommended.

Get yourself a new radiator before you burn up your motor.
Buy the biggest one you can afford. Made out of what ever material floats your boat.

And a new fan & shroud.
A clutch fan, 5, 6, 7 or 20 blade fan, flex or stiff. Something.
Or go electric if you really want to do it right.

Nurdyguy

I dropped the car off at the shop again this morning. The guy said the tstat they put in is 160 degree but he doesn't know what the old one was. Also, in the 3.5 mile drive to the shop this morning it was close to overheating again.

The whole situation seems a bit odd to me: Working but running a bit too cold on Thursday then CRAZY hot Saturday and then almost overheating again this morning. It kinda makes me think either the tstat was defective and went bad on Saturday or there is air stuck in the line somewhere. Hopefully the shop will figure it out. I'd be surprised if the radiator itself needs to be replaced as that seems like something the shop would have checked out last time.

barnett468

the people at the shop are f'n idiots, period . . anyone that would put a 160 t stat in your car thinking that it will make it run cooler is the dumbest moron in the world.

it is certainly possible to make a mustang or other car run at 160 in 100 degree heat with the ac on if the cooloing system is big enough which in that scenario it would need around a 3' x 4' wide rad that is 6" deep with a 10,000 cfm fan.

you can continue to go there and let them screw you or you can take the advice of many experienced people here that actually do know what the heck they are talking about and simply do what we all suggest.

did you check the float level on your carb yet as i suggested so it no longer bogs when you gas it around a corner or are the experts going to look at that for you too then charge you $200.00 to do what can be done in 10 minutes?

fastbackford351

Yeah, dude... I don't like to assign motives to other peoples actions but it sounds like they're pouring the meat to you.

Nurdyguy

Right now I'm just trying to give them a chance to fix their own mistake. I plan to make the other upgrades suggested here once the car is back.

I haven't had a chance to mess with the carb yet. Trust me, I'm not ignoring you guys. This overheat on Saturday really threw a wrench my plans.

barnett468

.

yeah, lots of us know way more than most average shops do . . i started working on these cars when i was 14 in the late 60's and was partners in one of the biggest mustang shops in the western us, so i, as well as others, know a few things . . i have made cars that overheated in the hot calif sun run cool for around 40 years etc.

we just see the small things add up with this shop and we don't want to see you or anyone spend money unnecessarily . . the water pump additive one was standard business 101 upsell, lol . . its kinda like adding additive to your oil to make it better.

now, about your overheating...did you check for the water level after you filled it then run it for a few minutes as i suggested? . . as i mentioned, these cars often get an air pocket so they are not really full even though they look like they are but after the thermostat opens, the bubble goes away and the water level in the rad goes down but if you check the leverl after a few minutes you coule be down by 2 quarts of water whivh will easily make it over heat.

i can guarantee you that if you need a new rad, i can pretty much assure you they can not accurately assess the size that you need, so you are just gonna get screwed more than holly the hooker.

let us tell you what you need based on your info . . don'y buy a radiator from them because it will likely be a chinese one with tiny tubes that costs $80.00 that they may charge you $300.00 for plus installation.

of course you will need new rad coolant AND water pump conditioner, lol.

also, a higher rated t stat will not cure your overheating prob but it could reduce it . . its complicated.
.

tx65coupe

That 160 degree T stat is too cold. Get a 190-195 degree Motorcraft or Stant thermostat. You want the car to run at an optimal operating temp when it is warmed up. This is better for combustion, performance, and fuel economy. It also boils off moisture in the oil / crank case.

tx65coupe

If your on the freeway and at speed, the fan probably is not the issue, since there is air flow while the car is moving.

I also suggest a better fan, fan shroud, and fan clutch, as well as a new radiator. The fan clutch isn't necessary, but the other things are.

Make sure there is a spring in the lower radiator hose. There should be one there. It could be collapsing.

Nurdyguy

I just picked her up, again...

The shop said that the radiator needs to be replaced and quoted around $550. I'd rather get a higher quality radiator and do it myself for less, as many of you have said. Is there a specific one anyone recommends? I'm guessing 3-row aluminum but there are a few out there.

barnett468

ok,

install a gano filter in the top rad hose.

measure the thickness of the rad core, not the thickness of the top tank.

look in the top of the rad and count how many rows of tubes it has front to back . . i should be 2 or 3.

tell us again how many blades your fan has?

can you spin it by hand? . . if so you have a fan clutch.

do you have a shroud?

we absolutely need your ignition timing numbers to best help you.

aluminum isn't better than brass copper.

northern rad has some us made aluminum rads.

if you currently have a 2 row rad, i would buy a stock type high efficiency 3 ros from coolcraft.com, they are the retail outlet for us rad . . call them and tell them what you want . . do not look at their site, it is a mess and you will never find the rad . . the price is atround $450.00.

coolcraft also makes aluminum rads that look like stock for less money . . the northern aluminum rad might have a flat square top and is less money.

ph 888-587-7234