1967 Clutch Equalizer Z Bar. Please Help!
#1
1967 Clutch Equalizer Z Bar. Please Help!
Hi,
I hope someone can help.
I've had a very stiff clutch pedal and now there is a lot of free play. I need to push the pedal down to the floor to shift and now reverse is grinding.
I've looked at the upper rod to the Z bar and it is sitting in at an angle and it looks like the Z bar is bent.
Now that it's is all out I don't know if it's actually bent or not because of the strange angles and curves. I must assume that it is because the upper rod was sitting in it at an angle.
I will change all of it, with new dust boots etc from the kit CJPony have.
My question is what could be causing this? Is there an underlying problem with the clutch release? Or something else?
The car has sat for over 10 years with only a 100 miles on it. When I bought it the clutch was very stiff but I thought that was normal for a 4 speed.
Thanks,
Tony
I hope someone can help.
I've had a very stiff clutch pedal and now there is a lot of free play. I need to push the pedal down to the floor to shift and now reverse is grinding.
I've looked at the upper rod to the Z bar and it is sitting in at an angle and it looks like the Z bar is bent.
Now that it's is all out I don't know if it's actually bent or not because of the strange angles and curves. I must assume that it is because the upper rod was sitting in it at an angle.
I will change all of it, with new dust boots etc from the kit CJPony have.
My question is what could be causing this? Is there an underlying problem with the clutch release? Or something else?
The car has sat for over 10 years with only a 100 miles on it. When I bought it the clutch was very stiff but I thought that was normal for a 4 speed.
Thanks,
Tony
#2
I've heard of this happening. It's not common, exactly, but it's not extremely uncommon either.
Make sure you pick up a new z-bar pivot bushing kit as well. This is often worn out, allowing a lot of slop in the z-bar movement and increasing pedal effort due to high friction. You may even consider replacing the lower rod, which can also be prone to breakage. At the very least, carefully inspect both rods for bends or cracks.
Make sure you pick up a new z-bar pivot bushing kit as well. This is often worn out, allowing a lot of slop in the z-bar movement and increasing pedal effort due to high friction. You may even consider replacing the lower rod, which can also be prone to breakage. At the very least, carefully inspect both rods for bends or cracks.
#3
Thanks Tad,
The Z bar bush on the frame side was stuck and not moving much, it took me a big screwdriver and hammer to get it off, so I'm hoping that was the problem.
I've already ordered the whole kit from CJPony, it includes the upper rod, the Z bar, the bushings, the lower rod, and dust jackets for the upper rod and transmission.
I've heard people taking out the big spring under the dash as well to alleviate such a hard pedal. What do you think?
The Z bar bush on the frame side was stuck and not moving much, it took me a big screwdriver and hammer to get it off, so I'm hoping that was the problem.
I've already ordered the whole kit from CJPony, it includes the upper rod, the Z bar, the bushings, the lower rod, and dust jackets for the upper rod and transmission.
I've heard people taking out the big spring under the dash as well to alleviate such a hard pedal. What do you think?
#5
The spring under the dash is an over-center assist spring. If you run a standard long-style (3-arm) pressure plate, you need the spring. If you use a modern pressure plate with many fingers in the center, you often need to remove the spring to maintain proper pedal effort.
#6
Now that everything is dismantled, I've left the under the dash spring, the pedal goes to the floor and doesn't do anything else.
As far as I know the pressure plate is original, although the retaining pins for the rods were cotter pins and the spring on the bottom rod wasn't mounted in the proper hole, so I'm not sure if there has been modifications or not. I'm hoping the problem was the equalizer bar bushing because it was not moving much.
I can move the clutch release by hand and it doesn't feel stiff at all!! How much should it move?? At the moment it's only moving about an inch when it clicks in and out.
Thanks for the help.
As far as I know the pressure plate is original, although the retaining pins for the rods were cotter pins and the spring on the bottom rod wasn't mounted in the proper hole, so I'm not sure if there has been modifications or not. I'm hoping the problem was the equalizer bar bushing because it was not moving much.
I can move the clutch release by hand and it doesn't feel stiff at all!! How much should it move?? At the moment it's only moving about an inch when it clicks in and out.
Thanks for the help.
#7
With everything disassembled, the dash spring will hold the pedal to the floor. That's normal.
By clutch release, do you mean the clutch fork on the bell housing? If so, it will have a bunch of free play with the linkage disassembled. You won't be able to release the clutch by hand. When you reassemble the linkage, you'll take up most of this free play when you adjust the lower rod.
By clutch release, do you mean the clutch fork on the bell housing? If so, it will have a bunch of free play with the linkage disassembled. You won't be able to release the clutch by hand. When you reassemble the linkage, you'll take up most of this free play when you adjust the lower rod.
#8
Ok. yes I mean the clutch fork. It's sticking out of the bell housing and the lower adjustable rod mates up to it with the spring. Looks like I'm waiting for parts to come. I've done some more research as well and will probably have an extra metal piece welded to the top part of the z bar, the piece that curves over the steering column, before I put it back together. thanks for your help and I'll be in touch when it's back together.
Tony
Tony
#9
Ok. yes I mean the clutch fork. It's sticking out of the bell housing and the lower adjustable rod mates up to it with the spring. Looks like I'm waiting for parts to come. I've done some more research as well and will probably have an extra metal piece welded to the top part of the z bar, the piece that curves over the steering column, before I put it back together. thanks for your help and I'll be in touch when it's back together.
Tony
Tony
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