Mustang6713

Quick Fuel over a Holley or Edelbrock because..? No real idea about any engine parts

barnett468

quick fuel was designed by some ex holley employees and it has a higher flow body and removable air bleeds and is cheaper.

i hate edelbrocks but they are ok jusr harder for an inexperienced person to tune imo but others say they are easier.

carbs have 3 different types of boost venturis, straight, dog leg and annular . . the straight is the worst and cheapest and has the worst throttle response, especially on big cam engines.

Mustang6713

Ok, so if I decide to not go with the stroker kit, what carb size would I go with and what would my hp and torque numbers look like? Estimated of course, but will I hit my goal or close to it? Also what about a fuel pump? Lastly, is there any way for me to determine the stall speed of my current converter? I looked up my invoice from the rebuilder and it was not listed, which kind of irks me.

barnett468

your stall speed would be stock most likely.

you can get 325 at the crank with a 289 and good parts, you can get it with the 175.00 lower priced trick flow heads and non roller cam . . what you are treally looking for is the most average torque which is one thing roller cams are good at provoding at lower roms than a non roller . . you can put a supercharger on it to and get nearly 400 . . if you have the money, you can reach your gpal one way or another with a 289.

if you get 325 hp or more from a 289 with just a carb, it will idle pretty poorly.
.

Mustang6713

Bump, anybody else want to chime in?

groho

OK, first, check your parts and crank to determine if you truly need to go completely through the motor. I opened my motor (66 coupe, 289, 2v) to find it was a recently rebuilt '68 302, and bearing clearances proved it, so there was no need to completely rebuild my bottom end. Second, do your homework, AFR165 heads and similar size heads don't require valve relief if you're using 58cc small chamber heads. AFR 185 heads and similar larger heads require more clearance checks to insure you don't have piston/valve issues depending on the cam you select. Head gasket is critical to achieving a specific compression ration. Summit has an excellent online compr calculator. Third, your cam selection (tappet or roller) will determine how much machine work you need, from none to drilling the block for retainers/spiders and new bearings. Select a stall speed that directly optimizes the cam profile; if your cam starts to pull at 2200 then you want a stall speed of 2200-2400. The edel carb is a nice driver, but the holley is much more performance oriented, keep it small, 600 CFM.

You want your parts to work together, and let the motor breath, bigger is not better. In my opinion, the carb you're selecting is too big for what you're building, you'll end up with idle problems and drivability issues, but once you put your foot in it, you'll go bat**** crazy. Was at OSCI this weekend, and saw a 67 Fairlane running a Cleveland with a 770 holley, kicking butt! You don't need big to be fast.