guitarman376

Since I just figured out that my fuel leak is because the engine builder stripped the original carb inlet threads, I am using this as an excuse to do a 4bbl and intake swap. If it's relevant I have a 351w with 2bbl factory setup right now. I already know I'm getting:
summit electrical choke 600cfm vacuum secondary carb
jet kit sum-210230
weiand stealth intake
4 hole carb spacer (WHAT SIZE fits under stock hood?)
dual feed fuel line sum-m08101
carb studs/nuts
fuel filter
gasket
intake gasket
2 carb gaskets (for each side of carb spacer)

Can I reuse original intake bolts on aluminum weiand intake?

What do I need to get all linkage and kickdown hooked up properly? Summit has this kickdown cable kit, not sure if I need it or something like it http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cmb-03-0044

What thickness carb spacer with the weiand stealth and a drop base air cleaner will fit under stock hood?

I would LOVE some help piecing everything together so that I can minimize parts trips. I am extremely open to advice, this will be my first intake swap.
How can I ensure distributor is placed back on correctly after the swap?

What type of intake gasket should I be looking for? I really don't know the ups and downs of the various types.

barnett468

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why do you want to run a high rise intake?

why do you want to put a spacer on a high rise intake?

guitarman376

I didn't know a Weiand Stealth counts as a hi rise intake...everything I've read about dual plane intakes says these two are best for street cars. I have even read that they fit under the stock hood. The spacer is for heat dissipation mainly, of course.

guitarman376

Barnett I know you can answer some of my questions too...

guitarman376

No one here has done an intake swap? And I was also considering a performer rpm intake if that is better barnett... the stealth, performer rpm, and summit brand intake are all very similar.

69mach1377

1/2" spacer should fit...how much gap do you have now?
How much wil the base drop, etc...you might need to raise it with a 'neck' spacer also.

guitarman376

Well I didn't even bother measuring with the stock setup, because I know I want to kiss the iron manifold goodbye. Mainly with this swap I am concerned about getting the kickdown cable if needed
( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-xkd-2fmxht do i need this?)
and I wanted to hear what other intakes people are running for about hood clearance reasons. At this point I am leaning towards performer rpm to keep things as low as possible, with a 1/2" spacer. In terms of height from shortest to tallest performer, performer rpm, weiand stealth.

guitarman376

To anyone reading this thread if you see anything I am forgetting or you can recommend a set of intake gaskets let me know. I think I am going to try the method of coating both sides of the intake gasket in a thin layer of rtv, make intake studs from bolts with cut-off heads to set the gaskets down on heads, apply rtv to front and back of block to replace cork seals and around ends of intake gasket (aka corners). Then set intake straight down (distributor removed) using the intake studs for guidance, then use other bolts to begin tightening it, pull out studs and install bolts/torque them 2 steps following recommended torquing pattern.

69mach1377

Sometimes you can't predict what will work or fit best, so save your receipts. You may end up with a bunch of parts that can be combined as needed. I know I have a collection of spacers and filters.
I was able to reuse my KD cable with a little bit of modification. I also had the H code engine.

barnett468

.
I do the following.

Use grade 8 bolts, grade 8 flat washers and grade lock washers . . if you want it fancy buy arp bolts or chrome, black or stainless allen head bolts and AN style flat washers.

If you use stainless, put some anti seize or grease on the shaft of the bolts.

Buy a mr gasket one or felpro or cometic . . the cometics are aramid fiber.

Drain at least 3 qts of coolant from your radiator.

After removing the intake, clean the the valley with brake cleaner or lacquer thinner and high quality paper towels.

Lay 2 layers of newspaper in the valley with the edges tucked under the cylinder head.

Wad up half a paper towel and put one in each intake port.

Scrape gasket off.

Vacuum gasket bits from intake ports.

Remove paper towel and newspaper.

Clean cylinder head and front and rear of block.

Install one, 1 1/2” long stud in the 4 corners of the head.

Lay the long gaskets on the heads and set the intake on.

Measure the distance between the intake and block and tell us what it is . . anywhere from 3/16” to 1/4” is ok.

Assuming it is ok there are a few approaches.

put a thin bead of permatex black gasket maker silicone around the water port on the head.

Put thin layer of gasket cinch on the intake ports on the head and gasket.

Carefully Install the gaskets then press them gently into place.

Put a small dab of permatex on all four corners where the block meets the heads.

Peel off the white plastic from the cork end gaskets and lightly put them in place . . the end tabs go into the slot in the gasket . . once they are properly located push down on them so they stick.

Put a dab of permatex in all four corners on top of the cork gasket and around the water ports and intake ports.

Carefully Install the intake . . if you do not use studs in the 4 corners to align it with then be careful not to slide it front and back for alignment by very much.

Put light coat of oil on intake bolt threads.

Install bolts.

Use correct torque pattern every time the bolts are tightened.

Tighten the bolts to 12 lbs.

Retighten to 12 lbs

Tighten to 18 lbs.

Retighten to 18 lbs.

Tighten to 24 lbs.

Tighten to 24 again.

Tighten to 24 again.

Run for 30 minutes.

Tighten bolts to 24 lbs again.