barnett468

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if your carb does not have a pcv port, buy the spacer i posted . . it has the pcv fitting.

if your intake has exhaust cross over, install intake exhaust cross over plates if you usually drive in 60 degree or higher weather . . this will reduce your intake fuel temp by maybe 150 degrees, lol.

i do ALL the intakes exactly as i posted . . i do not vary one single iota from that.

i have never had an intake leak in 40 years.

the only way you can make a mess with contact cement is if you are a complete and total moron and intentionally try to make a mess . . buy "gasket cinch".

grade 8 chinese bolts from the hardware store are more than strong enough for the intake even if they are less than grade 8 . . the factory bolts are us grade 5.

you usually have to go to an industrial hardware supply to get real us graded bolts and they will cost 3 times as much as hardware store ones.
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Slem

I'm sure your reputation as a 40+ year master mechanic is unscathed.


Some things to consider. Stuff has changed a lot in 40 years. Cometic gaskets specifically says NOT to use gasgacinch or permaglue. You might need that stuff for the cheap cork Fel-Pros but not Cometic. But I guess if you feel you need extra insurance on your work then by all means...gorilla glue that motor together!


Blocking off the crossover is almost a requirement as most modern intakes and gasket sets don't have provisions for the crossover. Especially the air-gap. And the exhaust can actually burn and possibly cut an aluminum intake over time.


If he buys a modern holley or demon which he did state, that'll come with a dedicated PCV vacuum port negating the need for that spacer/port add-on.


A quick search on Summit's website in the "intake" section will provide all the cork or cometic gaskets, manifold, bolts, and glue you may want or need to do the job.


The Lowe's parts again. While Home Depot bolts will certainly work I personally don't believe in hardware store stuff on cars. The whole right part for the job thing. Yes, quality is more expensive but also more rewarding in the long run. A lil more expensive then Lowe's or Home Depot...ARP makes specific bolts for specific jobs. Staying out of the discount parts bin may save headache down the road. And if you strive for anything near stock or concurs, hardware store stuff will certainly get you laughed at.


One not of caution! CA is the bane of society in many regards...CARB and emissions for one, not to mention the crazy cash for cars scheme and Nancy Pelosi. But I digress. Some of the parts we are talking about have pretty big emissions problems in CA. When you buy parts Guitarman pay attention to whether or not it is CARB approved or CA emissions compliant. It'd suck to roll up for a SMOG cert and you fail...after spending $600 plus the time gluing your motor together. Specifically check the regs about blocking off the cross over. CA may consider this part of the emissions system (since part of the idea on the crossover is to get the motor out of high idle faster thus reducing emissions) and fail you.

barnett468

lol, i can assure you i need no insurance on my work.


i've seen several intakes without exhaust cross overs with no block off plate that had around 150,000 miles on them and none showed any significant signs of damage from the exhaust.


absolutely wrong . . in just the holly line alone, only around 2 of their approximate 7 current models have a pcv provision . . that means only a fairly low ratio of 28.571% of all their models have a pcv port


this makes absolutely no sense because "the right part for the job" would not be any bolt from any hardware store, it would be the origanal ford bolts, so if you want to use original ford bolts or amk reproduction bolts everywhere on your car, then have at it . . there is no point in people wasting their money on these types of nuts and bolts etc if they dont have a concours car and/or dont want the concours look.


then i suggest you take all the chinese parts off your car including your chinese made starter solenoid that is sold by a us based company along with your korean made moog tie rod ends etc, lol.


i use original bolts and other hardware, or bolts from my friend max whom owns amk products when i need concours bolts whom had many of the orig bolts remade starting with a 20 gallon drum of used bolts we gave him when he was first starting his business.


my friend steve davis whom is the president of barrett jackson initiated a law that was eventually passed stating that cars before 1974 are exempt from smog in california therefore he can do what ever he wants . . it also isnt required to have fenders, doors or floors etc but it must have seat belts and side marker lites.


see answer above.
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guitarman376

slem: the summit (holley based) 600cfm vac secondary carb is extremely street friendly and I have read nothing but good reviews on them for a street carb. Not my definition of a big carb.....Like I stated, the spacer is for heat dissipation and probably pcv, not to make my intake a "high rise" or to add plenum volume. And yes you are in the minority saying you do not use permatex. Your input has been received.
A few people here think I am using the air-gap, which I am not because it is taller than the standard performer rpm. Just wanted to be clear.
Barnett is 100% correct, I have no smog issues to worry about (yay pre-74' cars!). I like that spacer just fine Barnett, I was just hoping to save on shipping and purchase as much as I can through summit. Forgive my ignorance, but can a pcv just be hooked up to a manifold port? I intend on doing a bunch of reading on this stuff, but it's late and I just got off work. Another day

barnett468

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hey, you are far from ignorant.

no need to read . . i and the other guys here know all about this stuff . . i just dont know where they are right now.

the summit carb has annular boosters so it has xlnt throttle response . . it is or was made by holley for summit . . it is a very good carb for the money . . the annular boosters atomize the fuel better plus they react quicker at low rpms than a down leg booster even if the down leg is stepped.

i can also guarantee you that the secondary spring in the carb will cause the secondaries to open a litter later than they could for your app . . i would buy the optional holley secondary spring kit and start with the white spring . . floor the car from 15 mph in second gear and see if it has a hesitation above maybe 25 mph . . if it does, the spring is likely too light so i would go up one size . . the most popular springs are the white which is the lightest and the short yellow which is the next heaviest.

using a manifold port for the pcv is a bad idea because it can cause the cylinder it is closest to, to run a bit leaner than the others plus a greater percentage of the bad crank case fumes and possibly oil will go into one cylinder.

the other thing you need to do is get the engine warm and set at a reasonable idle speed then plug the pcv . . if the rpm drops more than around 50, it is a little big . . if it drops around 100 or more it is definitely a bit too big and i would then use an adjustable one but they are around $100.00.

you also need a vented oil fill cap with a pcv.

if the silicone sealer you buy does not say "gasket maker" or something similar on it, it will be thinner . . i dont recommend this type unless you have a bit of experience sealing intakes with it . . i would also not suggest "the right stuff" sealer for you for the opposite reason . . it is good stuff but it skims over and sets up a bit quickly so its working time is less than the other kinds.

In your case, I would use the first gasket listed . . it is more compressible than the cometic and it has more sealing area due to the smaller port size . . if the end seals dont have adhesive, i would glue them to the top of the block with gasket cinch . . you will still need a small dad of silicone in the bottom and top of the corner . . use a small bead of silicone along the top of the gasket . . if you do not use gasket cinch or contact cement on them, they may slide out of place as you tighten the intake which may displease you, lol.

gaskacinch . . you might get a small of contact cement for less at the hardware store . . by the way, this is not gorilla snot as the other guy or girl called it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-9300/overview/

summit only has loctite silicone . . only use the black or gray gasket maker from them if you but their brand . . the gray is the thickest.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lct-37467/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lct-37464/overview/




Edey rpm intake port size……………………..................................1.1 2 x 1.86

Mr gasket non print o seal ………………………………………………………....1.21 x 2.11 x .062 . . $24.00
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mr...view/make/ford

mr gasket print o seal………………………………………………………………....1.20 x 2.11 x .060 . . $29.00
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mr...view/make/ford

Cometic n351 . . fairly hard material . . very small water port . . 1.28 x 2.12 x .060 . . $28.00
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cgt-c5652-060


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guitarman376

Barnett I have the factory style oil cap with vent hose to the air cleaner, I was planning on not changing this breathing style with the new setup because my drop base air cleaner should work on the new setup. Is there a reason why you mentioned a pcv in the oil vent cap? And is there any reason why my factory pcv wouldn't be adequate? Again I figured I just had to find a way to attach the hose end to underneath the carb.

guitarman376

Oh and the carb does have a pcv vacuum port! http://static.summitracing.com/globa...rb%20instr.pdf

barnett468

hi guitarman . . i just meant that if you use a pcv you should use a vented oil cap . . i didn't mean the pcv should be in the oil cap . . sorry for being confusing, lol.

if you have an original 44 year old pcv then it should be fine . . most of the aftermarket ones they give you these days flow too much.

also, if you buy the cometic gaskets you can certainly use sealer on them . . i have never seen them say to not use sealer but summit says that sealer is not necessary on them . . these are two completely different things.

ps-does guitar man mean you play guitar?
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Slem

Hahahaha! Old man Barnett can't handle anyone going against him. LMAO OK G-Man, the real lesson in all of this is that you SHOULD NOT get on a forum and take ANYONE'S direction without doing YOUR OWN research. When an individual tells you to do something "because everyone else does this" or "I have done this for 40 years and it is the only way", "just buy what I tell ya" then it is time to be suspicious. I am an aviation professional by trade and not a certified or certifiable mech. However, I have been logging wrench time for every bit as long an old man emu over there in BFE AZ. My message is simple...do your own research. The greatest invention that's ever been (the WWW) is at your fingertips...use it. Everything I've said to you is true...but...please don't take my advice! Do your own research!! I'm not saying old man emu is wrong...he's just not totally right. One last time...before you blindly follow anyone's advice, take a look see for yourself. I could sit here and tell you I've turned wrenches for Shelby's race team before I went to work for Al and Bobby Unser and that you you should do what I tell you BECAUSE I SAID and I am THE authority! Emu offers you no credentials or has lil validity to his stature in life other then anger and slander. Is that credible? If you look around this forum, emu likes to threaten and slander others that don't agree with EVRYTHING he says and EVERYTHING he tells them to do. I do believe in web verbage they call this a Net Troll.


Be careful brother or emu might run up your tab! And do your own research! We've already had too many Karesh and Jim Jones cult leaders in this country!

barnett468

CARB SPACER

i would just connect the pcv to the carb then and not use a spacer . . you will not have heat problems . . also, if you use a spacer, it at least partially defeats the purpose of the dual plenum . . this might help and it might hurt . . each engine responds differently to a spacer . . if you buy a spacer, you might consider a 3/4" one as i think you originally did, and simply try it without it and again with it and see if you can tell any difference.


THROTTLE FITTING

keep in mind that if you still have the orig throttle cable set up you will need a ball socket.




IGNITION TIMING

unless you have actually physically altered the mechanical advance curve in your distributor, you are most likely not getting as much advance as your engine can use . . i have seen gains of 10-40 hp in engines by properly setting it . . if you want, i can post an easy test for you to do that will tell you if your engine will run better if you change your timing.
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