Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Intake and Carb Swap

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Old 05-17-2015, 03:30 PM
  #31  
Slem
 
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Hehehehe! And the emissions exempt status for CA is for vehicles model year 1976 and older with legislation going thru on pushing the vehicle age to 1981 and older. Good job Steve Davis AND, more so, SEMA for making that happen!


Again, not wrong but not totally correct
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Old 05-17-2015, 04:35 PM
  #32  
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i forgot to mention, if you dont have a basket yet, i would buy one of these . . its not cheap but it wont leak . . be careful not to use a lot of force tightening the carb bolts or nuts . . after you run it the first time, tighten them again..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-108-10
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Old 05-18-2015, 11:26 AM
  #33  
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What is the name of those ball sockets and where can I find one? Yes I am a guitar player, more for hobby than anything but I do love it (not as much as cars). I think I will be ordering parts today...so get any final words in lol. When my motor was rebuilt I don't know whether or not my distributor was recurved but I do know that my motor runs pretty good and I know that I set it up with vac unplugged to max around 32 or 34.
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Old 05-18-2015, 02:48 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by guitarman376
What is the name of those ball sockets and where can I find one? Yes I am a guitar player, more for hobby than anything but I do love it (not as much as cars). I think I will be ordering parts today...so get any final words in lol. When my motor was rebuilt I don't know whether or not my distributor was recurved but I do know that my motor runs pretty good and I know that I set it up with vac unplugged to max around 32 or 34.
hey,

they are called a ball stud . . summit should have them as well as most auto parts stores . . they are often in the orange dorman boxes . . the threads and ***** come in a few different sizes so be sure to get the right size.

ok, 32 - 34 at around 2700 to 3000 is good enough.

i would put a bottle of nitrous on my list, lol.

i asked about guitars because i play a bit too . . used to be in bands etc . . have a carvin, fender us strat, f1050 fender acoustic and takamine 12 string.
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Old 05-19-2015, 12:34 AM
  #35  
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Yea I just like the way instruments demand your attention and focus. I like mental stimulation, but I have no god-given music talent so there's that. I jam with an american strat and a budget ibanez acoustic.

I will upload my parts list, and I know some things might be missing like the fittings to attach hoses or something for the linkage etc but it should mostly be there. Pretty excited to do this swap. Has anyone experienced the before after effect of aftermarket intake/carb? My first swap so I've never had a before/after seat-of-the-pants comparison. The issue NOW is that I will definitely need to put headers and a dual exhaust on my car and that will be going on the credit card. This car thing is seriously an addiction. Later on I will try and take pics and update as the process happens. There will be more questions coming!
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Old 05-19-2015, 12:40 AM
  #36  
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Summit Carb
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
4 hole 1/2" carb spacer
2 carb gaskets
carb stud kit
carb fuel feed line kit
secondary spring kit
permatex black gasket maker
gasgacinch
intake gasket set
thermostat gasket
oil/coolant/oil filter
ball stud assortment (1 will work!)
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Old 05-19-2015, 01:24 AM
  #37  
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hey, those are two cool guitars and the more you practice, the better you will get . . i used to play for up to 3 hours a day.

unless the spacer is tapered, i would run an open one.

i use oil with a lot of zddp like valvoline vr-1 or brad penn etc.

you only need 1 stud if its the correct one . . your old carb might have one you can use.

as far as how the power will be different going from what you had to this, its hard to say because it depends on the rest of the build, but at the very least, i would think you will get some more rpm out of it and some more upper end power, plus it will look way cooler.
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Last edited by barnett468; 05-19-2015 at 01:27 AM.
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Old 05-19-2015, 02:25 AM
  #38  
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Well I know my motor is all 69' components and that it has an unknown cam (paperwork/p# lost). Cam is extremely streetable and maybe stock. No lumpy idle at all but seems to work well with given setup. Cylinders bored .030 over, had some balance work done on rotating assembly including flexplate (still externally balanced motor). Crank and bearings are marginally undersized/turned from normal engine machine work, and all engine clearance specs were set to factory.

I know the heads are 69' and have slightly oversized valves with a 3 angle valve job at least. Might have 4 angle on intake side but no runner porting not even exhaust thermactor or gasket match. The motor runs really smooth, the car is not slow already, and makes great oil pressure.

Could probably use some MINIMAL timing adjustments/recurve, this was done upon rebuild but I did play with timing a little and set it to how I mentioned. I do know the compression is at least 9.0:1 but I remember 9.3:1 for some reason. I have a pertronix electronic ignition conversion as well which did make the car perform better. Motor has less than 5,000miles and makes great oil pressure, and sounds great once warm.

I will be getting hedman elite shorty headers because I am trying to keep fitment/clearance as much of a non issue as possible and I really don't need full length headers. Will also have 2.5" mandrel exhaust with x pipe and good mufflers like dynomax and possibly resonators too for noise reasons.

Until I get the exhaust done I'm not really expecting too much of a gain, but a healthy stock 357w short block with 9:1 and 69' heads with the given intake and exhaust SHOULD BE a large improvement over the 2bbl with iron intake and cast iron manifold WITH SINGLE EXHAUST crimped to less than 2" in some areas! RIGHT? Yes my car still has the factory single exhaust right now...
BTW I wonder how much weight will be shed/gained with what I just said above ^

The reason I was set on the 4 hole spacer is that keeping the intake planes separate is good for mpg's I read and truthfully I want to drive my car a lot soon. They are inexpensive enough that I could try an open one or divided or taller ones later.

For me a cam is out of the question until I do the heads anyway, and the car needs the money spent much more elsewhere. Like the fiero seat conversion and reupholstering I will be doing and eventually put a stick and some gears in her. So with the stock-ish cam I've got, and stock valvetrain, and unported heads, top end for me is probably around 5000 to 5500rpm right? With this being the case I wanted separate planes in the intake, an annular booster carburetor, and a 4 hole spacer to increase carb signal for driveability.
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Old 05-19-2015, 05:15 AM
  #39  
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sounds very cool . . yeah, with the dual plenum it could go either way with the spacer so you definitely didnt make a wrong choice with the 4 hole.

if you want to keep noise down inside the car, one of the magnafows would be the quietest.
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Old 05-21-2015, 01:29 PM
  #40  
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I will slowly try and update this thread throughout the intake/carb swap process. I am slowly "blacking out" my engine bay, so I am painting the intake and some small items black. So far it has come out really well. I will not be porting my intake because I don't think it would do much for the hassle, however I am going to massage the center divider just a little bit to smooth the transition a little bit. I am just beveling a small portion of the corners towards the center of the divider. The carb has not come yet so no pictures yet.

For those who are setting up their parts list for a intake/carb swap...remember that carb studs are measured by the part that sticks out of the intake, NOT by their overall length like I thought. So I gotta get new shorter ones.
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