Intake and Carb Swap
05-27-2015, 01:48 PM
#51
My carb came, looks pretty awesome and it is not heavy. Unfortunately it was missing some hardware and I will be exchanging it, but everything looked pretty good on these summit carbs. I aligned my 4 hole spacer with it to see how well they matched up, not perfect but its good enough.
05-28-2015, 10:47 AM
#52
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: ABQ, NM, USA
Posts: 2,593
I read that inserting brass female fittings into the intake ports (1 for water temp sensor, one for manifold vacuum, and one for heater hose) will prevent the fluid/vacuum fittings from seizing in the aluminum threads. Is this something I should do? It does seem like a good idea to me... If so, how do I determine the thread sizing of each?
06-01-2015, 07:06 PM
#53
Hey guys, so I have been painting lots of small parts and whatnot so that more of the engine pieces match each other after the intake swap, and realized I didn't notice one vacuum fitting on the side of the 2bbl carburetor. I believe the one in the rear of the manifold is for the transmission, but this one attaches to the carb itself on passenger side and then the hard line goes down by passenger exhaust manifold. It is shown here with the rubber line between the carb and hard line.
What does this go to, and is this ported vacuum? Am I correct about the rear fitting being for transmission or is that this one? The pcv nipple on the carb and the distributor vacuum line are known.
What does this go to, and is this ported vacuum? Am I correct about the rear fitting being for transmission or is that this one? The pcv nipple on the carb and the distributor vacuum line are known.
06-01-2015, 10:17 PM
#54
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 2,682
Hey.. Thats your heat tube for the old choke. If you are running an electric choke on the new carb, you should be ok without it. If there is a fitting on your new carb for a warm air line (it heats up the spring inside to open the choke) then use it.
If you have an electric choke, dont worry about it.
Good choice on the carb / intake.. Did you upgrade your cam?
You and I have pretty much the same car. If you still have my number feel free to text for anything man.
If you have an electric choke, dont worry about it.
Good choice on the carb / intake.. Did you upgrade your cam?
You and I have pretty much the same car. If you still have my number feel free to text for anything man.
06-01-2015, 11:48 PM
#55
Good to hear from you booger. I haven't upgraded the cam and don't plan to for awhile, the car needs exhaust! Still running the factory single setup! As soon as this swap is complete, I will be getting headers, x pipe, 2.5" mandrel system with dynomax super turbos and resonators. I like not attracting attention...
I was not talking about the heat choke tube, that is the one that is covered with fiber material in the photo. The vacuum line I mean is the one that attaches to the carb in the photo with rubber vacuum hose. I just couldn't trace the hard line that it connects to as it runs down by passenger exhaust manifold. I can't think of anything else on my car that operates with vacuum? (Trans modulator, distributor, pcv...) I don't have power brakes.
I was not talking about the heat choke tube, that is the one that is covered with fiber material in the photo. The vacuum line I mean is the one that attaches to the carb in the photo with rubber vacuum hose. I just couldn't trace the hard line that it connects to as it runs down by passenger exhaust manifold. I can't think of anything else on my car that operates with vacuum? (Trans modulator, distributor, pcv...) I don't have power brakes.
06-01-2015, 11:57 PM
#56
Maybe I will do cam after that though...I have been trying to research what off the shelf grinds will work with a stock 69 351w, I am concerned with PTV clearance and the only thing I know I want is more lift on the exhaust side since my heads are untouched and they flow poorly on that side. I have read .500" is a good rule of thumb as a max, but I realize duration is just as important and have not found any sort of rule of thumb for that. Getting off topic but if anyone can recommend something that spins to 6000rpm and meets criteria let me know.
06-02-2015, 04:46 PM
#57
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: arizona
Posts: 1,398
.
there is no way in hell you can rum a 6000 rpm cam unless you spend another $6000.00.
buy a comp xe256h or xe 262h cam
the end of that metal line goes to the bottom of the exhaust manifold.
the ported vacuum port for the distributor is on the base plate on the left hand side near the front of the carb.
the hose in the back of the c arb is for the pcv valve . . the trans line goes to the fitting in ther back of the intake manifold.
.
there is no way in hell you can rum a 6000 rpm cam unless you spend another $6000.00.
buy a comp xe256h or xe 262h cam
the end of that metal line goes to the bottom of the exhaust manifold.
the ported vacuum port for the distributor is on the base plate on the left hand side near the front of the carb.
the hose in the back of the c arb is for the pcv valve . . the trans line goes to the fitting in ther back of the intake manifold.
.
06-03-2015, 08:06 PM
#58
Wow I didn't know the factory induction setup has TWO lines going to exhaust. I know the clothed one is for the choke, what does this other one do? It's connected to the carb via rubber hose which had me thinking vacuum of some type.
About the cam, I have been reading up on 351w heads and most people agree they won't flow past 5500rpm unless they are modded which mine aren't. I should have said 5500rpm not 6000. However $6k to make it spin to 6000rpm?
I figured all that was needed after a good set of heads was good valvetrain (roller rockers, hydraulic roller cam, retrofit linkbar lifters). What am I missing here? I know the 351's have large bearings and many agree 6krpm ish is where the maximum safe spot is, but my freshly rebuilt and balanced bottom end has got to be ok to 6000rpm right?
I would think the top end is where the last 500-800 rpms are hiding. Again I do realize 351w's generally don't get revved much past 6k ever, but I have read of stock short block builds (even unbalanced ones) that have a nice top end put on them and are safely shifted at 6k for 50k miles or more. Educate me on this.
About the cam, I have been reading up on 351w heads and most people agree they won't flow past 5500rpm unless they are modded which mine aren't. I should have said 5500rpm not 6000. However $6k to make it spin to 6000rpm?
I figured all that was needed after a good set of heads was good valvetrain (roller rockers, hydraulic roller cam, retrofit linkbar lifters). What am I missing here? I know the 351's have large bearings and many agree 6krpm ish is where the maximum safe spot is, but my freshly rebuilt and balanced bottom end has got to be ok to 6000rpm right?
I would think the top end is where the last 500-800 rpms are hiding. Again I do realize 351w's generally don't get revved much past 6k ever, but I have read of stock short block builds (even unbalanced ones) that have a nice top end put on them and are safely shifted at 6k for 50k miles or more. Educate me on this.
06-04-2015, 08:06 PM
#59
Foghorn Leghorn
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: I reside in a near constant state of amazment.
Posts: 2,923
That's going to be a nice upgrade. I have that same intake.
I ground the Edlebrock script and all the other writing off of the intake and painted it to match the block. I figured Edlebrock wasn't cutting me a check to advertise and thought it distracted from the motif I was going for.
I ground the Edlebrock script and all the other writing off of the intake and painted it to match the block. I figured Edlebrock wasn't cutting me a check to advertise and thought it distracted from the motif I was going for.
06-06-2015, 02:22 AM
#60
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: arizona
Posts: 1,398
.
if you spin cast pistons to 6 k very often, they may break . . if you spin stock rod nuts or bolts to 6k very often, they may break.
just because some people do that or do that with an unbalanced engine doesn't mean it is ok and that it wont blow up.
also, you need screw in rocker studs or pins in the stockers, if you install a bigger cam or stiffer springs.
you need to disassemble the engine to do the rods and pistons so you might as well do it right and rebuild it.
you need more compression if you have a 6 k engine.
you need 350 gears if you have a 6 k engine.
you need a high stall converter if you have a 6 k engine.
you should build your trans if you have a 6 k engine.
ok, im tired of typing now.
if you spin cast pistons to 6 k very often, they may break . . if you spin stock rod nuts or bolts to 6k very often, they may break.
just because some people do that or do that with an unbalanced engine doesn't mean it is ok and that it wont blow up.
also, you need screw in rocker studs or pins in the stockers, if you install a bigger cam or stiffer springs.
you need to disassemble the engine to do the rods and pistons so you might as well do it right and rebuild it.
you need more compression if you have a 6 k engine.
you need 350 gears if you have a 6 k engine.
you need a high stall converter if you have a 6 k engine.
you should build your trans if you have a 6 k engine.
ok, im tired of typing now.
