65 Fast Back front suspension Upgrade
#1
65 Fast Back front suspension Upgrade
Hey guys. Just wondering doing a complete make over to my suspension system. want to upgrade. I am looking at Global west. Anyone out using there control arms and what not. whats your take good and bad. Easy to align etc. Feed back please as I am going to drop some $$$
Guido
Guido
#2
.
hello guido . . i see you are new . . welcome.
what year and what engine?
yes there are several people here that have run different types of suspension . . i have run global west and others . . you would get more specific suggestions if you tell us exactly what type of driving you will do ie road race, rally cross or just some occasional mildly spirited driving on mountain roads etc.
also, do you want it slightly stiffer than stock or a lot stiffer etc.
one common upgrade is to do a shelby drop . . some of the total control products arms have this built in so you dont need to drill the holes in your shock towers.
another popular upgrade is to install stiffer front strut rod bushings like the global west or maier racing ones.
you can buy roller spring perches or scott drake urethane perches which are inbetween rollers and stock.
lots of shocks to chose from but popular budget ones are kyb gas adjust, revalved bilsteins are very good and of course konis . . one new type that has separate adjustments for rebound and compression damping and are reasonably priced are vikings.
tcp . . heim joints, adjustable for camber and caster plus 1" shelby drop . . $751 each.
https://www.cachassisworks.com/p-190...vot-shaft.aspx
http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/upper.html
............
strut rod bushings
http://us-dc2-order.store.yahoo.net/...SwkwxVTqKnM-~A
drake spring perch
http://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-dra...FVIXHwodS1sARA
roller spring perch
http://dazecars.com/dazed/test.html#6
the 620 springs are very stiff . . for moderate performance use, i use these 480 lb ones . . they are noticeably stiffer than stock.
https://www.npdlink.com/store/produc...-104580-1.html
.
hello guido . . i see you are new . . welcome.
what year and what engine?
yes there are several people here that have run different types of suspension . . i have run global west and others . . you would get more specific suggestions if you tell us exactly what type of driving you will do ie road race, rally cross or just some occasional mildly spirited driving on mountain roads etc.
also, do you want it slightly stiffer than stock or a lot stiffer etc.
one common upgrade is to do a shelby drop . . some of the total control products arms have this built in so you dont need to drill the holes in your shock towers.
another popular upgrade is to install stiffer front strut rod bushings like the global west or maier racing ones.
you can buy roller spring perches or scott drake urethane perches which are inbetween rollers and stock.
lots of shocks to chose from but popular budget ones are kyb gas adjust, revalved bilsteins are very good and of course konis . . one new type that has separate adjustments for rebound and compression damping and are reasonably priced are vikings.
tcp . . heim joints, adjustable for camber and caster plus 1" shelby drop . . $751 each.
https://www.cachassisworks.com/p-190...vot-shaft.aspx
http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/upper.html
............
strut rod bushings
http://us-dc2-order.store.yahoo.net/...SwkwxVTqKnM-~A
drake spring perch
http://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-dra...FVIXHwodS1sARA
roller spring perch
http://dazecars.com/dazed/test.html#6
the 620 springs are very stiff . . for moderate performance use, i use these 480 lb ones . . they are noticeably stiffer than stock.
https://www.npdlink.com/store/produc...-104580-1.html
.
Last edited by barnett468; 05-18-2015 at 02:09 AM.
#3
"620" springs are often .620" diameter, not 620 lbs. Have to be careful while looking at options. I have the Grab-A-Trak .620" springs (which are roughly 480-500 lbs) and I love them. Stiff enough for some serious abuse, but not so stiff that you can't get a decent ride out of them.
#5
Thanks Barnett.
1. 1965 Fast Back Gaurdsman blue Wimbeldon white stripes
2. 331 stroker engine rated HP 400
spirited driving with occasional drag down the 1/4 (if we ever get another local drag strip in southern california.
I like the GW suspension due to the off set no need for shims for alignment lightweight
construction.
I do have the 620 springs with roller bearing spring perchs. Also have the poly strut rod
bushings. But the GW techs say to use a softer material bushing like there high density rubber bushings. the strut rod needs some play? what do you think about that.
3. I am looking into the borgenson P/S system complete with gearbox,shaft,lines and pump. Do you hear anything good. I got rid of the OEM ram actuator leaking system.
4. Got rid of oem drum style brakes upgraded to a 4 piston fixed caliper Kelsey hayes
CSRP(classic service restoration parts)
5. 3.55 8 inch rear diff. not a tru trac or posi unit. want to make it a limited slip of some make one of these days have any suggestions? will a OEM 8 inch diff handle the rated HP?
6. looking to buy a set of Koni's
7. what do you think of subframe connectors. can you suggest and good bolt on type
im not much of a fabricator.
thanks for your suggestions
look forward to your input.
1. 1965 Fast Back Gaurdsman blue Wimbeldon white stripes
2. 331 stroker engine rated HP 400
spirited driving with occasional drag down the 1/4 (if we ever get another local drag strip in southern california.
I like the GW suspension due to the off set no need for shims for alignment lightweight
construction.
I do have the 620 springs with roller bearing spring perchs. Also have the poly strut rod
bushings. But the GW techs say to use a softer material bushing like there high density rubber bushings. the strut rod needs some play? what do you think about that.
3. I am looking into the borgenson P/S system complete with gearbox,shaft,lines and pump. Do you hear anything good. I got rid of the OEM ram actuator leaking system.
4. Got rid of oem drum style brakes upgraded to a 4 piston fixed caliper Kelsey hayes
CSRP(classic service restoration parts)
5. 3.55 8 inch rear diff. not a tru trac or posi unit. want to make it a limited slip of some make one of these days have any suggestions? will a OEM 8 inch diff handle the rated HP?
6. looking to buy a set of Koni's
7. what do you think of subframe connectors. can you suggest and good bolt on type
im not much of a fabricator.
thanks for your suggestions
look forward to your input.
#6
I would use softer strut rod bushings, or upgrade to spherical-bearing strut rods. Overly stiff strut rod bushings can result in broken stock-style strut rods.
Good subframe connectors are weld-on. Plenty of body shops will weld them on for you.
Good subframe connectors are weld-on. Plenty of body shops will weld them on for you.
#8
why? . . this is an xlnt automatic undercarriage rust preventative system.
yes with good parts but there is at least a small chance your axles will twist a little especially if they are turned down in the middle.
the full sub frame connector from tcp but thats a bit overkill for your app but i would install some type.
#9
I did the Borgensen front steering in my 66 coupe. I like the response and it handles well. It was rather easy to install. I initially used my factory power steering pump but didn't like the feel. It was rather resistant. Later I added the Saginaw pump and it helped.
One thing to take not of, if and when you purchase the borgensen unit, the hoses that come with the kit are about 2 inches too short of a nice install. they do reach but will rest on your headers/exhaust manifold. I recommend taking them to a hose shop and getting slightly longer fittings on the ends or have a longer hose made.
after driving about a year and a half with the borgensen, I think I should have done a R&P.
I also have the bilstiens w/ roller perches, the blue 620 springs, uca drop. I do love the way it handles. As soon as I get my engine back in it im gonna try a little autocross.
One thing to take not of, if and when you purchase the borgensen unit, the hoses that come with the kit are about 2 inches too short of a nice install. they do reach but will rest on your headers/exhaust manifold. I recommend taking them to a hose shop and getting slightly longer fittings on the ends or have a longer hose made.
after driving about a year and a half with the borgensen, I think I should have done a R&P.
I also have the bilstiens w/ roller perches, the blue 620 springs, uca drop. I do love the way it handles. As soon as I get my engine back in it im gonna try a little autocross.
#10
Good info and your local that's great
i live in San Pedro
So I did the drop already 2 yrs ago.
I will be installing the GW arms
Uppers and lowers eventually
Forgot to mention Installing a AOD
Chat soon maybe we can meet.
Have a good day
yeah, im in orange county so i know what you mean.
the tcp does not use shims . . it is better than the global west . . also, as i mentioned, you do not have to drill holes in your shock towers to do the shelby drop with the tcp, but the global west ones certainly aren't "bad" and they certainly are far less expensive.
we installed dozens of urethane bushings and never saw one failure even on other peoples cars . . strut rod failure is extremely rare with these . . if it was common psace there would be a class action law suit and you would hear a lot more about it . . they simply need to be installed properly and not tightened excessively and in some cases, when the concave washers are used, the concave goes out . . it you put the concave portion facing the urethane, this puts a ton of stress on the bar and i have seen one on the internet that broke because of installing these washers the wrong way.
never tried it but i have read a lot of reviews and people like it . . some complain about its lack of automatic return to center but this can be corrected to some degree by increasing the caster to at least 4
why? . . this is an xlnt automatic undercarriage rust preventative system.
yeah the new one is about the only option unless you get and old traction lock unit.
yes with good parts but there is at least a small chance your axles will twist a little especially if they are turned down in the middle.
the full sub frame connector from tcp but thats a bit overkill for your app but i would install some type.[/QUOTE]
So I did the drop already 2 yrs ago.
I will be installing the GW arms
Uppers and lowers eventually
Forgot to mention Installing a AOD
Chat soon maybe we can meet.
Have a good day
yeah, im in orange county so i know what you mean.
the tcp does not use shims . . it is better than the global west . . also, as i mentioned, you do not have to drill holes in your shock towers to do the shelby drop with the tcp, but the global west ones certainly aren't "bad" and they certainly are far less expensive.
we installed dozens of urethane bushings and never saw one failure even on other peoples cars . . strut rod failure is extremely rare with these . . if it was common psace there would be a class action law suit and you would hear a lot more about it . . they simply need to be installed properly and not tightened excessively and in some cases, when the concave washers are used, the concave goes out . . it you put the concave portion facing the urethane, this puts a ton of stress on the bar and i have seen one on the internet that broke because of installing these washers the wrong way.
never tried it but i have read a lot of reviews and people like it . . some complain about its lack of automatic return to center but this can be corrected to some degree by increasing the caster to at least 4
why? . . this is an xlnt automatic undercarriage rust preventative system.
yeah the new one is about the only option unless you get and old traction lock unit.
yes with good parts but there is at least a small chance your axles will twist a little especially if they are turned down in the middle.
the full sub frame connector from tcp but thats a bit overkill for your app but i would install some type.[/QUOTE]