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horn issue

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Old 07-04-2015, 07:15 AM   #1
Join Date: Apr 2015
Vehicle: 1964.5 Ford mustang
Location: Tn
Posts: 20
Default horn issue

The horn doesn't work on my 64.5 mustang, not sure that it is properly wired. Any help would be appreciated
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Old 07-06-2015, 09:36 AM   #2
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Vehicle: 69 Mach1
Location: ABQ, NM, USA
Posts: 2,362

Sometimes the connectors come off the horns themselves...
69Mach1 - warmed up 395W (AFR 185s) and broken POS Gforce T5 with hydraulic clutch, 3.5" Alum DS, 3.50:1 posi, rack&pinion/tilt, 235/50ZR17x8 front & 285/40ZR18x9 rear, American Racing Nova wheels, all MSD, Holley 750, custom paint, headlight relays, Shelby drop & 2" lower all around, Hotwheels Redline scale is 1 to 1.
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Old 07-06-2015, 02:57 PM   #3
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Vehicle: 67 mustang coupe
Location: PA
Posts: 155

Mustang horns require 2 wires up the steering column. The button connects the power side not the ground side as in many newer cars. One side of the horn is grounded. If you test the non grounded side (blue and white) with a volt meter when some one hits the horn button you should see 12 volt. If not, the feed to the horn is actually through a yellow wire from the light switch. The Brake light (red wire) is also powered from the same terminal. There is an internal circuit breaker in the light switch, but if your brake lights work then you should have power to the yellow wire.
Brake lights work, no power to the horn = either bad contacts at the button or broken yellow or blue/white wire.
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Old 07-07-2015, 09:02 PM   #4
Mark Hone
Join Date: Dec 2013
Vehicle: 2014 v6 Premium + /66 "A" Code coupe
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 46

Try loosening the clamp under the dash and slide/pull the outer tube up. Mine was down about 1/2" and affected the horn. Mark
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Old 07-10-2015, 08:53 AM   #5
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Vehicle: 1967, Ford, Mustang Fastback
Location: Bangkok, Thailand
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James Musnicki
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Mustang horns pull a lot of juice. First connect your horns to a power source to ensure that they do work. Work your way back to the steering wheel...that's the last thing you'll want to do. I always look for the easy fix and then work my way into the hardest. Check your wires into the horn and the ground to the frame. If they're rusted out you won't get a good ground and the horns won't work (they pull a lot of juice). Work your way to the drivers side fire wall, near the break cylinder. You should be able to follow the horn wire (or taped up cluster of wires) through the fire wall and under the dash. If you don't see any issues there, then you can pull the horn cap on the steering wheel (you can do that first as well), make sure that there are two wires that connect to the button. If you have a voltage meter, you can test these wires, one should be a ground and the other should be hot (even when the car is off, but turn the key to ignition just in case). Because the horns pull a lot of juice, you may have to have the car running for the horns to work, if your battery isn't fully charged. The last step is to pull the steering wheel. I don't like how the horn contacts are set up in our cars, it causes easy wear and the horn to prematurely go out. Pull the horn contact plate, its made out of plastic that is coated with copper. There will be two metal contacts with springs that push the contacts onto the copper plated plate. The springs can go out or melt (if you had an electrical surge over the years), you can replace these springs with a spring from a ball point pen.

Best case is that a wire is loose somewhere. Worse case is that you'll need a new horn contact plate, in the steering wheel, and or need a new blinker module (because the horn contacts are in the blinker module).

I wish that I had some pictures, I couldn't find mine. My horn goes out everytime I am ready to do my yearly car inspection.


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Old 07-10-2015, 08:53 AM
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