Starfury

The factory elbow has a restrictor built in. You can pick one up from pretty much any chain parts store, although you have to bother the counter monkey to pull the manufacturer's illustrated book out to find it because I don't think it's listed in the computer for our cars.

The trick is, the factory elbow is something like 3/8" NPT, which is smaller than the stock 1/2" NPT port on most aftermarket intakes. You need a reducer bushing to make it work.

And while I agree with 67mustang302 in that system pressure is system pressure everywhere...I don't think that's entirely true. You can theoretically spike pressure to the heater core with high rpm's and a high-flow water pump.

groho

or, put in a manual heater control valve on the inlet hose, they're less than $20. Close it during the summer, and open it during the winter. can be cable operated like a manual choke. this way you don't freeze you eye-brows off during the winter. http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...-control-valve

You're gonna get me goin....Just went through that whole reducer thing with a thermostat sensor for my electric fan. Ended up having to get an NPT tap for an NPS thread to make the NPT reducer fit the NPS machined housing. say that three times...

barnett468

ok, well there are good parts made in mexico like the mexican 302 block, and there are bad parts made in mexico . . scott drakes core is nothing like the cheap pos cores that oreily uses.

barnett468

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this is incirrect . . a 15 lb cap will not "move fluid to the overflow" just because its a 15 lb cap, and that is NOT why mfgs use overflow bottles . . The fact is, if you have a big enough fan and rad etc, you do not even need a cap other than to simply keep the water from evaporating or spilling out when the thermostat opens . . this is because the water will be below boiling temp.

one of the things the pressure in the system does to some degree is reduce the potential for it to boil on the cylinder wall or head which causes a localized hot spot, but if you have a big enough system, you can literally run the temp at 100 degrees and there will likely not be any localized hot spots, but if there are, they will quickly go away when the thermostat opens allowing the lukewarm water to hit them and cool them down.

i have run 13, and 16 lb caps without an overflow and have never lost a single drop of water because i don't overfill my systems and i run systems that are good enough that i can run at 185 degrees in 100 degree heat with the ac on, but it requires proper tuning and an engine that isn't bored .040" over, and a lot of money.
.

barnett468

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heres the brass/copper drake core but it is $58.00, not $41.00

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sd...WWvBoC2FTw_wcB

Gun Jam

Yes Barnett that the one im running now.

I also like the idea of the flow control valve.
The heater cores I had always seems to leak after high engine rpm say above 5,000 they would fail with in a min of a high rpm run.

Thats what made me think of flow restriction. If there is less volume of water then there is less energy to do "work" read expand the core to bursting point. The pressure may be the same but im pretty sure volume also plays into the equation.

Thanks!

barnett468

you blew out a scott drake brass/copper heater core?

the valve is cheap and easy to find and needs to be installed on the inlet side of the core, however, the air pressure in will be exactly the same in the entire system even if you close the valve . . nothing in the world will change newtons laws of physics . . the only way to separate the heater core from the air pressure in the rest of the system is to install a shut off valve on both sides of the core.

Gun Jam

No I blew out the cheep Oh Really? Auto parts cores.

Are the Scott Drake cores that much better? They look nearly identical.

-Gun

barnett468

ok that makes more sense but its still hard to believe they are that crummy.



well, they used to be but things sometimes change.

kylehamilton79

Ford racing makes a restrictor that goes in the inlet port of the heater core to slow the flow of coolant through it. I've been needing to order one because I blew my heater core the same day it was installed. My heater core was from Mustangs Unlimited. It lasted 2 minutes at 115 mph. Fox body guys have the same problem and I've heard of them using a small socket to slow the flow.