Need Help w/ 67 Transmission swap
#1
Need Help w/ 67 Transmission swap
Hi, new to the forum here so I hope I'm posting this in the right section.
Can anyone give me some information, advice, opinions on how best to change a 1967 mustang coupe automatic transmission over to a manual transmission. I've read quite a few posts that suggest just going out and buying a project mustang that already has a manual transmission but that is not an option for me.
I'm certain that I want to keep this car. I just need some direction. Thanks
Can anyone give me some information, advice, opinions on how best to change a 1967 mustang coupe automatic transmission over to a manual transmission. I've read quite a few posts that suggest just going out and buying a project mustang that already has a manual transmission but that is not an option for me.
I'm certain that I want to keep this car. I just need some direction. Thanks
#2
First of all, why do you want to change it? Are you racing or cruising? If you use it to race the auto is probably better. However, the process is quite difficult. The driveshaft has to be modified. The rear crossmember has to be replaced, brake pedal assembly must be modified, and the engine needs a change from flexplate to flywheel.
Why isn't buying a project an option for you?
Why isn't buying a project an option for you?
#3
It's not too big of a deal if you have some tools and a place to do it, money doesn't hurt either. It 'll be easier if you get a 4 speed top loader. Their solid transmissions and will last a long time. If you want to go 5 speed for that nice overdrive at highway speeds the t5 is a good way to go. Yes you may need a different length driveshaft and I think another yoke. I can't recall. You'll also need a factory clutch pedal which may be a little pricey or you can modify a foxbody pedal which are cheaper. I think the trans tunnel needs to be opened with an air hammer also. If your going to run clutch cable you'll need a clutch quadrant and adjusting nut. Not to mention the flywheel for whatever size clutch you run plus pilot bearing. Headers come into to play with melting the clutch cable also. Just do some searching online and you'll find a lot of write ups of manual swaps into these cars.
Last edited by Mustangdemon67; 11-17-2015 at 11:46 PM.
#4
Other than the trans, clutch, PP and Driveshaft assembly, the main parts you need are a pedal assembly which is bolt in, the z bar which connects the linkages to the pedal and clutch fork. I don't recall ever having to mod the trans tunnel even with a TKO 500 swap but it has been a few years since I have done one.
Not too hard just look at pics and diagrams a few times and you will see most of what you need to know. Good luck it is worth it.
Not too hard just look at pics and diagrams a few times and you will see most of what you need to know. Good luck it is worth it.
#5
It depends on whether or not you are trying to don't on the cheap nor not. I did it and installed a t5. I trashed 3 of them before I purchased a custom built one which is much stronger. I do a lot of highway driving so the overdrive was a must for me.
If you do a t5 swap, I recommend do g a hydraulic clutch. There are a few threads in here explaining it. I pieced mine together and saved about 150 bucks doing it. In hind sight, I should have just bought the kit.
You will also need a Trans cross member which is easy too find. This is a new part and will be pretty cheap.
You may also have to have your drive shafts cut about 1 inch shorter. This is the only thing you will need to have a shop do. Make sure it is balanced... I initially ran my car without cm shortening the shaft but if I hit a hard bump it would bind. There was not enough play in the yolk.
If you do a t5 swap, I recommend do g a hydraulic clutch. There are a few threads in here explaining it. I pieced mine together and saved about 150 bucks doing it. In hind sight, I should have just bought the kit.
You will also need a Trans cross member which is easy too find. This is a new part and will be pretty cheap.
You may also have to have your drive shafts cut about 1 inch shorter. This is the only thing you will need to have a shop do. Make sure it is balanced... I initially ran my car without cm shortening the shaft but if I hit a hard bump it would bind. There was not enough play in the yolk.