69mach1377

It's been 11 years since my last alignment and I have dropped the car recently. So I've searched here and googled there and have found a few sources but...they all differ on what the specs should be. I don't seem to have any issues with steering, wandering, etc., just want to have it as good as can be.

Open Tracker says;
STREET SPECS *
Caster:+1.5° to +2.5° Manual Steer
+2.0° to +3.5° Power Steer
Camber:0 to -.5°
Toe:1/8″ in
STREET PERFORMANCE SPECS *
Caster:+1.5° to +2.5° Manual Steer
+2.0° to +3.5° Power Steer
Camber:-.5° to -1.5°
Toe:1/8″ in
* Caster and camber setting must be the same on both sides for proper handling

Daze says; These specifications are in order of importance.
1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.
2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.
3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.
4. 1/16" to 1/8” toe in

David Suesz, with thanks to Jeff Burgy says;
http://mustangbarn.com/assets/arning...nsion-drop.pdf
This one seems way off compared to the others.

And my old template references the SAAC for 64.5-70 stangs;
Caster +2*, Camber 0-.5* negative, Toe-in 1/8"

Okay, this is 2015... I have very good tires, larger wheels and flaming river manual rack and pinion steering. So what's the answer?

Starfury

I had regular access to an alignment machine a while back and had a chance to experiment with some of these without having to pay for a new alignment every time. I have a '67 with the Shelby drop, manual steering, and a roller idler.

I'd recommend:
2.5+* caster (or as much as you can get, but even on both sides)
-0.5* camber (I ran -1.0* for a while and it wore out the inner edge of my tires a bit)
-1/8" toe

69mach1377

Thanks.
My previous settings were pretty close to yours, except caster was 2* both sides.
My local Big-O shop seems to be afraid of working on classics and would not honor their black friday special of a free alignment check.

Starfury

Chickens. Mustangs aren't rocket science, especially '67+.

MonsterBilly

Probably since there guys are probably only 20 years old. Not saying there is anything wrong with young guys but most have probably seen nothing older than a 96 camero

69mach1377

Yeah, he started talking about European cars and that they would have to lookup and enter the specs manually...wah, wah, baby cry.

guitarman376

I recently had my car aligned. The shop owner literally was turning me away. I was explaining my cars setup to him and his eyes kinda just glazed over and he didn't want to touch my car.
To be specific my car has camber plates not the factory eccentric bolts and my springs fall out of place if the front end gets lifted in the air. On top of that I have a reinforced engine crossmember that ties in with the lower control arm bolts, which makes everything take a little longer too. However I told him to get it up on the rack and I can show him everything important and if he still feels uncomfortable we can work something out.
In the end he accepted my car at an hourly rate for labor, not their standard alignment charge, which was fine with me. Came out almost perfect the first time, just needs toe adjusted slightly.
I'd recommend trying something like this to the shops that refuse service (if you can trust the alignment guy).

69mach1377

Good advice. I think I'll look for a shop with an older guy, not just a computer jockey, who has done classics before now.
So what did it cost after all?

68SCode4speed

I went with OpenTracker's street specs on our warmed over '65 with a Shelby drop and it was spot on.

guitarman376

I paid $170 I think, with 3 months of free readjustment.