guitarman376

For a few reasons I installed RMP mounts, namely to help with driveline angle and to move things around if needed when I install headers. I ordered them with the 1/2" drop to help raise the transmission angle. They were super easy to install on passenger side, and the only tight spot on the drivers side was getting to the fore/aft sliding bolts. Removing the oil filter made it so much easier.

The install went very fast and easy overall. When I went to fasten the 3/4" eyelet bolts the bushing on passenger side looked fine but on the drivers side it looked the like bushings inner metal sleeve was directly touching the side of the chassis mount (instead of the side of the poly bushing like on passenger side). I am hoping that the bolt pressure and the engine running self-centers the bushings inner sleeve. I will watch and see what happens. Not that hard to remove if I have to.

I was kinda worried that the poly bushings would vibrate the car a lot more, because I have driven cars with different style poly mounts and with solid mounts and I know how bad it gets. That is why I talked about the bushing sleeve protruding, potentially creating a 'solid' mount. Despite this 'problem' I was pretty impressed with the dampening. A slight amount more vibration than stock , but to me it was most noticeable from an existing problem I have. My copper line for my mechanical oil pressure guage just can't keep quiet, I highly regret not purchasing an electrical gauge now. Live and learn.

One cool thing about these mounts is how far back it would let you move the engine back. I bet the transmission crossmember is the limiting factor for rearward movement, has anyone modified their crossmembers for rearward engine placement?

Gun Jam

I've run both RMP mounts the standard and the 1/2 drop for a total near 7 years

its an excellent mount that provides a welcomed amount of adjustment.

the 1/2 drop was too excessive for me from the start...the drag link would rub and the oil pan bolt would drag on the ground so I had to shim it just a bit but it worked well for many years.

I recently switched to TCP power rack and pinion and before the swap I ordered the RMP standard height plates for the mount so that I could get the clearance i needed between the rack and the oil pan. this is excellent as well...I use to tear stock mount about every 6 months the RMP mounts are very solid and provide suitable vibration damping.

If you are running the t5 and wish to improve pinion angle I found that at least on the 66 mustang the very best option is to notch the trans tunnel rib just enough to allow the shift rod housing to move up into it this will allow you to raise the tail of the t5 about 3/4 inch and get a very close to stock -3 deg slope. This worked much better for me than the RMP lowering mounts. But I dont know how this looks on a 69.

My x member is slotted and will allow for about 2" of trans placement... I run out of DS freeplay before I runout of rearward adj.

-Gun

fastbackford351

Curious...how does your oil pressure line make noise?

69mach1377

I'm guessing it's not tethered and is banging on something, which will lead to failure and loss of oil pressure.

guitarman376

The oil line is not 'banging' anything. It transmits vibrations from the engine to the dash, even though I isolated the line with grommets at the firewall. I even left room in case the engine movement pushes or pulls it. Its kind of a buzzing sound, and it totally sucks. I might try wrapping it in something to dampen it.

Right now I have the original fmx but I have a toploader I'm planning on swapping in. After I remeasure the driveline angles I will determine if I should shim transmission up or purchase pinion shims.

Speaking of which, I'm still not sure the best way to measure the transmission angle. I don't like the oil pan or trans pan method, but have been wondering what if I used something like the oil pan bolt heads? I want to ensure I can get this measurement accurate.

fastbackford351

What kind of line are you running on your oil pressure gauge?

69mach1377

I've had the plastic line for at least a decade now and the only issue was when I must have bumped it hard at the engine fitting which caused it to break and leak on startup. So I cut it clean, added a new ferule and motored on. No vibes at all.

guitarman376

I'm using a copper line, which probably is the reason for the vibration. I chose it over plastic to prevent damaging it and losing oil.

racer_dave

Use the plastic line- it'll be fine. Don't overtighten the ferrule and cut the line. You can even use nylon stuff they sell at the home improvement stores for humidifiers. They'll have the fitting too. Or, if you're paranoid about failure, run a braided line.

fastbackford351

That's odd.

I have used the same copper line that my brother installed in the fastback since 1991 and have never given it a second thought until last week when I changed the 2 5/8" Autometer gauge for a 2" SW. I was worried about it leaking after being static for so long but my worries were for naught. It seated just fine and sealed up tight as a drum.