Compression Test Results
02-28-2016, 09:36 PM
#12
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 5,208
There are a few reasons
1) worn rings
2) error in the testing equipment (but that doesnt account for the 130 psi spike)
3) dry lack of oil an engine that has been sitting for a while may develop less pressure.
4) improper valve seating (sticky or failure of seats)
5 )I think even carb throttle position may effect this...I think it should be done at wide open throttle
6) cranking duration did they just run it over for 2 revs with the throttle closed?
some other stuff too I cant think of right now.
I have larger heads on my 302 with larger combustion chambers and like 125k+ miles on the motor daily driven summers here get to 110 usually 105 whateves it still makes 135 psi and 290 hp on the dyno. So yes 90 psi is possibly worrisome...I would like to see the car driven for a few days then tested for at least 3 seconds worth of cranking time at WOT and compare numbers.
why is that a 30 thousand dollar ride? for that price there better be something wicked special about it.
-Gun
1) worn rings
2) error in the testing equipment (but that doesnt account for the 130 psi spike)
3) dry lack of oil an engine that has been sitting for a while may develop less pressure.
4) improper valve seating (sticky or failure of seats)
5 )I think even carb throttle position may effect this...I think it should be done at wide open throttle
6) cranking duration did they just run it over for 2 revs with the throttle closed?
some other stuff too I cant think of right now.
I have larger heads on my 302 with larger combustion chambers and like 125k+ miles on the motor daily driven summers here get to 110 usually 105 whateves it still makes 135 psi and 290 hp on the dyno. So yes 90 psi is possibly worrisome...I would like to see the car driven for a few days then tested for at least 3 seconds worth of cranking time at WOT and compare numbers.
why is that a 30 thousand dollar ride? for that price there better be something wicked special about it.
-Gun
02-28-2016, 11:35 PM
#15
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: CA
Posts: 9
That's true..
Any important tips on what i should look out for specifically in a 50yr old car?
What are the most common issues that arise in maintaining one of these cars?
Thanks again by the way withl all your help
Any important tips on what i should look out for specifically in a 50yr old car?
What are the most common issues that arise in maintaining one of these cars?
Thanks again by the way withl all your help
02-29-2016, 12:09 AM
#16
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 5,208
rust
If a car has crappy paint and looks rough but the floor pans are solid (usually you find rust holes in them at the curve about where the bottom of the gas pedal would sit) The cowl doesn't leak water (you can pour some down the vent slats at the base of the front window and it should run out at the base of the fenders and not onto the carpet) and the base of the doors directly under them and lower front isnt rotted out and the fenders aren't rotted out, the doors, hood and fenders, all line up well with no major dents...That is a solid start.
The car is an original 8 cylinder with 5 lug (this is good)
It starts and runs, Doesn't blow smoke, use excessive oil , doesn't use up water and has a working drive train and leaks only a small amount of fluids on the ground would indicate that its probably a pretty good buy even if its only between 8 and 12k and looks rough it may be a better car than one with a bunch of issues hidden by nice pant that someone wants 18k for
Redoing the entire interior could be done a a few weekends its really not difficult or that expensive like a whole new carpet of good quality direct fit is like 130 bucks...if it needs a new headliner that maybe a bit more work.
Paint can be done to make it look good
engine and trans are easy for any decent shop to rebuild if it needs that for a lot less than you might think.
-Gun
If a car has crappy paint and looks rough but the floor pans are solid (usually you find rust holes in them at the curve about where the bottom of the gas pedal would sit) The cowl doesn't leak water (you can pour some down the vent slats at the base of the front window and it should run out at the base of the fenders and not onto the carpet) and the base of the doors directly under them and lower front isnt rotted out and the fenders aren't rotted out, the doors, hood and fenders, all line up well with no major dents...That is a solid start.
The car is an original 8 cylinder with 5 lug (this is good)
It starts and runs, Doesn't blow smoke, use excessive oil , doesn't use up water and has a working drive train and leaks only a small amount of fluids on the ground would indicate that its probably a pretty good buy even if its only between 8 and 12k and looks rough it may be a better car than one with a bunch of issues hidden by nice pant that someone wants 18k for
Redoing the entire interior could be done a a few weekends its really not difficult or that expensive like a whole new carpet of good quality direct fit is like 130 bucks...if it needs a new headliner that maybe a bit more work.
Paint can be done to make it look good
engine and trans are easy for any decent shop to rebuild if it needs that for a lot less than you might think.
-Gun
02-29-2016, 12:16 AM
#17
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 5,208
oh yeah and unless there is something im missing about that car...I dont know why they want 30k for it especially if the brakes are bad and the interior has any issues.
for that price it should be all original (this is not I can tell straight away) with less than 30k miles on it OR it should be special something (I dont know much about that stuff) Or like super killer restore (I know its not that either)
Its clean but I would put its price at 18k....but thats me.
-Gun
for that price it should be all original (this is not I can tell straight away) with less than 30k miles on it OR it should be special something (I dont know much about that stuff) Or like super killer restore (I know its not that either)
Its clean but I would put its price at 18k....but thats me.
-Gun
Last edited by Gun Jam; 02-29-2016 at 12:19 AM.
02-29-2016, 12:32 PM
#19
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: CA
Posts: 9
Here is a link: http://www.myhotcars.com/1966-ford-m...htm?make=FORD&
I'll take your advice though, the numbers are suspect and guessing over priced for what it is
I'll take your advice though, the numbers are suspect and guessing over priced for what it is
02-29-2016, 01:31 PM
#20
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 5,208
I took a look on ebay and it looks like the price for 66 mustangs has doubled since last year this time.
Cool so I'm sitting on a 25,000 dollar car now! I know its way better than half that stuff on there they want 18k for.. So by all means shop around not just ebay try local stuff too you'll find a good score soon enough.
Cool so I'm sitting on a 25,000 dollar car now! I know its way better than half that stuff on there they want 18k for.. So by all means shop around not just ebay try local stuff too you'll find a good score soon enough.