67, short in the steering column?
#1
67, short in the steering column?
So I'm helping sis-in-law with her 67 convertible.
I changed the master cylender the other day, and not sure if it's related; but noticed today when holding the brake peddal dow as far as it'd go, the dash lights would flicker, and saw sparks/smoke come from where the steering column meets the fire wall.
It wouldn't do it every time I mashed the pedal, nor just holding it part way.
So I poke my head under there, can't see anything obvious.
But then just moving the steering column (like putting pressure on it in various angles would make it spark too, as does using the tilt wheel, and the tilt away thingy. So basicly any stong/firm movement.
Where should I begin looking? Could it simply be the brake switch? (are there multile ways to install it & it still work, ie light up when its supposed to)
I don't recall the turn signals in the hood working pre- brake job, but now they are. I might have just missed it before.
This is happening key off.
Any suggestions ???
I changed the master cylender the other day, and not sure if it's related; but noticed today when holding the brake peddal dow as far as it'd go, the dash lights would flicker, and saw sparks/smoke come from where the steering column meets the fire wall.
It wouldn't do it every time I mashed the pedal, nor just holding it part way.
So I poke my head under there, can't see anything obvious.
But then just moving the steering column (like putting pressure on it in various angles would make it spark too, as does using the tilt wheel, and the tilt away thingy. So basicly any stong/firm movement.
Where should I begin looking? Could it simply be the brake switch? (are there multile ways to install it & it still work, ie light up when its supposed to)
I don't recall the turn signals in the hood working pre- brake job, but now they are. I might have just missed it before.
This is happening key off.
Any suggestions ???
#2
Disconnect the battery asap. Look for chafed wires from the TS switch inside the column. Also look for a loose/broken fuse block. It is under there near the column. Also look for melted or frayed wires coming out of the fuse block or in the main bundle. I hate wiring. Good luck.
#3
Thanks; battery disconnected. Turn sign was on my to do list, there's a new cam waiting to be installed (left works, right won't latch/stay on)
I didn't see any obvious signs of fray, bare wires, but the only spark I see is at the firewall itself, not near any wires!
I assume something is putting positive on the column shaft, and when it touches the firewall, zap.
I didn't see any obvious signs of fray, bare wires, but the only spark I see is at the firewall itself, not near any wires!
I assume something is putting positive on the column shaft, and when it touches the firewall, zap.
#4
Foghorn Leghorn
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: I reside in a near constant state of amazment.
Posts: 2,923
If this all started after you installed the master cylinder, make sure you didn't pinch any wires or jostle any splices loose during the swap.
What kind of shape is your wiring harness in, in general? Is it pretty much intact or has it been hacked, whacked, spliced and diced for the last 50 years?
If you're getting enough juice to ground to cause smoke then you should be able to pick up the signal with a test light. So, stand on your head and really start going through with a fine tooth comb, the under the dash wiring.
protip from a rank amateur: If you're going to be under the dash for any length of time, pull the drivers seat out because once you reach a certain age/girth, diving under the dash gets uncomfortable as hell and any extra room you can find is well worth the 10 minutes it take to pull the seat out.
What kind of shape is your wiring harness in, in general? Is it pretty much intact or has it been hacked, whacked, spliced and diced for the last 50 years?
If you're getting enough juice to ground to cause smoke then you should be able to pick up the signal with a test light. So, stand on your head and really start going through with a fine tooth comb, the under the dash wiring.
protip from a rank amateur: If you're going to be under the dash for any length of time, pull the drivers seat out because once you reach a certain age/girth, diving under the dash gets uncomfortable as hell and any extra room you can find is well worth the 10 minutes it take to pull the seat out.
Last edited by fastbackford351; 04-11-2016 at 07:16 AM.
#5
One other area is the horn. Did you change the steering wheel? The horn button is not a ground button but a switch in the 12 volts to the horn. Some after market steering wheels have a spring clip that holds the horn button. Unless it is modified, it can touch the steering column. This causes problems in original steering columns because the column is grounded. If you insulated the new column when you installed with rubber mounts, it may be touching some part of the pedal or firewall when you put pressure on it or move it around.
#6
She did replace the steering with a replica a few years ago. She doesn't drive much so it could be related.
So no real way of knowing if I broke it, or it was already broken... will take much investigating into it.
Thanks for the leads!
So no real way of knowing if I broke it, or it was already broken... will take much investigating into it.
Thanks for the leads!
#9
Going to rewire the new cam and see what happens.
2 new questions. Is the big center cap thingy a horn also? Or should it be insulated?
Does this new part just screw into the plastic black piece inside here?
#10
Foghorn Leghorn
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: I reside in a near constant state of amazment.
Posts: 2,923
The emergency flasher know goes right where the old one came out of.
What kind of steering wheel are you working with? Is that the back side of the Cuisinart looking center piece of a factory 67 wheel?
Pics?
What kind of steering wheel are you working with? Is that the back side of the Cuisinart looking center piece of a factory 67 wheel?
Pics?