Mustang6713

Hello all, I searched the forum and didn't find any definitive answers. I am upgrading my carb from an Autolite 2100 2bbl to the Edelbrock 1406 4bbl. I have selected the Weiand Stealth 8020 as my new intake manifold. Everything else on the engine is stock.

What else will I need to complete the upgrade?

proeagles

You didn't say what CFM carb you were going to use but IMO unless you change the cam and possibly the heads to flow more air, you are wasting your money.

Starfury

I'd recommend a 500CFM version rather than the 600CFM. You'll get better throttle response with the smaller carb. Over-carbing is not a good thing.

If you have an automatic, you'll also need the Edelbrock Ford kickdown linkage set.

I'd also recommend the Fel Pro Performance 1250 intake gasket set. I've had better luck with that set than the factory-replacement set. A thin smear of Ultra Black RTV around each coolant port will help seal everything up.

Throttle linkage is different on the Edelbrock, so you're going to have to make something work. The snazzy fix is to use some all-thread inside a brake line with the flares cut off, put a slight bend in it, and screw some heim joints on the end. All in all, it's probably $20 worth of parts.

You'll need a timing light to reset the timing after you're done, a torque wrench, some Ultra Black (or Right Stuff, which is what I use) for the intake end seals, and some anti-sieze for the intake bolts. You should also replace the coolant and oil while you do this.

While the carb will probably work ok out of the box, I'd strongly recommend picking up one or two of the rod/jet/spring kits for it. The "factory tune" is meant to fit a wide variety of engines, not yours specifically.

Starfury

I disagree. When I did much the same thing (a long time ago), going from an Autolite 2100 to a 4100 and a Performer 289, I noticed improved throttle response and top end power.

He's not going to see the massive gains in peak power that a full top-end kit would provide, but driveability will improve.

Gun Jam

and I noticed improvements when switching from Edelbrock 4100 and going to a qft hr 650 built off the holley 4150 design. But the QFT did take more time and research to properly tune.

Mustang6713

I bought the standard intake manifold gaskets from Fel-Pro, but I can exchange them for the hi-po version that you suggested, Starfury. Is there an aftermarket throttle linkage that I can purchase instead of making on my own and jerry-rigging it? What rod/jet/springs would you suggest I pickup? I cannot find any kickdown linkage. This car is my daily driver and I have no plans of ever putting it on the track or racing it. I just need a more reliable carb than a rebuilt 2100, but the extra power is nice. I am planning to eventually get a 331 stroker built which I would move the carb and intake to when the time comes. Thank you for the help!

Would this throttle linkage work? http://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-dra...-1967/p/TRK21/

Here is a Throttle Lever Adapter that says 1968+, do I need this?http://www.cjponyparts.com/edelbrock...YqzhoCx8nw_wcB

Will this help with the throttle linkage? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...z5WBoC07Tw_wcB

I am planning on adding this on to help with fuel line routing. http://www.cjponyparts.com/edelbrock...e-feed/p/FL05/

Is this needed for the change? http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/...oductId=753856

Starfury

What's wrong with the 2100? Autolite 2100's and 4100's are very simple, very reliable carbs that work well for stock motors.

When you build a 331, you're going to need to pick components that work well together. What works well on a bone stock 289 is not going to work well on a hopped up 331, and visa versa.

If the 331 is your real goal, I'd suggest sticking with what you've got and saving up for the motor build. Trying to piecemeal things and swap over to the new motor is going to require compromise somewhere along the line.

If you're dead set on a 4V upgrade, we can help you, but I'd recommend you go into it with the understanding that the parts you buy now will not swap to the new motor.

Mustang6713

The 331 won't be for at least a few years, and I will be using a different block. As for the 2100, I have gone through two of them in 3 months, rebuilds done by a mechanic that I know and trust. The current 2100 I have on my 289 stalls my engine at every other red light unless I brake with my left and give a little gas with my right as I roll to a stop. I've spent enough money on rebuilds over the years that I could have bought an Edelbrock carb a few times over. Plus, down here in Orange County the carb rebuilders are charging about $200 for a rebuilt 2100 plus a core swap. I would rather drop the money into a brand new Edelbrock that will *hopefully* have less issues and serve me well on the road for years to come. I've already bought the Edelbrock carb so I would rather just stick with the upgrade.

Mustang6713

Starfury, between the Weiand Stealth (idle-6000rpm) vs the Weiand Street Warrior (idle-5500rpm) what would be better with the Edelbrock 1406? Everything else in the motor is stock.

Starfury

I'd wonder about something other than the carb at this point. Your problem sounds like it's coming from somewhere else, and the money you're talking about spending could be avoided if we can solve your problem without requiring a new carb.

There should be a dashpot on the carb to slow the throttle linkage as you let off the gas. Is there?

Also, if you have an auto, and assuming you have no kickdown linkage, there should be a vacuum line running from the vacuum modulator on the side of the transmission up to the intake somewhere. If so, you need to verify the integrity of this line, and also make sure the vacuum modulator is working, correct for the application, and adjusted properly (if adjustable).

What's the timing set at? Where is the vacuum advance hooked up, and is it working properly? What kind of ignition are you running (points vs electronic), and how big is your plug gap?

I'd like to figure this out before you spend any more money. If you go through an intake/carb swap and still have the same stall issue you did before, you're going to be extremely unhappy.