Bought a 69, need some guidance on getting it running
12-16-2016, 07:28 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: AZ
Posts: 32
Bought a 69, need some guidance on getting it running
So I recently sold my very first car in August, my '06 pony. The past couple years I've been dumping money into it, including a new engine and two transmission rebuilds. Figured if I was going to continue with this, might as well dump it into my dream car. Finally saved enough and bought a 69 fastback last night! Not having a mustang for the last 4 months has been brutal haha.
Here is the thing though, I may have gotten a little in over my head, but these forums have never let me down before. I did a lot of work on my '06, but never anything on the scale of what I'm about to do.
The car is not exactly in a box, but most of it is..
It's rolling, the engine is currently sitting under the hood, but I have no idea if it needs to come out top put everything else on or if it's even bolted in correctly? All new upholstery, I just need to install. All the trim, dash, bumpers, etc. is in a box.
My questions for the community are
1.) Where is the best place to start on a project like this? are there some good writeups already out there?
2.) The engine is a 351w 2bbl, can I just throw on a 4bbl intake and carb, or is there more to it than that? (engines are the thing I know least about sadly)
3.) It is currently an automatic transmission car. What all do I need to do to swap to manual? Figured this would be easiest to do while it's just a shell. I haven't been able to find much info in my searches, so I apologize as this seems like a common question. I will eventually put a bigger engine in the car with a goal of around 600hp. TKO600 seems to be what I keep seeing recommended, any thing I should know about fitting this in the car (if it's the correct choice for me)
I appreciate all the help you guys can offer, feels good to be back and working on a mustang!
Here is the thing though, I may have gotten a little in over my head, but these forums have never let me down before. I did a lot of work on my '06, but never anything on the scale of what I'm about to do.
The car is not exactly in a box, but most of it is..
It's rolling, the engine is currently sitting under the hood, but I have no idea if it needs to come out top put everything else on or if it's even bolted in correctly? All new upholstery, I just need to install. All the trim, dash, bumpers, etc. is in a box.
My questions for the community are
1.) Where is the best place to start on a project like this? are there some good writeups already out there?
2.) The engine is a 351w 2bbl, can I just throw on a 4bbl intake and carb, or is there more to it than that? (engines are the thing I know least about sadly)
3.) It is currently an automatic transmission car. What all do I need to do to swap to manual? Figured this would be easiest to do while it's just a shell. I haven't been able to find much info in my searches, so I apologize as this seems like a common question. I will eventually put a bigger engine in the car with a goal of around 600hp. TKO600 seems to be what I keep seeing recommended, any thing I should know about fitting this in the car (if it's the correct choice for me)
I appreciate all the help you guys can offer, feels good to be back and working on a mustang!
12-17-2016, 08:58 AM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 5,896
Congratulations!
First thing, pick up a copy of the Factory Service Manual. It'll set you back ~$40, but it's worth every penny.
Personally, I'd start with the brakes/suspension repairs and upgrades. Make sure the brakes hold pressure and the suspension and steering aren't loose before you try to go anywhere. All the go-power in the world won't matter if you can't stop and turn.
Yes, you can slap a 4bbl intake/carb on the motor, however it might not be the best idea right now depending on how far away your dream motor is. The 4bbl intake/carb that work well with the stock motor aren't the same as the ones that will work with the motor you'd like to build, so you'll end up having to replace them again once the motor is built the way you want it.
In the meantime, change the oil, prime the oil pump, and run a compression check on the motor to get an idea of the condition it's in. If you can, get it running before you decide what you want to do with it.
Manual swaps are supposedly a PITA. That said, you're right, now might be the best time to do it. TKO's are decent transmissions for torque monster motors, but they do have rpm limitations and can have serious issues if you want to shift >5800rpm. May not be a deal breaker for you, but something to keep in mind. If you're not doing to be driving it on the freeway very often, you might consider a regular old Toploader. They're impressively strong, and can be built to be even stronger if you need them to be.
Feel free to ask questions along the way!
First thing, pick up a copy of the Factory Service Manual. It'll set you back ~$40, but it's worth every penny.
Personally, I'd start with the brakes/suspension repairs and upgrades. Make sure the brakes hold pressure and the suspension and steering aren't loose before you try to go anywhere. All the go-power in the world won't matter if you can't stop and turn.
Yes, you can slap a 4bbl intake/carb on the motor, however it might not be the best idea right now depending on how far away your dream motor is. The 4bbl intake/carb that work well with the stock motor aren't the same as the ones that will work with the motor you'd like to build, so you'll end up having to replace them again once the motor is built the way you want it.
In the meantime, change the oil, prime the oil pump, and run a compression check on the motor to get an idea of the condition it's in. If you can, get it running before you decide what you want to do with it.
Manual swaps are supposedly a PITA. That said, you're right, now might be the best time to do it. TKO's are decent transmissions for torque monster motors, but they do have rpm limitations and can have serious issues if you want to shift >5800rpm. May not be a deal breaker for you, but something to keep in mind. If you're not doing to be driving it on the freeway very often, you might consider a regular old Toploader. They're impressively strong, and can be built to be even stronger if you need them to be.
Feel free to ask questions along the way!
12-17-2016, 09:47 AM
#3
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: ABQ, NM, USA
Posts: 2,593
Also keep in mind that a TKO or tranny larger than a T5 may require some metal cutting to make it fit.
IIRC, AODs fit pretty good also if you are not up to a complete sway over. At least it will provide a highway gear...
IIRC, AODs fit pretty good also if you are not up to a complete sway over. At least it will provide a highway gear...
12-17-2016, 02:03 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: AZ
Posts: 32
Picked up a service manual today, I know just how much of a life saver that is!
A manual transmission is a must for me, but hell if I know where to start. I know I'll need a transmission, clutch, clutch pedal, flywheel, clutch line, but the rest is mystery. Did these cars have an e-brake in the center or did all models have the parking brake pedal?
A manual transmission is a must for me, but hell if I know where to start. I know I'll need a transmission, clutch, clutch pedal, flywheel, clutch line, but the rest is mystery. Did these cars have an e-brake in the center or did all models have the parking brake pedal?
12-17-2016, 07:26 PM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: MT
Posts: 276
I would also pick up the book How to Restore Your Mustang. The manual swap is much easier to do now that all the parts are available in reproduction form. You also have the option of going to a hydraulic clutch. There is a book (more of a pamphlet) called the Mustang Illustration Guide. It is all the illustrations from the shop manual in one place. Study it or the pictures in the shop manual about how the linkage all works. I converted my 70 to manual and my 67 and 89 as well.
12-21-2016, 12:59 PM
#7
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: PA
Posts: 424
I go with Starfury! Make sure it stops first. DO what ever replacements and upgrades are needed to the brake system so you know once running down the road you can stop it. This means master cylinder, brake booster, brake pedal pivot, equalizer, pads and disks.
Next, again as Starfury said, rework the front end. New shocks and springs, bushings, ball joints tie rod ends, sway bar etc.. Check the power steering if it has it and the steering box.
This way when pointed down the road it stays on the road.
After all this work I would want to get out in the car. So get the stock engine running and do the minimum to the electrical's to be sure you have tail lights.
Take it for a little spin, not too far, now you have something to judge the rest of your effort against.
Then pull up the carpets and check that there is a floor. Take care of the structure, torque boxes, cowl, shock towers, rear spring mounts. By the way, it makes it easier if you pull the front fenders before doing the front suspension. And you can repair the battery plate which has probably rusted out due to battery acid.
Once you know it goes down the road, stops and steers safely, then you can think about the engine and transmission and the electrical's. If you try all at once, some body structure steering or suspension problems may be causing headaches that you think are because you replaced the tranny etc.
That is unless you are one of those shops you see on TV with 5 guys working on it with 15 years of experience each and mucho bucks. Then just rip her down to the frame and go at it.
Next, again as Starfury said, rework the front end. New shocks and springs, bushings, ball joints tie rod ends, sway bar etc.. Check the power steering if it has it and the steering box.
This way when pointed down the road it stays on the road.
After all this work I would want to get out in the car. So get the stock engine running and do the minimum to the electrical's to be sure you have tail lights.
Take it for a little spin, not too far, now you have something to judge the rest of your effort against.
Then pull up the carpets and check that there is a floor. Take care of the structure, torque boxes, cowl, shock towers, rear spring mounts. By the way, it makes it easier if you pull the front fenders before doing the front suspension. And you can repair the battery plate which has probably rusted out due to battery acid.
Once you know it goes down the road, stops and steers safely, then you can think about the engine and transmission and the electrical's. If you try all at once, some body structure steering or suspension problems may be causing headaches that you think are because you replaced the tranny etc.
That is unless you are one of those shops you see on TV with 5 guys working on it with 15 years of experience each and mucho bucks. Then just rip her down to the frame and go at it.
12-21-2016, 10:46 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: AZ
Posts: 32
Appreciating the advice guys! Was a little overwhelming at first, but I just fixed up the brakes and moving on to suspension now. Starting to gain momentum and feeling really good about it.
The front end seems to be sitting pretty high right now and it doesn't seem like putting in the transmission and is going to really bring it down much further. Anyone know what might be the issue here? Just a matter of getting everything in there or is there something I might be overlooking?
The front end seems to be sitting pretty high right now and it doesn't seem like putting in the transmission and is going to really bring it down much further. Anyone know what might be the issue here? Just a matter of getting everything in there or is there something I might be overlooking?