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whats up guys i havd a quick question, i was wondering if you guys can help me out. I just got the engine running after sitting for 3 months, and it started right up, its a 289 with edelbrock performer rpm mani., holley street avenger 570 carb, hooker headers, everything else is basically stock. i turned it on the idle was fine, i reved it up it sounded great no problems no hesitation, but as soon as i put in drive and try to give it gas it stumbles and wants to turn off and it will if i dont let go of the gas. any ideas?
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First off, Welcome to the Forum! out of curiosity, what kind of import did you have? good choice making the switch!
Im no expert, but I believe there is an idle setting for when the car is in drive that may need adjustment. some of the other guys should be able to help you out a little more.
lets see some pics of the stang!
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1966 Mustang Coupe w/ 289, C4, HEI dizzy, restored interior, Unique wheels, Custom Autosound stereo, more to come soon. Dark Moss Green.
2005 Subaru Legacy GT- daily driver w/ SPT cold air intake, momo shift knob, and STi pedals. Obsidian Black Pearl.
Long shot, but if the valve adjustment is out, as in too tight, the engine will run fine
but will have no power. So when you put it in gear it will die. Idle would be fine.
Otherwise if that has not been touched i would check the carb for water/dirt/adjustment
and check the timing is set correctly.
Try turning the idle set screw about one full turn and try it again.
Welcome to the forum! That was my first thought too. It could also be timing. Try setting your timing using the advance and retard method for best idle then set your mixture screws.
Kip
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They should have made our classic mustangs with jackstands instead of wheels. Or at least made them a dealer option.
cool thanx for the welcome. i still have my 99 acura integra gsr...its my daily driver....trying to make the mustang my weekend street/strip car. i did try advancing and retard the timing. it did the same thing. yeah the choke is working fine, i let the car idle to get to operating temp. the weird thing is in park and neutral i can rev the engine and its fine no stuttering no hesitation, and its not as soon as i put it in drive its when its in drive and then i give it gas when it starts stumbling.
because if your in park the engine is unloaded and develops an extra 200 or so rpm. If your right at tolerable lower limits say 600 rpm in park when you shift in to R or D the rpm drops to 400 which is too low to produce enough kinetic energy or whatever else it might make to maintain life.
RPM in park should be about 750
really its probably more related to dirt in the carb or incorrect idle jet settings...could just need that rpm boost too.
Also check for vacuum leaks by visually inspecting the hoses and port plugs or using a large propane torch unlit and using the raw gas to invoke an rpm change at the location of a vacuum leak....fogging carb cleaner around the suspected locations also works.
-Gun
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Masters of Industrial Technology intelligence thats why I own guns made to drop elephants.
because if your in park the engine is unloaded and develops an extra 200 or so rpm. If your right at tolerable lower limits say 600 rpm in park when you shift in to R or D the rpm drops to 400 which is too low to produce enough kinetic energy or whatever else it might make to maintain life.
RPM in park should be about 750
really its probably more related to dirt in the carb or incorrect idle jet settings...could just need that rpm boost too.
Also check for vacuum leaks by visually inspecting the hoses and port plugs or using a large propane torch unlit and using the raw gas to invoke an rpm change at the location of a vacuum leak....fogging carb cleaner around the suspected locations also works.
-Gun
if you don't have a blow torch try spraying WD-40 at all vacuum hoses while idling in park.
if the rpms go up or down doing this then the there seems to be a leak.
as you have an automatic check on vacuum lines going from there to engines as well. Same thing when you have power assisted brakes, then there should be a vacuum line going from there to engine as well.
If you have power assisted brakes, try as well to disconnect and block the vacuum hose to the power booster and blocking it.
(If this resolves your issue then the booster is leaking. Don't drive a power assisted car without that hose. just for testing.
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1964 1/2
302ci, Edelbrock RPM heads and cam, 650 speed demon, Long Tube headers and Flowmaster 40s
Quick Performance Racing 9" rear, Moser axles, 3.5:1 trac-loc from FRPP and T5 transmission.
CSRP disc brakes front and FRPP discs back. http://www.gascc.ie
Typically, stumble (the event you've described) when the throttle is advanced is caused by accelerator pump issues, running too lean orrunning too rich ,or the idle speed is too low. Check for the last problem first, raise the curb idle speed to about 600 - 625 RPM in drive. if it still stumbles, look at the accel pump squirt, is it none, too little or too much? Lastly look for missing vacumn caps on the base of that carb. if they're all there it may be crud in the carb and a quick rebuild is in order.
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1967 289 engine dies in drive
