You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
68 Coupe
Yes I used a torch to remove the lead. It was very easy. When I put the new quarter on solidly, I drilled through the new panel through the original spot welds to get to the subframe underneath. (didn't drill through that) That way I could weld it (the new panel) to the actual structure of the car then weld the sail panel to the new panel through the drilled out welds. ( I hope that makes sense) Then for overkill I drilled a few holes in the framework from the inside and welded from that direction as well.
I put some quarters on a 65 a couple of years ago and didn't weld it very solidly at all and it cracked along that line in about 6 months. I also just used regular filler, really bad mistake.
I was going to use metal to metal or re-lead and have talked to numerous people that told me to use Dyna Glass short strand fiberglass for the seam. It is waterproof and very strong.
On the C scoop part, the problem I had was when you get the panel in the right place top and bottom, push the middle in to the jamb, the top of the C area kind of sticks out where the door won't shut. I had to work on it a little to get the line straight.
Good luck.
__________________
66 Coupe
289
Auto
Hooker Comp headers
Flowmaster dual exhaust
Crane RV cam
Edelbrock Performer 289
Edelbrock 600
adrenolin,
When you say the top C scoop contour extended into the door jamb, do you mean towards the door (ie no gap between door and quarter) or did it extend towards the car interior? I guess with a cutoff wheel and a welder I can make about anything fit eh?!
The top C scoop contour extended towards the door. While the rest of the quarter <=> door gap was good that point extended al least 3/8" to far (ie towards the front of the car) which kept the door from closing. Took about 2 to 3 hours the next day to correct that but it turned out fine.
__________________ GT 351 - 67 Mustang / 68 Shelby Conversion (GT351.net)
Modified 351w, 4-Spd Toploader, Coil-Over Suspension, Power R&P, 4-Wheel Disks,
Currie 9" Rear with 3.25 & TrueTrac, Ron Francis Wiring, Vintage Air, Intermittent Wipers,
Sequential Tail Lights, Power Windows & Locks, Rear Window Defrost, Heated Seats.... Oct 2009 Mustang Forums ROTM Winner!
We decided to not use the entire panel. Instead we cut the top inch or so off the new quarter as well as up a couple inches at the bottom between the door jam and the wheel well. This allowed us to not replace the top line which was fine, leave the lead alone and made it easier along the bottom by the rockers. The rear we left alone wrapping around as the new panel should. Spot welds every 1 to 1.5 inches depending on area then ground down.
We'll use a long strand fiberglass body fill to fill along this for a good solid seal then skim with regular body fill.
__________________ GT 351 - 67 Mustang / 68 Shelby Conversion (GT351.net)
Modified 351w, 4-Spd Toploader, Coil-Over Suspension, Power R&P, 4-Wheel Disks,
Currie 9" Rear with 3.25 & TrueTrac, Ron Francis Wiring, Vintage Air, Intermittent Wipers,
Sequential Tail Lights, Power Windows & Locks, Rear Window Defrost, Heated Seats.... Oct 2009 Mustang Forums ROTM Winner!
cfd2bc,
Thanks for the explanation. It makes perfect sense, and it is good to know that if it isn't welded in stury that the body filler will crack. I will take a close look at the C scoop fitup and make sure that it all lines uop correctly. Poor fitup of the quarter skins is the reason I have to replace both of mine. Thanks!!!
Adrenolin,
I am assuming you made butt joints on the panels....Whoever did mine just cut the old quarter off about 3/4" below the beltline and overlapped the new quarterskin over that and spot welded it on. They then made the top quarter panel contour with bondo, sanded it to shape and called it good Thanks for posting the photo. It is good to see how nice the replacement can actually fir
Yeah I bought a tool that pops the holes for spot welds and also creates a crease for metal inlay. Plugs into our compressor.. forget exactly what its called sorry. Below is a shot of the crease it makes and the new sheet metal sits in flush with the original. Works very nicely.
As for the seam, as I stated, we'll use a fiberglass body fill first to fill and seal the seam which should keep it from cracking. Regular body fill after and then the entire car gets spray filler. Next time I see the car will be Jan & Feb and will be bodywork time.
__________________ GT 351 - 67 Mustang / 68 Shelby Conversion (GT351.net)
Modified 351w, 4-Spd Toploader, Coil-Over Suspension, Power R&P, 4-Wheel Disks,
Currie 9" Rear with 3.25 & TrueTrac, Ron Francis Wiring, Vintage Air, Intermittent Wipers,
Sequential Tail Lights, Power Windows & Locks, Rear Window Defrost, Heated Seats.... Oct 2009 Mustang Forums ROTM Winner!
There was a bit of warping but the lighting really exaggerates it. The new replacement panels need so much body work the slight bit of warpage is insignificant.
__________________ GT 351 - 67 Mustang / 68 Shelby Conversion (GT351.net)
Modified 351w, 4-Spd Toploader, Coil-Over Suspension, Power R&P, 4-Wheel Disks,
Currie 9" Rear with 3.25 & TrueTrac, Ron Francis Wiring, Vintage Air, Intermittent Wipers,
Sequential Tail Lights, Power Windows & Locks, Rear Window Defrost, Heated Seats.... Oct 2009 Mustang Forums ROTM Winner!
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company
Thanks!!!
Thanks for posting the photo. It is good to see how nice the replacement can actually fir
thanks everybody
