Urban, FakeSnake or Anyone, Help - Page 2

fakesnakes · 01-20-2009, 06:44 PM

These, a 7/16-14 tap (3/8" hole is the drill size for a 7/16 coarse thread, so no drilling is required), and about 1/2 day work to tap 16 holes is all you really need:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

It is amazing to me that for $22 in parts and a half days work, all that money could have been wasted. The trick set up is then to install theserail roller rockers for another $160 (of course it is easy for me to spend other peoples money):

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku

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fakesnakes · 01-20-2009, 06:51 PM

All valve springs come with specs indicating when they will bind. It is engine building 101 to check for valve spring bind anytime a new cam/springs are installed. Typically, for a cam with that lift, bind would not be a problem, however I don't know what those spring specs are, so it is possible. You can check it by rotating the engine by hand and measuring the height of the valve spring both when the spring is fully compressed and when the the valve is closed. Compare your readings to the spring specs. Also, before you do that screw a 3/8" nut about three quarters of the way on to the rocker stud of the valve spring you are going to check and tap it several times with a hammer to ensure it is fully seated. Not crushing blows, but enough to seat the stud, you will be able to feel and hear the difference. The nut protects the thread, so remove it once the stud is seated and take the measurements.

MonsterBilly · 01-20-2009, 07:16 PM

Here is what i am going to ask the guy to do.

I am going to order the screw in studs.

I will remove the head and take it to him. I want him to replace the valve. I will then tap all the stud holes and install the screw in studs. ( how hard is it to get the studs out?)
I will then install the head and finish the assembly. that way i know it is correct.

Would i be best off just to remove the engine? I do need to swap out the pilot bushing anyway?

MonsterBilly · 01-20-2009, 07:16 PM

I think he should pay for a new gasket kit.

fast66 · 01-20-2009, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fakesnakes

All valve springs come with specs indicating when they will bind. It is engine building 101 to check for valve spring bind anytime a new cam/springs are installed. Typically, for a cam with that lift, bind would not be a problem, however I don't know what those spring specs are, so it is possible. You can check it by rotating the engine by hand and measuring the height of the valve spring both when the spring is fully compressed and when the the valve is closed. Compare your readings to the spring specs. Also, before you do that screw a 3/8" nut about three quarters of the way on to the rocker stud of the valve spring you are going to check and tap it several times with a hammer to ensure it is fully seated. Not crushing blows, but enough to seat the stud, you will be able to feel and hear the difference. The nut protects the thread, so remove it once the stud is seated and take the measurements.

Check out this link to compcams. For this cam, with LESS lift than MonsterBilly, they recommend head machining to avoid spring bind.
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=893&sb=2

I would be measuring everything VERY carefully, including piston to valve clearance.
BTW, Does the guy that did your heads know what cam you are using?

fakesnakes · 01-20-2009, 08:13 PM

You can buy a stud extraction tool, but it is actually easier to slip 3/8 drive socket over the stud, square drive side up (pick one that leaves about 1/2" thread sticking out. Put a grade 8 washer over that and thread on a grade 8 nut. tighten the nut with an air rachet (or use a manual rachet if you have time to burn and manly arm strength), and it will pull it right out.

my77stang · 01-20-2009, 08:30 PM

since the heads need to come off anyways to replace that valve, you should be getting new exhaust valves too. I don't know why you replaced the intakes and not the exhausts, they take so much more abuse. and while we're talking about exhaust, did you get hard valve seats installed?

MonsterBilly · 01-20-2009, 10:41 PM

Yes 77 i believe he installed hard valve seats. he only installed the Intake valves because the exhaust valves were in great shape. I saw them myself before he started the head work.

I decided to remove my engine and take the whole thing to him. I dont want them leaning over my fender and working on it. I have new paint. I can only imagine what the finish would look like when i get it back.

Should i invest in a set of rollers for thse heads or wait to spend the $ until i get new heads. Thing is $ is slim right now because i own a pool co. and my wife is a realtor. We happen to be in one of the highest foreclosure areas in the country and i cant get a customer financed to safe a life.

new heads are on the long term plans now.

fakesnakes · 01-20-2009, 10:48 PM

The cheapest rail roller rockers for your engine are around $150, but they will not work on aftermarket aluminum heads (non-rail, guide plates), so they would be a throw away or used sale. I'd probably stick with what you have and upgrade when you buy new heads.

I can't really tell how damaged the valve stem end is from your picture, but he may try to put a lash cap on the end and say it will be okay. I would not recommend that approach. He should replace the valve.

MonsterBilly · 01-20-2009, 11:02 PM

Can the valves be purchased individually?

I may just buy a set of cheaper rollers and when i buy new heads just include them when i ebay or craigslist the heads.