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Setting #1 piston into firing position for #1 spark plug on distributor.
1) Remove valve cover and #1 Spark plug and turn crank in operating direction until you see intake valve close,continue turning crank until you see top of the Piston in hole. STOP.. Observe Distributor Rotor position and timing marks on Harmonic balancer.
2)with remote starter and coil disconnected ..Remove #1 Spark Plug and insert finger into hole and crank engine until you feel the compression of air push on your finger..STOP verify the position of things I mentioned above,
If the distributor won't align with oil pump rod,use a one piece socket screw driver to turn pump rod one direction or other until distributor seats and bottoms out remembering that the rotor/distributor shaft will turn as you install it.
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My Name Is Dennis and I Approve This Message !
i'm sorry, not trying to flame you here, but i dont really see where you are saying where the exact problem is. the title of the post says that the motor wont turn over. not turning over means that the starter is not engaging at all. turning over, meaning the crank is actually turning. Every internal combustion engine needs three basic things to run,
1)air
2)fuel
3)spark.
and you very well may be 180 out on the dizzy, this is what happened to me when i pulled it out when i installed my new manifold.
Eh eh buddy... not turning over means it won't fire and run... But to apease an illiterate in this case, and I use the term in the least offensive mannor, the engine cranks but won't fire...
If you've checked your wiring, twice, and three times, as you said (I did the same) and it's in order. The next thing to do would be check your spark just pull a wire from one of the spark plugs and hold it near a ground. About 1/4 inch away. If you get spark replace it. I did, so I did just that.
Finally, I started messing with my idle adjustment. I tightened it all the way down, and gave it a few pumps on the throttle. It fired up, but was idling way too high. So, I killed it, and re-adjusted. My point in all this is check that you're getting fuel. Like I said earlier, I was having the same issues you were having, and this worked. If it doesn't help at all we'll try to figure something else out. But it worked in my case.
When one says the engine isnt turn over i picture the motor not turning over at all. Do you know for sure that its not firing? again, i mean that there is no spark getting to the plugs? what is the status of your problem now. best of luck to you, i know these problems can be very frustrating. But the beauty of these non-ECU engines are that they are generally easier to diagnose and track down the culprit.
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1968 C code Coupe
Smoothed out and HOK True BLUE.
17X8 TT2's, 235/45 up front 245/45 in the back
JL audio in the trunk
THis summer:
New exhaust
Rework front suspension
And these disc brake things everyone keeps talkin about.
Eh eh buddy... not turning over means it won't fire and run... But to apease an illiterate in this case, and I use the term in the least offensive mannor, the engine cranks but won't fire...
Er.. No it doesn't
Not Turning over means just that.... the crank isn't rotating.. meaning a NO CRANK situation Starting system problems.
Won't FIRE means it won't run on it's own. Aka: Ignition system problems.. TWO entirely different things
In total respect
Logical and common sense states.
Yes people Hate being told what to do.
Well, a School Education is supposed to teach a person how to think,write,speak by the time they reach adulthood
If they mess up later in life.. expect to be told about it... so accept it and change.
and Yes.."Appease with Manners"
How about : *Engine crank... no start *
We're here to help.. please remember that
TOPIC:
Have you performed a ....Timing chain to gear SLOP TEST ?
Perhaps the engine is a hi-miler and the engine is out of time crank to cam ....mechanically?
__________________
My Name Is Dennis and I Approve This Message !
Not a bad idea million. I had to replace mine. As far as the title issue. I think all of us know what's going on now, let's just let bygones be bygones, and get his engine running.
Now that we're on the subject, ideas on how high idea should be set? Mine is only running if I continue pumping it.
Pulled #1 plug, and I'm getting a good Kernal... But put my finger over the hole while my wife tried to crank it. It didn't seem to have as much compression as it should. So now that I know I'm getting good spark and fuel, I'm thinking it's a compression issue. I rechecked the roller rockers and even backed them off, thinking they were too tight and the exhaust valves weren't able to close all the way. Instead of 1/2 turn after taking the play out I first tried 1/4 turn. Still seemed a little weak on compression so I tried just barely tightening them and now I seam to have better compression when cranking, but my battery is now worn down from trying and on the charger. I now pose a couple new questions... #1 - Should I use a shorter push rod with roller rockers as oppossed to stock even though they are the same ratio (1.6)? #2 - Is there a better way to adjust these things? the books all say just take the play out and give it a 1/2 turn, but that's for stock rockers.
Oh yeah, when I rebuilt the top end I also installed a new cam/lifter/timing set as it had the original teflon type timing gear, so I went with a double roller. So it shouldn't have any excessive play, and I can say without any doubt that it is in sync with the crank, unless the brand new chain slipped or something silly.
Eh eh buddy... not turning over means it won't fire and run... But to apease an illiterate in this case, and I use the term in the least offensive mannor, the engine cranks but won't fire...
Sorry man. I've been in the auto repair industry for over 8 years and even own my own auto repair shop and when someone says that a car is not turning over, that means its not cranking. When you say a car is not starting, that means it cranks but does not fire up.
And what kind of way is this to respond to someone who is offering advice and trying to help with your problem?
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