Fuel & Brake lines - Page 2

pass1over · 05-14-2009, 09:38 AM

meant to say, I just ran 2 new hard lines in mine, both 3/8

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fakesnakes · 05-14-2009, 09:40 AM

Just a warning, many braided fuel lines leech vapor meaning your car will smell like fuel as it sits. Also, you can run the lines following the stock layout which in my opinion is best for a 67/68 Mustang. Basically, the fuel line leaves the tank and travels down the outside of the drivers side frame rail, goes through the torque box (you will see a hole that allows up to about a 3/8" to 1/2" hard line to pass through), under the shock tower, and makes a 90 degree turn through the 3/4" hole in the front inner fender. This positions it right next to the position for the mechanical fuel pump (which you do not have. As an alternative, you could run the line on the inside of the frame rail. I would avoid the tunnel (this is where it runs on a 65/66) as it is exposed to the rotating assembly and you do not want any chance of a malfunction resulting in a ruptured fuel line! You could then come up the firewall and over to your regulator. Did you consider my earlier suggestion about reinstalling your carb fuel rail to point towards the firewall and avoid the 180 degree fitting?

kalli · 05-14-2009, 09:54 AM

I'm in the process of ordering a new fuel pump (electric as well). Since my Edelbrock carb has the inlet at the rear side I'll probably go up the firewall as well instead of going the original route. In my car it doesn't even go through the fender but passes the engine mount. So I wanted to change that anyway.

Kalli

trashline · 05-14-2009, 09:58 AM

I used the stock location for the brake lines. with all new steel lines.

fuel line is SS braided from tank to to 1/2 aluminum hard line. This line runs straight under the floor pan along the subframe connectors, once I get to the tq box it follows the factory line routing till under the shock tower. then I converted back into SS braided line with fuel filter which runs into the engine compartment, everything in the engine compartment is braided until the dual feed which is a hardline setup w/ FP gauge. I still need to install my second fuel filter after the pump, just havnt gotten there yet, same with the rear sump in my stock tank.

JMD · 05-14-2009, 01:20 PM

IMO, fuel and brake lines can be run any way that a person likes, so long as the installation is intelligent, clean, and well secured. Routed AWAY from moving parts and exhaust, while also routing the lines in a place protected from road hazards.

This all being the case, stock routing usually considers all of these items to one degree or another. Car modifications can often mandate "rethinking" stock locations. (i.e. adding dual exhaust that will be very close to stock location of lines, etc. )

Re-routing lines is one of those things that takes a lot of thought and planning then following through with a simplistic but almost "artfull application".

I really enjoy working with routing tubing, wires, and like items. Attention to detail really shines through on these things.

Adrenolin · 05-14-2009, 08:46 PM

OK so the tunnel is out..

For now I'll run the braided fuel line the full length since I have it but thanks for the warnings. The car is well sealed through out so hopefully no vapors make it into the cabin. If I do notice fumes later its not a big deal to run a hard line up from the pump to the bulkhead union.

Mark I just looked at my carb and dual fuel rail. There is no way to route it backwards due to its design as seen via the links. The Summit photo is upside down.. it fastens to the rear top corners of the carb, drops down and forward on the passengers side. This is why I was going to go with the 180* fitting basically to run it straight back beside the rail to the firewall.

I think now instead of the tunnel I'll take it to the passengers side into the inline filter then pressure gauge on the firewall, poke it through using a bulkhead union, down and back along the outside of the rails/connectors. I'll have to look tomorrow at the rear rails to see how I'll go through or under them to the pump.

The brake lines I'll run on the drivers side following basically the same route I guess. Again I'll have to crawl under tomorrow to really look at it.

JMD.. Those photos look super! What type of clamps are those holding the lines along the rails in the top photo? They must be bolted into the outside rail?

fakesnakes · 05-14-2009, 09:34 PM

Are you running a dual carb? Doesn't that Edelbrock carb only have one inlet? I think I am confused!

fakesnakes · 05-14-2009, 09:37 PM

Oh, never mind, I see. Summit says it is a single fuel inlet, but if you look in the instructions it shows a dual inlet.

67mustang302 · 05-14-2009, 09:38 PM

A couple things to consider.

First is that the ss braided line is still rubber type hose inside, and over time will deteriorate, whereas a hardline won't. If you run full ss braided plan on replacing it every 5-10 years. That means that you'll also want to route it in such a way that it's easy to replace, but also away from hazards.

Which is number 2, keep it tucked up away from the road, and sure as hell don't run fuel line through the trans tunnel. The first time you lose a u joint or if a bracket on the line comes loose, you risk going up in a giant fireball since you'll have an open line to the tank and no way to shut it off(unless you run a pump just outside the tank).

You might want to just keep the braided line on hand and run hardline back through the stock location, and use some of the braided for the engien compartment. It can handle a large enough fuel line to provide most street cars with all the fuel they need, 1/2" is freakin HUGE for fuel line. Also keep in mind that the od of hardline is smaller than the od of ss braided for the same id, in other words a 3/8 hardline will occupy less space than a 3/8 ss braided and will therefore be easier to fit/route.

JMD · 05-15-2009, 12:21 PM

The clamps are home made from 1" x 1/8" strap bent into a 90, the clamps are just the rubber lined generic clamps available at NAPA & Home Depot... They ate attached to the frame with 1/4" bolts threaded into "rivet nuts". (Blind installation)

I was thinking about some "fancy clamps" but the nice ones just cost more than I am willing to pay, mainly on the principal of the matter.

While I can't say that "I know", I think your hose will work fine and last a good long time, and like you say, f it, if you need to change it later you can...

Over the years I have learned a little about working on cars, here are two tidbits... Assuming REASONABLE effort and skill, and your car is not a "garage queen"....

1. Most things you do to your car will last for as long as you own MOST of cars you will ever have.....

-AND/OR-

2. If you keep the car long enough, you will WANT to re-do stuff you did "years ago" anyway.

Do things right, but when working on cars few things are "forever"....

--Oh yea, if you use the soft line, plan on clamping it up about every 12 or 14 inches. I ended up putting in about twice the support I had originally planned...