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Any advice or options, dont want to pay a fortune but I want something that will shift alot smother and easier than the T10 with the Hurst Competion Plus for my wife and daughters.
I want to put in the late model T5 or Tremac and if there is a "how Too" please let me know
Thanks
Bernie
562-884-0788
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What kinda power will it need to hold and what kind of driving? The T5 will shift better than a TKO, but the TKO's still shift pretty nicely. The TKO is WAY stronger than a T5 though, and pretty much a must for a high powered, aggressively driven manual car, or a T56.
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Who cares how much horsepower it has, all that matters is how fast it goes!
13.20's with 2.25-2.30 60's, 40+ year old suspension sucks!
Best trap 107.11mph, we'll see what the new intake/carb setup does.
12.80 at 110.5mph NHRA DA corrected
All the T5 trannys look the same. They have a tag on them and the number can be referenced to this chart for its rating. You will want to look for one with a high torque rating (300 or better) . http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...p/index2.shtml
The World Class is the correct one. It also uses automatic transmission fluid. A good check is to also open the drain plug and make sure it had ATF in it. If it is 80 weight gear lube, they are trying to sell you a NON World class T5. WALK AWAY QUICKLY
Your auto drive shaft yoke WILL fit the T5. The drive shaft will probably need to be shortened some to have .750 to 1.000 inch OF FREE PLAY. Too little and you can wreck your tranny or break the U joint and too much will cause vibration. Shorten/balance and rebuild cost $150. CHECK IT BEFORE YOU CUT IT. I decided to go with a Coleman Aluminum drive shaft from Streetortrack.com and it was 299. I have no vibration problems.
A T5 yoke has the same spline count but the part that slides into the transmission is shorter. It does nothing for the 1 inch freeplay your driveshaft needs.
Consider using a T5 bellhousing and the flywheel WITH THE CORRECT IMBALANCE so you can use a 10 1/2 inch clutch. you will also need a late model TO bearing, clutch fork, late model starter and block plate
You can use the old bellhousing but you will need to modify it. You will need a 2"x1"x1" aluminum or steel block and also the fulcrum (the piece the clutch fork pivots on) out of your early bellhousing. Mustang suppliers sell it for about 40. You can then use your old clutch
The T5 mounting bracket is needed because the the mount is about 1 inch back and the old mount wont line up. I read of 1 person modifying the old one to get it to work but he spent a lot of time doing it.
Also change out the front Bearing Retainer to a steel unit. Also change out the Tail Shaft Bushing and Seal. Both are easy to do BEFORE you put it in the car. Here is an excellent write up I used: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2.../t5/index2.php
Good luck
Ron
__________________ Ron http://chris66dad.tripod.com/
A code 66 coupe
289 4v, Roller Rockers, Electric fan
Performer & 650 Edelbrock
MSD ignition
Tri Y into 2.25 Shelby side exhaust
T5 conversion
Hydraulic clutch
CSRP Disks
just as 67m302 says, depends on the power you're making. anything above 300HP/TQ with constant brute driving I'd stay away from a T5.
I have a T5 now and it makes me smile. The change is quite easy
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1964 1/2
302ci, Edelbrock RPM heads and cam, 650 speed demon, Long Tube headers and Flowmaster 40s
Quick Performance Racing 9" rear, Moser axles, 3.5:1 trac-loc from FRPP and T5 transmission.
CSRP disc brakes front and FRPP discs back. http://www.gascc.ie
The Tremec T5 and the Ford Racing T5 can handle more than 300 hp. I think the Ford Racing one can handle 330 or so ft/lb torque. Its really the torque numbers that can tear up the transmission.
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