You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
So if I read that right that kit comes with bearings, pistons, rings, cam, oil pump and other stuff? All for 300?
Wow I didnt even think you could buy a cam and maybe 1/2 a bearing set for that price. Is this stuff that crappy or do other places way over charge OR is that about normal price?
Thanks
-Gun
__________________
Masters of Industrial Technology intelligence thats why I own guns made to drop elephants.
So I havent started her since Thursday, and I felt guilty letting my car sit there that long with no action, so I figured Id give it a start and see if there was any difference. I started her up about 5 minutes ago, and the pressure went up to 40psi...stayed for about 5 seconds, then sank to 20psi, then stayed there for about 5 seconds, then shot back up to 40psi for a few seconds, then down to 10psi and slowly down to 0.
The reason I bring this up is because Im curious about these spikes in pressure. Why am I getting pressure at first? Why does it then lose pressure, and regain pressure, and lose it again?
Its strange to me, but if anyone could shed light on the way this stuff works, that would be cool.
After reading this, i would pull out the engine and give it good check-up. After all, it's your daily driver. You don't to breakdown on the highway, at least don't let the damage get worse.
I'm currently rebuilding an 5.0 HO out of an Lincoln mark 7 ,that's supposted to go in my 70'er project car. (mustang coupe) Allthough the engine ran like a spurring kitten, i decided to tear it up an check it out. (also to clean and paint it) This was the right thing to do, cause the bearing are bad, not completely, but they will not last for long. It needs new bearing and the crank needs to be grinded.
Im embarrassed yet relieved to say that my problem is half way solved. What was the real problem you may ask? Low oil. When my car was hot, I would read oil on the dipstick cause of small amounts of oil being circulated through the pan and ****. But when the car was cold, I was reading no oil. I didnt know this because I kept checking the oil with a warm engine or the car running.( I dont really know the technical reason I was reading oil while hot, but not while cold, but thats what was happening). Added 3 quarts of cheap oil and my pressure is fine. Oil change coming soon.
Now the second part of the problem...where did this oil go? Well, Ive been having a leak around my distributor shaft for a while now. Im a dummy, so Ive been mopping it up, but never digging in to why or how it was leaking. Lazy, huh? The oil would leak somewhere around there (Possibly from the intake or distributor shaft, maybe a bad gasket) and pool up in the crevices around it. Over time I could see how this could add up to alot of leakage. Im going to clean up the area and find the leak, and fix it.
But shes back up and running, and its a little embarrassing that such a simple thing caused so much chaos in my life.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company