You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
302, mild cam, edelbrock torker 2 intake, edelbrock performer carb 1406 600cfm, stock exhaust headers, dual 2 1/2" exhaust w/ h pipe, always running premium and we're at 7200' elevation.
I know the stock exhaust headers are holding me back, but until I can find better ones that won't require modifying or moving around my exhaust system, they'll have to stay on. Anyway, the car runs really rich, lots of soot in the tailpipes and that running too rich smell. It also seems to be a bit weak. It runs fine, sounds good, but the acceleration is a bit average and it won't really squeal the tires. I know I'm not going to get a real strong change out of rods and jets, but I'm hoping it will at least reduce fuel consumption.
Right now the carb has all the stock rods and jets (.098 jets and 075x047 rods), and I've got the calibration kit for the carb for the additional rods and jets. Looking in the manual for the carb I'm eyeing 1-2 steps leaner in setup for both power and cruise, which will put me about step 7 or 12 on the charts. Is that a good idea, or should I be trying something else? As for the secondary metering, I've got no idea.
I'm not horribly knowledgeable about this aspect of a carb, so I'm not sure if that's about the right amount to step down, too much or too little, so I figure some of you here will know. Thanks!
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
start with 7, 12 might be necessary due to your elevation. I would highly suggest contacting edelbrock tech line who are very supportive and knowledgable. They helped me.
----> I know I'm not going to get a real strong change out of rods and jets, but I'm hoping it will at least reduce fuel consumption.
for me it made a hell of a diffrence. my 302 with stock edelbrock ran like a lazy dog and with a bit of jet & rod changes it's a screamer now. Mine was too rich as well.
I measured with lambda and A/F metering, but generally seat of pants dyno and nose should help dial in, definetly check plugs
As for your change. sure go ahead with setting "7" and see what it does for you.
it's a smaller jet and smaller rods. so it will generally be more lean.
and once you checked on that definetly try as well the "12" after, as this is only a rod change (back to the ones that were originally in there), which can be done in less than 5 minutes. This will cause to further lean out the cruise.
PS: with that mild cam you might have to change the spring as well. with the kit you get 5 different ones. what vacuum are you running at idle?
__________________
1964 1/2
302ci, Edelbrock RPM heads and cam, 650 speed demon, Long Tube headers and Flowmaster 40s
Quick Performance Racing 9" rear, Moser axles, 3.5:1 trac-loc from FRPP and T5 transmission.
CSRP disc brakes front and FRPP discs back. http://www.gascc.ie
Your real issue is the single plane manifold on an engine that doesn't have enough cam or flow for it. What is your vacuum at idle? The 1406 is a economy tune out of the box. I think you are probably running with the rods in the up (rich) position most of the time (insufficient vaccum to keep them down). You can try a weaker springs since you have the tunning kit (start with the weakest) and I would do that before you change rods/jets. It takes about 5 minutes. That may help, but you need either a performer or performer rpm dual plane intake to match the rest of your set up.
__________________
Mark
RCR GT40 Mk1
FFR Daytona Coupe (sold, sniff)
1968 GT500KR (clone)
1966 GT350 (clone)
1967 Mustang convertible (unmolested so far)
Hey, my whole life is a fake!
I agree with fake, the single plane is an issue, as are the springs. The stock 7" springs are good for a strong stock motor, but not for anything with an aftermarket cam. At idle they tend to pop up, dumping too much fuel into the motor and further dropping vacuum. Try the 3" springs and #7 tune and go from there.
__________________
Tad H.
'67 Fastback
331 stroker
Probably should have mentioned, I don't have any specialist tools to measure vacuum, timing or air/fuel or anything like that, so there's no telling what those are running. I can tell by the smell and the soot that coats the exhaust pipes and tips it's running too rich.
As far as the intake, I'm aware it's a problem, but it was put on the car some 15+ year ago by my great uncle who got the car running nicely for my mother out of college. We don't know specifically what cam is in the car since he's not around, but we're fairly certain he tried to match the cam with the intake. I'm not keen on swapping the intake really, but it is on the list of things to deal with when the engine is overhauled some time.
As things are now I'm working 9 hours a day for the next couple days so this will hopefully get done this weekend if I don't have to work all day there as well. I appreciate the help, everyone.
it's not that i didn't mention the springs as well ;-) but ya. i missed the single plane intake ... a vacuum gauge you can buy at any car parts store for cheap money. sure you can try the different springs, but knowing is better than guessing
__________________
1964 1/2
302ci, Edelbrock RPM heads and cam, 650 speed demon, Long Tube headers and Flowmaster 40s
Quick Performance Racing 9" rear, Moser axles, 3.5:1 trac-loc from FRPP and T5 transmission.
CSRP disc brakes front and FRPP discs back. http://www.gascc.ie
You absolutely need a timing gun. Period. No way to tune a carb with improper timing.
I should mention it also had an electronic ignition installed 15 years ago with the intake and cam. Like I said, I'm not completely knowledgeable about carbs so I left out that information not thinking it mattered. Anyway, there are no problems with timing that I can tell, never had any problems with ping or knock, no hard starting or stalling that wasn't the fault of the old carb that's since been replaced, etc.
I do find it a bit funny I've gone into this trying to change the rods and jets, and now I've got to buy specialist tools and a new intake. Typical of these old cars.
Anyway, we'll see when I can get into this. 9 hour work days today through sunday, if I can get up early enough I may try either tomorrow or Saturday, otherwise it will be Monday when I get into it. I will get a vacuum gauge though, I know I've been lucky to get this far without one. I may pick up an air/fuel gauge and timing light if they aren't expensive.
A timing gun isn't a 'specialist tool.' 30 years ago, every garage mechanic had one, along with a dwell/tach meter. You can buy a cheap but reliable unit at any parts store, and you'll use it repeatedly if you plan to work on the car at all in the future. And until you get the gun on it, you don't know if the timing is right.
A vacuum gauge is nice to have, but isn't absolutely essential. Not an expensive tool, though, so if you're shopping you might as well get one An A/F gauge, however, is a specialist tool, and it will cost you. Kalli just bought an LM-2 I think, so he can tell you what his cost him.
You can probably sell that Torker II intake on ebay and recoup most of the cost of a new dual-plane intake.
__________________
Tad H.
'67 Fastback
331 stroker
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company
Edelbrock rod & jet combination questions
An A/F gauge, however, is a specialist tool, and it will cost you. Kalli just bought an LM-2 I think, so he can tell you what his cost him.
