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thanks a lot for all the feedback guys, I'm just trying to find a easy and budget build for that swap. But, check this out, I wonder what would be cheaper: finding an old 8.8 rear that I can use or getting something like this
The only real difficulty with the 8.8 swap is welding on brackets to mount the leaf springs, and that's really not that difficult. Other than that, it's all gonna work the same.
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Who cares how much horsepower it has, all that matters is how fast it goes!
13.20's with 2.25-2.30 60's, 40+ year old suspension sucks!
Best trap 107.11mph, we'll see what the new intake/carb setup does.
12.80 at 110.5mph NHRA DA corrected
thanks a lot for all the feedback guys, I'm just trying to find a easy and budget build for that swap. But, check this out, I wonder what would be cheaper: finding an old 8.8 rear that I can use or getting something like this
If you have to pay to have someone do the work on the 8.8", then the eBay deal is probably going to end up being even money. In other words, the cost would be the same either way. It would be easier to swap out the 8" carrier assembly, but you don't get the strength or efficiency of the 8.8".
If you can weld, are willing to scroung a few parts, and buy a few others, the 8.8" swap should be about 1/2 the cost of the eBay differential.
I see what you're saying. That 3rd member assembly on ebay I believe just drops right in where as the 8.8 does not. I've seen the ring and pinion installed and the whole pinion depth and ring backlash adjustments with shims, I dont think I'd be comfortable tackling that on my own.
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Originally Posted by Scott H.
If you have to pay to have someone do the work on the 8.8", then the eBay deal is probably going to end up being even money. In other words, the cost would be the same either way. It would be easier to swap out the 8" carrier assembly, but you don't get the strength or efficiency of the 8.8".
If you can weld, are willing to scroung a few parts, and buy a few others, the 8.8" swap should be about 1/2 the cost of the eBay differential.
you cant beat a 9", chevy guys convert them for their chevys, mopar guys convert them for their for their mopars, Short of a dana 60 which is a big power hog there is no stronger rear end made. The 8.8 is a great rear end but for later model coil spring cars. The 9" has more gear ratios and aftermarket parts available than any differential ever made.
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67 vert, 408 stroker 205cc TW heads, CI cust hyd roller,Dougs 1 3/4 try y's, global west neg roll,lentech aod...etc etc etc
The 8.8" isn't exactly lacking, either. And it's not like you need 50 options. The only real downsides, IMO, are the c-clip retainers (easily changed) and non-removable carrier.
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Tad H.
'67 Fastback
331 stroker
today i found a guy online that' selling an 8' 3rd member with 3.55 open gears. He has a buddy at a shop that can install a auburn posi unit in there for $400 or just leave it alone and sell me the diff for $150.
Now I keep hearing about the 8.8 swap all the time and how easy it supposely is but, i heard the same about the T-5 and that sh*t was a pain in the A$$ to do! lol
is there anyone that's actually completed the 8.8 swap? I would love to see some step by step instructions so i could get a better idea and sort out what I'm going to do
$550 for an 8" with Auburn setup it a smoking good deal.
If you had issues doing the T5 swap. Best bet would be to have someone setup an 8" carrier and swap it in for you. Just take them your old rear end.
The 8.8" swap, is slightly more difficult than the T5 swap, because of the welding, and the brake lines.
To get an idea of the swap, there is a write-up on the web page in the signature below.
The T5 swap took about 1/2 day. The 8.8" swap took a full day (including setup of the gears).
While there are a few short cuts (since you have your stock rear end), it's still takes some knowledge to get it right.
Good luck,
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