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They'll probably tick until they get hot enough to expend and seal. they have springs ?
NO springs. The upper flange is cut between ports so the tube (only one on each side) comes completely off when unbolted from the exhaust port.
From bottom-to-top; the one tube is bisected about 1/3 the way up from the collector. It's flared at the bisection, so the remaining 2/3 of the tube slides into it, approximately 1-2 inches.
Basically if the header assembly was bolted to the engine, in order to remove the bisected tube you'd unbolt it from the one port and slide that one complete tube right out, upward, and out of the engine compartment. To put it back on you'd reverse the process and slide it into itself, then bolt it up to the head. It's kinda trick. I can see how it would really help with a 4-speed setup and heck it might even clear rack/pinion and other setups.
Last edited by bwkelley76; 08-26-2009 at 01:00 AM.
It's coming along quite well but slower than intended. Customers come first and we only stay late a few days a week. I got the old trans out today and completely detailed and painted the engine bay (used undercoating/bedliner type coating on this one as it was pretty beat-up) It came out really nice! That stuff looks really good if you lay it down right, and it hides a LOT of imperfections, and it fills small holes, etc.
Removed the old trans and started getting the new stuff ready to install.As soon as I get the motor and trans bolted together I'm putting them in.
Threw up some after pics of the engine bay and the intake port-match job.
I had a set of those headers. Didn't use anything to seal them at the slip joints and never heard a leak out of them. You might want to try them without anything first and see what they do.
Installed all the accessories/serpentine setup, etc and added photos to post #2.
It came out VERY NICE! Everything fit perfectly, no shimming or anything, and all the pulleys lined right up. I used the March Fox-Body 351W PS and ALT brackets. (Note: I do have the 5.0 reverse rotation water pump, required for the brackets to line up correctly)
The only mod I had to make was due to the 100 amp alternator. I had to either relocate or elongate a bolt hole in the upper-most adjusting bracket for clearance of the huge alt case. I chose the relocation route for a cleaner look and I was able to thread the hole instead of using a nut on the back.
I took my time and it only took a few hours including the mod to the bracket.
Easy, and quite possibly the best serpentine brackets available for 351W. Hands-Down. Only cost $160 for both sides and totally worth it, and they get rid of the automatic tensioner. I already had the march 5.0 under-drive pulley set (can't remember price) and a 62" serpentine belt right off the shelf worked perfect.
Thanks! It's coming along nicely, just a lot more work than planned and I keep uncovering mistakes from the prior owner/builder. I'm on the fence regarding how "nice" the car is, lol. I kindof bought the car already resto-modded so I'm having to redo a lot.
It's different when you own it and know where all the "flaws" are. It's a pretty decent car though, I wont argue. Definitely all-there and workable. Someday I'd really like to redo the paint and body and suspension, etc, and do some things better.
The engine bay was like swiss cheese, holes everywhere. I've had to patch a few and decided to reuse some existing holes for my own needs, etc. The car doesn't appear to have any rust issues and the underneath of the car is all undercoated and reasonably clean. The body has a little bondo here and there and the paint was a cheap job, definitely could have been better, and the driver's fender and door need some attention and lining up. ..Little stuff but it all adds up.
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